[Ultrascott]

You could always go to the old school way of putting the meter in line with the negative battery cable and pulling them one at a time. Are you close to Kentucky ? I could find it for you

 

[Trixie11]

You could always go to the old school way of putting the meter in line with the negative battery cable and pulling them one at a time. Are you close to Kentucky ? I could find it for you

That is exactly what I did for all of the blade fuses. Couldn't find anything. That leaves the j-case disasters and that came to an abrupt end on my first fuse-pulling-attempt as I described earlier. Can't get them out without breaking them. Thus my thinking there must be something somewhere online saying how to do the voltage-drop on the J-cases so I wouldn't need to pull them.

If the car wasn't in brand-new condition with 17k miles on it and I hadn't spent the last several months going over every square inch of it and seeing how perfect everything looked - I wouldn't be so pissed off about this. Every thing I get involved with turns into a disaster, so I KNOW that if I take this car to the dealer, it is going to turn into a long, drawn-out, catastrophically expensive nightmare and will probably not ever get fixed anyway. What I'd really like to do is find someone with a scanner that could at least read the codes. My latest trip to the auto parts store the guy left me more puzzled, more worried and with more questions than when I arrived. Said there was something wrong with the current being generated but that it wasn't the alternator nor the battery.

 

[RIT333]

Try another auto parts store. No offense, but sounds like the one you went to saw you were a woman, and tried speaking gobbly hook because he didn't know anything.

Where do you live ? Maybe someone on the forum is near enough to give you some free help.

 

[Trixie11]

I have gone to 2 Autozones and 2 Advance with no answers from any of them. Another thing I am wondering about is : Is there some computer/software reset/error/glitch that happens to these cars when you disconnect the battery when replacing a battery? Way back when this all started, I read a few things bout how you have to keep the car hooked-up to some sort of power supply or the computers will get messed up, but I thought that could not possibly be true - so when the first battery died, at that time I just thought it was because it was 3 years old but in hindsight, I don't know if that problem was the same one I have had with the next 2 new batteries - nor do I know if that whole thing about keeping the car connected was true or not - or could be related to the issues now. I will be pissed if after 9 months of trying to solve this, I end up at the dealer and find out it was some software thing that only GMC dealers can provide/fix.

 

[Colt Hero]

I would definitely try the Meter in-line and start pulling fuses ... even if you destroy them! You’ll probably get the hang of it by the 3rd or 4th fuse ... and only have to replace the 3 or 4.

Take a good picture before you start.

 

[Trixie11]

Well lets say that I start pulling all the J-cases one by one and find out it is the ABS module circuit or some other module or something else controlled by the BCM. Won't that mean that I will have no choice but to head to the dealer since they'll be the only ones who can fix a problem with those computers? I mean, I had hoped that leaving the car without power for a day or two would reset anything that could be fixed by resetting it and I am assuming that a problem with the car's computers requiring a software update or replacement isn't something just anybody can do themselves.

 

[Colt Hero]

@Trixie11 : One step at a time. Let’s see what you find with the inline Meter, pulling fuses one at a time.

Maybe you should buy some spares up-front so you’ll be able to immediately replace the damaged ones. You only want one fuse at a time pulled out.

You don’t think using the Channelocks or “Water Pump” Pliers will allow you to remove the Fuses without destroying them? I think you should be able to get the hang of it. You just need the teeth of the Pliers to grab very squarely at either end ... like in the video!

By comparison, the worst thing you could do is to use something like needle-nose Pliers because the teeth will be at a bad angle when you apply pressure. That’s how you can damage them. But with the “slip joint” Pliers you can grab it very squarely ... and then just apply the minimum pressure to be able the start slowly rocking the Fuse back and forth until it pops out ... just like in the video

 

[RIT333]

Trixie - you don't have to give your address, just a city where you live, and then maybe someone in your area may offer to give you some help. After spending 9 months on this problem, is sounds like a second set of eyes may be helpful. If you want continue on your own, so be it. It may take you another 9 months.

I think that Colt had offered up a procedure to follow, but you seems to be resisting his advice. He is very knowledgeable and is offering free/educated ideas. Why not follow them ?

 

[repairman54]

A full scan of all 4 code families is needed. Part store scan is not comprehensive enough to point out any module issues or system communication issues if you have any.
Without a full system scan first it's all just a guessing dart throwing contest. Scan gives a direction to focus at. This way you know is it electronic or basic electrical issues.
Any make or model today are computers on tires, and electrical issues require a higher skill level with high level scan tools that the average DIYer may not have unfortunately.

 

[Ultrascott]

While it is always a good idea to get a more thorough scan performed, a scan tool will not show you a parasitic draw.

 

[Trixie11]

There is a significant voltage drop across the large 80-amp EPS mega fuse. How can I convert this into amp-draw? It is a problem with the EPS that would be the most likely explanation of all the problems but when I found 12v on both sides of this fuse, I figured it was something else. I am currently going through all the fuses looking for any drop and soon I will get to the J-cases - which I have no idea and will just guess that touching the two silver things on the inside of them is the way to do this but who knows. It is the best kept secret on the internet.

 

[Colt Hero]

@Trixie11 : You've got the Meter set on AMPs/Current (DC) ... with a scale up to 20A, right? You're looking for a significant drop in Current when you pull each Fuse.

 

[RIT333]

For whatever reason, she seems to be resisting some educated advice. With this, she will likely be chasing down this problem for another 9 months. Human life can be created in a shorter period of time !

 

[Trixie11]

@Trixie11 : You've got the Meter set on AMPs/Current (DC) ... with a scale up to 20A, right? You're looking for a significant drop in Current when you pull each Fuse.

That is precisely what I did for the amp-draw test. I have moved on to the voltage-drop test. It is likely that either the ABS module or the EPS module or both are bad. I am pretty much at the point of giving up. The original reason I started this internet search and all the hundreds of hours online on every website and forum known to man was to find an answer/explanation/diagnosis/TSB so I wouldn't pay hundreds or thousands for what was a quick and easy $10 fix that anybody could do. I have not found that. So the end result is probably something I cannot repair myself anyway. This is just one of many many many ongoing disasters I am dealing with and I am dealing with all of them within parameters, restrictions and limitations that nobody would believe or understand. When I found the existence of "TerrainForum", I thought for sure someone would have had my exact issue and the solution I am searching for. That hasn't turned out to be the case.

 

[Colt Hero]

@Trixie11 : Did you ever say you were seeing Battery-related messages in your Cluster? Things like "BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE" ... "LOW BATTERY" ... or "SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM"?

Was just looking through your Owner's Manual searching for what your vehicle considers a "Normal Parasitic Load" ... so you can report back with what you're seeing on your vehicle (and how far off it might be). It's not mentioned anywhere in the Owner's Manual, unfortunately!

There's also mention of the Electric Power Management (EPM) System (you had called it "EPS"??) ... where Voltage is constantly adjusted based on what the System thinks the current State of Charge is. This thing can actually increase Engine Idle to get more power out of the Alternator, or even turn OFF functions to save the Battery ("Battery Saver")! I didn't realize such a function existed! But I would think the only way it might damage your Battery is to inadvertently allow the Alternator to overcharge it ... (kind of like a bad Voltage Regulator) ... if it's even capable of that! Without my Shop Manuals handy, I don't know where it's located, or how to test it (or if this is a "Dealer-only" item ... it may very well be). Maybe someone else here can chime in with more information?

Also, in the Owner's Manual, there was a reference to the Ignition being left in the ACC/ACCESSORY or ON/RUN Position to kill the Battery. Now, I don't believe it's possible to leave the Ignition in either of these states with the Key removed, but maybe there's an internal issue with your Ignition Block that somehow makes this possible. This problem you're having is so weird that it wouldn't surprise me because it would be a "one-of-its-kind" failure. Maybe if you pull Mini-Fuse #32 ("Discrete Logic Ignition Switch") from the Passenger-Side Instrument Panel Fuse Block ... you might find a Current draw on that one ...

 

[RIT333]

Trixie - any update to your issue. Or are you stuck someplace with a dead battery ?

 

[Trixie11]

I got tired of driving around the block for 15 minutes every day. I disconnected the battery 2 weeks ago and have been driving an unregistered, falling-apart 2001 Chevy Cavalier with 265k miles on it leaking power steering fluid everywhere. I wanted to see what would happen to the battery's voltage when disconnected from the car vs the rate at which is drained while connected. This is just one of hundreds of ongoing disasters I am dealing with right now. I can't afford to fix it, can't get to and from the dealer if I have to leave it there and since it is more than likely a bad module, I wouldn't be able to fix it myself anyway even if I could afford the parts and had the part with me. So yeah -pretty much sums up my whole life right now. I thought for sure I would find an explanation or some known problem with this make and model when I started doing internet research a year ago, but I have (to say the least) fully exhausted ALL information online about any related issue and found nothing. If I mess around with the car any more, I am just going to break things, cause more damage and make things worse. That is what happens with every problem I attempt to make progress on. This ranks about 30-ish on the list of nightmares I am involved with.

 

[RIT333]

Well, if you get caught driving an unregistered vehicle, then you will have a new top priority to deal with.

I did ask you if you would tell us where you were located, and maybe someone from this forum would volunteer to help you out, but I guess you didn't like that.

It was also suggested that you get a battery tender to plug your vehicle into overnight, but you didn't like that either.

If you don't mind, maybe you could keep us posted of your progress, or lack of. This may be helpful to someone down the road.

Another possibility is to contact a local High School that may have a automotive shop class. You vehicle may be useful as a training exercise for students, and it may be done gratis.

While your solution may be a temporary fix, it may not be the most legal one.

Good luck.

Rit

 

[Trixie11]

You asked for an update. I gave you an update. It has nothing to do with what I "like". Desperate times call for desperate measures and what are options for one person are not options for everyone. I hope your life never gets as bad and out of control as mine is right now, but if it ever does maybe you will understand. I am the expert on my life. You are the expert on yours. Sometimes the only options available are all bad ones.

 

[Ultrascott]

You asked for an update. I gave you an update. It has nothing to do with what I "like". Desperate times call for desperate measures and what are options for one person are not options for everyone. I hope your life never gets as bad and out of control as mine is right now, but if it ever does maybe you will understand. I am the expert on my life. You are the expert on yours. Sometimes the only options available are all bad ones.

several have offered you help but you won't disclose a location so maybe someone close could come help you.i said i know i can fix it if you are close to paris ky but you repeatedly ignore the question of where you are located. i hope your bad luck turns around for you,i think most that are commenting are just trying to help.