I'm in the hunt too for the speaker wire colors.

Unfortunately, not much info on the '16's and newer models

Apparently, they changed wire codes and the info on here doesn't correspond

I plan on pulling the door panels off this weekend so I can check the wire colors when I install the bazooka bass tube in the family nox.

But to answer your question, because the Bluetooth and the ANC use the front speakers, I would tap the LOC into the rear speakers. Once we figure out the color codes - you can access them in the vehicle B pillar

 

But to answer your question, because the Bluetooth and the ANC use the front speakers, I would tap the LOC into the rear speakers. Once we figure out the color codes - you can access them in the vehicle B pillar

Word. I read somewhere to access the sub wires and tap into those? I also read the sub that comes in the Nox acts as a road-noise canceler.

 

Word. I read somewhere to access the sub wires and tap into those? I also read the sub that comes in the Nox acts as a road-noise canceler.

Yeah the factory sub in the 4cyl is for ANC - not music. Which means it doesn't carry any audio signal. Tapping into these wires won't work.

Previous years - you can simply swap the factory amps to activate the sub - but again, not sure if it'll work on the "16+ models.

 

The simplest thing to do is pull the panel off each of the rear doors and find the wire color connected to the rear door speakers. Those wires, in turn, feed into a harness you can find under the front door sill covers that also are easily removed.
You wouldn't even have to pull the rear door panels completely off. Just remove the necessary few bolts near and under the arm rest and start pulling the lower rear door corner.

There is a thread here on how to remove the rear door panels. There are not as complicated as the front door panels. Espeacilly the front driver door panel.

http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=11058.0

http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=4231.msg134618;topicseen#new

 

Hmmmmm, now I'm wondering if I should just replace the stock speakers and give up the sub.



whynotboth.jpg

 

So I pulled off the left rear door panel

Wire colors are brown (+) and yellow (-) at the speaker on my 2017 Equinox 4cyl.

Tapped in to those wires at the column and the amplified bass tube works great now.

Looking further on line / colors at the amp should (or could be) brown (+) and white/Brown (-)

Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to pull the harness out under the dash to verify.

 

So I pulled off the left rear door panel

Wire colors are brown (+) and yellow (-) at the speaker on my 2017 Equinox 4cyl.

Tapped in to those wires at the column and the amplified bass tube works great now.

Looking further on line / colors at the amp should (or could be) brown (+) and white/Brown (-)

Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to pull the harness out under the dash to verify.

Sweet! Thank you!

I ordered some RF R165X3 to replace the rears, and will test one out in replacement of the fronts. I'll see how to new speakers go, and if I'm not satisfied, I'll go ahead and add in the sub. I like bass, but sometimes my 12" Alpine Type R is just too much.

 

Never too much bass LOL

 

shallow mount Subwoofers

I have a new article on subwoofer shallow mount series products specially designed for cars in which have details of all compact specially design for cars.

 

this should be a direct plug in for you, it’s not listed in the application chart but i used on on my 2015 equinox and 2014 cruze (neither of them were listed either) from a friends experience at a big audio shop, it works with any gm that uses the 44 pin connector. even gives you remote power on for the amp wire colors changed after the amp for 2016 and on but all the wiring at the radio should be the same which is where this plugs in.


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Hey all, I have 2017 Equinox 2.4 LT with base 6 speaker system and have been wanting to add bass for a while. Reading here and elsewhere, learned that the factory sub is there just to provide low frequency ANC, and that swapping for the upgrade Pioneer amp doesn't work and is impossible to wire in (as I gather). So here's my successful hack to add bass to the factory sub, and keep ANC working.

The pic shows the harnesses and connectors that go to the factory amp pulled and being probed and attached to. What I learned looking at the sub, is that it has a dual voice coil. I stole one of the coils for bass, and left the other connected to the factory amp for ANC signal. From the green connector which has 4 wires going to the sub, I cut green and blue off the end, that is one voice coil. I confirmed this by feeding an audio signal into the wires and hearing it out of the sub.

Second, I got power, ground, and turn on signals from the *********** connector, red, black, and white. Last, I got one end of a front speaker with a signal containing full range audio and fed it to one input of an old Bazooka 6 inch unit. This is brown and on the other end of the green connector. Their wiring instructions say just connect one end to the high level input wire and don't worry about the other one. It must be referenced to ground somewhere. I assume the bazooka input is high impedance and a few volts amplitude. I set the bazooka to auto turn on sensing a signal originally, but that feature didn't function in my old unit so activate it via the white wire instead. I think auto turn on would be preferable.

So connecting power and the high level signal, the bazooka came to life and gave great bass, at low volumes which is my goal. I set the crossover and level controls, then removed the amp assembly from the bazooka, discarding the speaker and tube. The amp output is a pair of spade lugs on the board, those wires now go to the blue and green car factory sub voice coil I liberated. Voila, success. I hear good bass coming from the sub in the hatch area. I swapped the speaker spade lugs back and forth, listening for good bass, one way is out of phase with other car speakers and will sound weaker.

Last, tidying up the wiring, I slid the bazooka amp assembly into a cardboard box and just sat it in the space above the knee guard under the steering. I don't plan to crank the volume up a lot, although honestly it sounds pretty good turned up, it's not pro audio but it does add the missing bottom end I needed for regular listening. And I'm no longer grumbling to myself each time I open the hatch and see a sub that didn't actually make any bass! Driving before/after with the radio off, I can't tell any difference in engine noise.