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Will an Equinox go 300 thousand miles ???

139K views 90 replies 35 participants last post by  Diógenes Alvarado Sandí 
#1 ·
my equinox is a 2012 and turned 200,000 miles or 321,000 km today.

it is 4 years and 5 months old

it a 2.4 fwd that gets mobil 1 every 5k with a filter

I WANT AT LEAST ANOTHER 100K ....

please see pictures
 

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#2 ·
Very nice pics.... love seeing these pics. youre really racking up the miles!



Coincidentally, a friend of mine sent me a picture today... his S-10 turned 400,000 miles today. I believe its a 95.
 
#6 ·
It should go 150K. Just do regular oil changes with a good brand Dexos certified oil, good filters, every 4 to 5,000 miles or so.

Also, keep an eye on oil levels and any changes in engine sound in or out the vehicle.


the fact there are a few here now reporting well over 100,000 to 150,000 miles with the 2.4L even on 2012 models shows that not ALL 2.4L engines have issues.

This Forum tends to get so many posts from folks who come here only AFTER they have a problem and complain. So things are tilted and do not represent the norm. I see a LOT of 2.4L Equinox and Terrain on the road from 2010 to 2013 so they can't be all that problematic.

We are enjoying our 2015 Equinox LTZ with the Custom Chrome Lower Body Side Molding and Dual 8-Way Power seats . . . . . :cheers:
 
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#7 ·
I going to say, it will go as long as you are willing to take it. What do I mean by that? Let me explain:
I know both Honda guys and diesel guys (mostly Ford and Dodge). Both of these groups make the claim that their vehicles last forever. The diesel guys like to say that at 100K miles, the engine is just getting broke in. The Honda guys like to say "Man, this thing will last you forever!". Here is the kicker. Across both these groups of adamant supporters that their vehicle will last a life time, many of them are on their 2nd or 3rd engine, 3rd-ish set of heads and pistons from timing belt breaks, 2nd set of transmissions, ... the list really goes on.

So really, the car could last you a very long time, the question is really how far are you willing to take it or what are your limits? Personally, I'm aiming for about 150K miles where I'll trade it in.
 
#8 ·
Did 120K+ on my 2010 2.4 Terrain. Was getting a little uncomfortable as I do frequent trips of 400 miles or more, each way. I never abused the vehicle, did oil changes at 3k mile intervals, had timing chain repair done, but just didn't want to be on the side of the road waiting for AAA.

OTOH, had a 78 Mercedes diesel that saw 210K miles while I had it. Never had any engine work done and ran as good when I sold it as when I bought it 90K miles earlier. Kept service up to date on it too and always ran a fuel filter/water separator to sort out occasional bad fuel. I still see them on the road and am told they used that platform in Germany as taxis with easy 500K miles before any engine work.

I agree with Buggsy that virtually any vehicle can run 300K miles these days. The question is how much $ you have to put in it to get there. Major engine repair/replacement, transmission repair/replacements, major A/C jobs, electronics, can quickly add up to more than the cars value. That's when I draw the line and start the "quest" for something else in the driveway. But yep---you can get there if you want.
 
#9 ·
JayTee2014 said:
It should go 150K. Just do regular oil changes with a good brand Dexos certified oil, good filters, every 4 to 5,000 miles or so.

Also, keep an eye on oil levels and any changes in engine sound in or out the vehicle.


the fact there are a few here now reporting well over 100,000 to 150,000 miles with the 2.4L even on 2012 models shows that not ALL 2.4L engines have issues.

This Forum tends to get so many posts from folks who come here only AFTER they have a problem and complain. So things are tilted and do not represent the norm. I see a LOT of 2.4L Equinox and Terrain on the road from 2010 to 2013 so they can't be all that problematic.

We are enjoying our 2015 Equinox LTZ with the Custom Chrome Lower Body Side Molding and Dual 8-Way Power seats . . . . . :cheers:
Just curious, what do you mean by "even on 2012 models"? My research revealed 2010-11's were the most problematic and the 2012 LEA I4 had some improvements done with the fuel pump and timing chain, but the pistons and rods were not upgraded until 2013. It is pretty obvious that the majority of the 2.4's engine problems after 2011 are from not changing the oil frequently and going by the OLM...which I know is bogus. I have 3000mi on this oil change, not a drop of oil consumption(49,000mi), and the OLM still show 84%, which is crazy. At this rate I will have 12-13,000mi before the OLM says to change the oil. Lol

If this engine won't go 200k with regular maintenance and service, then GM is doing something very wrong.
 
#11 ·
MGMSEQUINOX said:
update.......

211,000 miles now ;D
1scls1z28 said:
Just curious, what do you mean by "even on 2012 models"? My research revealed 2010-11's were the most problematic and the 2012 LEA I4 had some improvements done with the fuel pump and timing chain, but the pistons and rods were not upgraded until 2013. It is pretty obvious that the majority of the 2.4's engine problems after 2011 are from not changing the oil frequently and going by the OLM...which I know is bogus. I have 3000mi on this oil change, not a drop of oil consumption(49,000mi), and the OLM still show 84%, which is crazy. At this rate I will have 12-13,000mi before the OLM says to change the oil. Lol

If this engine won't go 200k with regular maintenance and service, then GM is doing something very wrong.
MGMSEQUINOX said:
update.......

211,000 miles now ;D
Good to hear! Happy Motoring. ..
 
#12 ·
Will it go 300,000 miles? Of course it will.

Will it go 300,000 miles without a major repair? Unlikely - especially one of those I-4 engines.

But, you know, anomalies exist, and your vehicle could be that one.

My question is: how does one drive 50,000 miles per year? I drove 30,000 miles per year, 3 years in a row, in my '89 Colt/Mitsubishi (1.5L 90 HP engine), back in '92-'94, and it felt like I was living in my car! That little engine, BTW, went 255,000 miles with *no engine work whatsoever* (so this is why I say any engine should be able to reach 300,000 miles). Just oil changes, plugs, wires, etc. Now the original 4-speed transmission *did* start popping out of gear at ~165,000 miles, but I threw in a junkyard 5-speed for $300 and drove the rest of the way on that! That car was amazing!
 
#13 ·
We had a 1981 Plymouth Champ which is the same Mitsubishi sourced Dodge Colt.

It was ok, but gave grief with engine stalling with less than 30,000 miles. It got great MPG, but very sluggish and underpowered with an automatic. The spark ignition igniter module would fail. It would be running fine and then suddenly start stalling out. Or, once warmed up , if you stopped for fuel or at a supermarket, it would not start. If you waited for 30 to 40 minutes, it then would start and you might make it home.

This went on for several months in spite of trips to the dealer to track it down. Being an engineering tech I knew it was loosing spark and took a look at it even though it was under warranty. I removed the spark igniter module and took it into work where I could look at it. It was a monolythic device on a ceramic substrate mounted under the distributor cover. The problem was hairline cracks across circuit paths on the substrate caused by hot/cold cycling. It was a poor design for the location it was installed and subject to thermal stress.

I took it back to the dealer, told them what it was, and they still would not replace it because it was not failing when I drove it in. They would not even look at it. How could I drive it in if it failed and stalled out on the road somewhere? And, if I got it towed, by the time it cooled off on the trip to the dealer it would start and be fine again.

So. . .. I bought a new igniter module and $$$$ out of my pocket! Thanks MoPar. . . ! Only when I replaced it, I installed it with slip washers on one end so that any thermal stress would be relieved. It had room to expand and contract without stressing a ceramic substrate circuit. For the cost of a 5 cent washer the design problem was coped with.

Anomaly. . ? I think that the 2.4L I4 is no worse than other engines past or present in terms of troubles. It's just that here in the Forum and on the internet in general, most of what is seen are those who have had issues. Millions of the 2.4L I4 have been produced and sold and being happily driven. There are hardly "millions" with the troubles in spite of those caused by the introduction of gasoline Direct Injection.
 
#14 ·
An '80 Plymouth Champ (aka Dodge Colt/Mitsubishi Mirage) was my very first car. Didn't know anything about cars back then (1983), and I wouldn't learn much either because that used car ($2750, 35k alleged miles) was *so* reliable! Drove it to about 85,000 miles before it was taken out in an accident. Had that not happened, might've gotten 300,000 out of that one.

I sometimes wonder what Mitsubishi is building today. Don't see many on the road. Kinda surprised they're still at it because there just doesn't seem to be the same commitment.
 
#19 ·
all new wheel bearings.......bearing are about $90 a piece = $360

on third set of front rotors....set=100-120 so that is $360

pads for new front rotors.......$180

rear rotors original....replace pads 3 times..... $120

had to replace the exhaust cam actuator solienoid...... $50

had the fuel injectors cleaned at 180 k........no disassembly just chemicals..... $150

replaced fan belt at about 215 k.......was getting nervous about it braking......$25

replaced plugs at 160,000 ........$35

45 oil filters...........every 5k I buy them by the case.... acdelco $7x 45= $315

225 quarts of oil...mobil 1 full synthetic. 5 quart jug at wall mart ......25x45 = $1125

25 quarts of tranny fluid.....refill after drain is about 6 quarts 25 x $8 = $200

drivers door lock actuator....sometimes it worked ....sometimes it didn't...what a pain to do took me an hour ...$75

power window motor ....going up slow......even worse when cold weather is here........$50

4 low beam headlights.......4 x 15 = ...$60

4 air filters....every 50 k........4 x $30= $120

lug nuts rust and swell....found on ebay for $1 a piece......maybe 20 of those....$20

2 or 3 cabin air filters.... 2x 25? = $50

had zero work under warranty........0000000000000000000000.000000000000

lots of tires....maybe 3 sets of summers ...original set went like 97k.....bought same set only went 50k ...go figure 3x $600 = $1800

couple sets of snow tires as we get the white stuff here.....2x 600= $1200

have 2 sets of wheels...one summer set and one winter set....do my own tpms.

it is fwd and the snow tires are noisy but make a big difference

I did add it up but there is not that much there considering 227,000 miles grand total........$6295 .0277 cents per mile

car has never been aligned and the tires wear perfect.....I am old school ....not broke so don't fix it...

if you drove this car you would think there is 40k on it ....drives perfect.
 
#26 ·
MGMSEQUINOX:

Yeah, all that stuff you listed is just routine maintenance, so that's good. No major mechanical issues - which is surprising for that engine (but not for any other reliable engine).

How are you putting this mileage on? Are you taking some really long, routine trips - and that's where most of it is coming from, or is it just a long commute to work for a long period of time?

And when did this vehicle get put into service?
 
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