[RyanW]

So my 2005 Equinox has no recalls covering this from what I understand, but there is an inconsistent vibration at the pedal that happens once in a while when the vehicle is near a stop or getting close. It feels like the abs is being activated but the wheels keep turning as normal. You can feel it through the pedal and pretty much throughout the car, nothing too alarming but something isn't right and definitely not mechanical like rotors or pads. I was just wondering if this is a common ABS problem or anything else. Thanks for anyone that can help!

 

[RSchleder]

First thing I'd do is pull the codes. I'm also wondering, how do you know it's not a rotor/pad issue?

 

[RIT333]

Sounds like one or more warped rotors. I'd get it checked ASAP. A warped rotor can significantly increase your stopping distance. Faulty brakes are a major safety issue.

 

[fourmoremarine]

Sounds like one or more warped rotors. I'd get it checked ASAP. A warped rotor can significantly increase your stopping distance. Faulty brakes are a major safety issue.

I'll go along with the warped rotors....
Chevy shutter Just about every chevy I've had I had to have the rotors turned or replaced under warranty

 

[fourmoremarine]

So my 2005 Equinox has no recalls covering this from what I understand, but there is an inconsistent vibration at the pedal that happens once in a while when the vehicle is near a stop or getting close. It feels like the abs is being activated but the wheels keep turning as normal. You can feel it through the pedal and pretty much throughout the car, nothing too alarming but something isn't right and definitely not mechanical like rotors or pads. I was just wondering if this is a common ABS problem or anything else. Thanks for anyone that can help!

Take the fuse out for the ABS if it still does it, it's the rotors

 

[RyanW]

I know it's not the rotors because it only does is at very low speeds and only once in a while. I'm pretty sure the ABS is activating from a dirty or bad sensor, or the wheel bearings are bad.

 

[gar187er]

when the abs kicks in, youd know it if it did......its not a small vibration....lol....you would be fighting to push the pedal down....

 

[RSchleder]

Ryan-sounds like, in your mind at least, you have the problem diagnosed so I'd have the professionals take a look at it.

 

[Chevrolet Customer Svc]

So my 2005 Equinox has no recalls covering this from what I understand, but there is an inconsistent vibration at the pedal that happens once in a while when the vehicle is near a stop or getting close. It feels like the abs is being activated but the wheels keep turning as normal. You can feel it through the pedal and pretty much throughout the car, nothing too alarming but something isn't right and definitely not mechanical like rotors or pads. I was just wondering if this is a common ABS problem or anything else. Thanks for anyone that can help!

I would recommend taking the vehicle into your local dealership to be diagnosed. They should be able to assist you further and have a plan for addressing the issue. If you have further questions, feel free to contact me by email. Thank you.

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

 

[jdlewis]

Im have the same problem with my wife 05 and her's done it at slow or fast speed even does it when your foot is not on the brake!!my mom was think the same thing about the rotors. Which it could be the front. Rotors. But why would it do it even when the brakes are not touches. You can feel it throw the brake, gas or even steering wheel. It done it so much the ABS light and traction control light came on. So i went and had the back brakes replaced and still does it. The light came on only one time after brakes replace but still getting the Vibrating.


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[wtavcar]

If it does it even when not braking then you have to visit the usual suspects: wheel alignment, bearings (which should get checked during alignment), wheel balancing, bent rims, ball & steering joints (which would get identified during a proper alignment verification). Maybe even CV joints. If memory serves the '05 is backwheel drive. Dare I ask, are the nuts on the wheels all tight & torqued properly ??? .

If you want to rule out the wheels/tires, swap the fronts for the backs and go for a test drive. If it goes away you know where to look. If it is still there, go have the front end checked out.

 

[hyperv6]

First off stop thinking it is a warp rotor. Many people make a mistake and thing a rotor is warped. Read most Major brake FAQ Tech sites and they will back up what I will post here.

The issue that often happens is one of two things. One is car Rotor Thickness Variation or RTV for short. This is where a car will have a bearing or hub more than .002 out and it will wear the rotor in varing thickness around the rotor. The Rotor wobbles and will rub on the pads and wear it in the varied thickness. Many mistake this for warp. They cut the rotors and fail to address the hub and it comes back again and again after a few thousand miles.

The other issue often is where the pads are not seated or bedded in. This is where when the pads are installed you should perform a series of stops to help coat the rotors evenly with pad material. This prevenst the pad material from being uneven and creating a pulse in the pedal. It often is felt more at slow speed nearing a stop. The factory does not bed pads and too many good mechanics fail to do it too. Often one hard stop on a off ramp and then sitting with the pads clamped to the rotor at the light can make the pad material stick and start this issues. Some times you can take it out and make a series of hard stops and let them cool to clean it up other times it may take a light cut to clean it up.

While it is possible for a rotor to warp it is rare and difficult to do. Most Cast Iron will crack first or would have some real hot spot on the rotor before it happens.

I get to many brake training tech classes for work with companies like EBC, Hawk, Bendix, Willwood etc. They all teach the same thing and from what I have learned I have never had the pusle issue since.

I just installed a set of EBC red pads on my HHR today. They have a bedding compound on them that will seat or bed them in during the first 500 miles. They do a great job of making the pads and rotors work together.

The pulse issue has been a major problem for off Auto MFG since they went to thge sealed hub bearings. They are Ball Bearings vs the old Roller Tapers. They can be damaged eaiser and or wear out sooner since they have less surface rolling. They use them as they have less drag and increase MPG.

I am not sure if this is his issue but I would think one of these may be the problem. Or even a cracked/damaged rotor. Nearly all ABS issues will put on a light.

 

[jdlewis]

If it does it even when not braking then you have to visit the usual suspects: wheel alignment, bearings (which should get checked during alignment), wheel balancing, bent rims, ball & steering joints (which would get identified during a proper alignment verification). Maybe even CV joints. If memory serves the '05 is backwheel drive. Dare I ask, are the nuts on the wheels all tight & torqued properly ??? .

If you want to rule out the wheels/tires, swap the fronts for the backs and go for a test drive. If it goes away you know where to look. If it is still there, go have the front end checked out.

Well hers is awd!!!! It has brand new tire and they did a alignment when they installed the tires. She has not hite anything to cause a bent rim. As for nuts on the rims yes there tight. I don't think there is anything wrong with the tires them selfs. It is something in the front in for sure!!!!


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[jdlewis]

First off stop thinking it is a warp rotor. Many people make a mistake and thing a rotor is warped. Read most Major brake FAQ Tech sites and they will back up what I will post here.

The issue that often happens is one of two things. One is car Rotor Thickness Variation or RTV for short. This is where a car will have a bearing or hub more than .002 out and it will wear the rotor in varing thickness around the rotor. The Rotor wobbles and will rub on the pads and wear it in the varied thickness. Many mistake this for warp. They cut the rotors and fail to address the hub and it comes back again and again after a few thousand miles.

The other issue often is where the pads are not seated or bedded in. This is where when the pads are installed you should perform a series of stops to help coat the rotors evenly with pad material. This prevenst the pad material from being uneven and creating a pulse in the pedal. It often is felt more at slow speed nearing a stop. The factory does not bed pads and too many good mechanics fail to do it too. Often one hard stop on a off ramp and then sitting with the pads clamped to the rotor at the light can make the pad material stick and start this issues. Some times you can take it out and make a series of hard stops and let them cool to clean it up other times it may take a light cut to clean it up.

While it is possible for a rotor to warp it is rare and difficult to do. Most Cast Iron will crack first or would have some real hot spot on the rotor before it happens.

I get to many brake training tech classes for work with companies like EBC, Hawk, Bendix, Willwood etc. They all teach the same thing and from what I have learned I have never had the pusle issue since.

I just installed a set of EBC red pads on my HHR today. They have a bedding compound on them that will seat or bed them in during the first 500 miles. They do a great job of making the pads and rotors work together.

The pulse issue has been a major problem for off Auto MFG since they went to thge sealed hub bearings. They are Ball Bearings vs the old Roller Tapers. They can be damaged eaiser and or wear out sooner since they have less surface rolling. They use them as they have less drag and increase MPG.

I am not sure if this is his issue but I would think one of these may be the problem. Or even a cracked/damaged rotor. Nearly all ABS issues will put out a light.

I think it might be the front rotors they have some groves in them i need to get them turned. Or they could be passed the turning point might need to be replaced. As for the virbation it don't happen all the time it every once in a while. And the lights came back on today.


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[hyperv6]

Rotors are relitivly cheap anymore so if they are gooved I would replace them. Do not fool with the drilled or dimpled ones unless you like the look at they do not so any good other than look cool and cost more money. The slotted can help clean a pad from mud or debrie.

A good solid Bendix or other name brand is as good as you can get without putting on a larger rotor or brake system.

I stopped cutting and just replace them anymore. I also get them at cost too that also make them a no brainer to replace but even at retail the price is pretty cheap is you go stock replacment.

The Drilled, Slotted and Dimpled are good for profits. Years ago they used to drill them to out gas pads but the new pads are not organic anylonger and do not out gas. Also many race cars drilled to reduce the unsprung weight. THis is still one thing some race brakes do for things like Drag Racing. Most of you major race series will slot or have some kind of dimple for cleaning but they are all sold from the state of the art F1 brakes to NASCAR< Indy and American Lemans.

 

[hyperv6]

I think it might be the front rotors they have some groves in them i need to get them turned. Or they could be passed the turning point might need to be replaced. As for the virbation it don't happen all the time it every once in a while. And the lights came back on today.


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I think your thinking is correct If you have a light, I too suspect the ABS unit has an issue if you have a light. It will shake and buzz to some effect the car some are less noticable. But the light is key. As the cars get older and if your fluid has never beend changed the ABS unit can get dirt or rust in it from bad fluid. We all should change the fliuid but few do as problems are rare.

Also when installing pads we should not just push the piston back in on the caliper unless you open the bleeder. Most people just push them in and it can push dirt into the ABS unit. I am guilty on this too when I don't have someone handy and worry I will need help bleeding if I get any air in the line. Generally there are no issues but you run the risk.

It could also ber a sensor but too often they just go bad and send a light.

 

[jdlewis]

I think your thinking is correct If you have a light, I too suspect the ABS unit has an issue if you have a light. It will shake and buzz to some effect the car some are less noticable. But the light is key. As the cars get older and if your fluid has never beend changed the ABS unit can get dirt or rust in it from bad fluid. We all should change the fliuid but few do as problems are rare.

Also when installing pads we should not just push the piston back in on the caliper unless you open the bleeder. Most people just push them in and it can push dirt into the ABS unit. I am guilty on this too when I don't have someone handy and worry I will need help bleeding if I get any air in the line. Generally there are no issues but you run the risk.

It could also ber a sensor but too often they just go bad and send a light.

Yea i have push the in too!!!


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[RNOX]

So my 2005 Equinox has no recalls covering this from what I understand, but there is an inconsistent vibration at the pedal that happens once in a while when the vehicle is near a stop or getting close. It feels like the abs is being activated but the wheels keep turning as normal. You can feel it through the pedal and pretty much throughout the car, nothing too alarming but something isn't right and definitely not mechanical like rotors or pads. I was just wondering if this is a common ABS problem or anything else. Thanks for anyone that can help!

Sounds like a bad ABS sensor. You can still have this problem aznd have no ABS light. You need a mechanic with a good scan tool and measure the speeds of each wheel when you come to a stop. If one of the speegs is out of whack the senor is bad for that wheel.

 

[RNOX]

Have your mechanic look at the sensor holders too. Sometimes they crack and get out of alignment.
Sometime rust can mess up a sensor too and it can be cleaned
Worst case (I'm not familar with the 2005 set up) Is that the one of the "teeth" on the axle that are used for the ABS can have a problem. The abs ring has spaces between the teeth the the sensor uses to identify the speed the axles are turning at.