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puresqnut said:
Sigh.... I love these audioshops not doing their homework.

Have them connect to to front outputs and drop the back of the headliner and disconnect both microphones up there (ONLY THE REAR MIC'S). Good to go.

its the same for most all of the GM's - Tahoe, Surburban, Equinox, Captiva, Terrein, Caddy's etc
So I went back to the audio shop yesterday and had them disconnect the rear mic at the module and reconnect the fronts to the amp and it's back to having the same issue as before. :banghead:
The fronts sound like the ANC is still there. They sound pretty bad, sort of hollow with only high end and some low end sounds. It's like the mids are being cut out or muted. The shop said that is why they ran the fronts off the rear channel originally to get around what they believed was the ANC having that affect on the audio. They even pulled the #7 fuse which is supposed to be for ANC?

The front speakers sounded amazing when they were split off the rear channel signal (with the loss of blutooth and car sounds of course), so I know it's not an issue with the speakers. I am tempted to go pay a different audio shop to give it a once over but I have already thrown way too much money into this sound system with the amp and new speakers and I am fearful that may cause more problems.

Do you have any suggestions? Could they still be connecting it wrong? Is there a specific place in the chain that they should be connecting the fronts to the amp from to avoid this?
Thanks again for everyone's assistance with this.
 

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Chas said:
I don't have ANC in my Terrain either, but I'm wondering: Do the front speakers also play any noise cancellation for the ANC?
IIRC, all the stuff I've read always mentioned the cancellation tunes being played through the rear sub only?
I think it would have to use the front speakers depending on which stereo you have.
I can easily follow the ANC signal from the ANC Module to the Audio Amp.
Once it enters the amp my info does not show which of the 8 speakers the ANC signal uses to output.
You will have to put that question to somebody at least 1 level above me.

See direct quote from GM:

"On the base 6 speaker system, the subwoofer is not used for reproducing audio. The subwoofer is used only for producing the cancellation tones for the Active Noise Cancellation System.
On the uplevel 8 speaker system, the subwoofer is used for both reproducing audio and the ANC system tones".
 

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I just got mine installed. The hardest part for me was getting through the fire wall. I did remove the # 7 on the fuse box and found something interesting .. I bought this car used with about 30k miles on it. But noticed that there was several fuses missing .. most of them where spares but the others where #10 (Seo Batt) , #5 ( info TMNT) , #21 (Seo Rap) .. could not find any info on the forum or on the net for that matter .. anyone know what these are?
 

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Rod2016 said:
I just got mine installed. The hardest part for me was getting through the fire wall. I did remove the # 7 on the fuse box and found something interesting .. I bought this car used with about 30k miles on it. But noticed that there was several fuses missing .. most of them where spares but the others where #10 (Seo Batt) , #5 ( info TMNT) , #21 (Seo Rap) .. could not find any info on the forum or on the net for that matter .. anyone know what these are?
You didn't give the model and year of your vehicle so I'll give you the info for the 2014 Nox LTZ.
This is for the Instrument Panel Fuse Block.

#5 fuse is for the Driver and Pass., DVD Video Seatback Display.
If you don't have RPO (UWG) you won't need this fuse.

Fuse #10 and Fuse #21 are spares and not used.
 

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Ok, I've searched around this site, and the only pic I found that was close was from this thread. Unfortunately the wire colors don't seem to match up.

2017 LT 4-cyl, non-Pioneer system with touch screen (non-nav)

I looked behind the panel under the steering column and snapped this pic.




I'm pretty sure everyone is referring to the green plug on the left (going into a silver box), but I did not see any yellow or brown wires coming from it. The green plug on the right, however, does have yellow, brown, dark blue, and light blue wires. Does anyone know if they changed the layout, or where I should be tapping into? I have a PAC SNI-35 Line out converter, and it wants me to tap into both left and right speakers.
 

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jhubbz86 said:
Ok, I've searched around this site, and the only pic I found that was close was from this thread. Unfortunately the wire colors don't seem to match up.

2017 LT 4-cyl, non-Pioneer system with touch screen (non-nav)

I looked behind the panel under the steering column and snapped this pic.




I'm pretty sure everyone is referring to the green plug on the left (going into a silver box), but I did not see any yellow or brown wires coming from it. The green plug on the right, however, does have yellow, brown, dark blue, and light blue wires. Does anyone know if they changed the layout, or where I should be tapping into? I have a PAC SNI-35 Line out converter, and it wants me to tap into both left and right speakers.

Wire colours and pin locations are different on the 17's

LI tapped directly in to the door panel wires
 

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Default User said:
Wire colours and pin locations are different on the 17's

LI tapped directly in to the door panel wires
I was somewhat trying to avoid that, but that might be my best option. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Ok, I ended up pulling the trim back away from the B-pillar and splicing in there. I did it on both sides and used some speaker wire as extensions to the LOC. I did this on both sides, and will probably just hide the LOC under the area close-out panels in the trunk. This is the first step I've done in installing the whole sub-system, so I don't know if it works yet, but it should in theory. I've done this in other cars before, so I'm fairly confident it will be fine.

Here's a pic of where and how I spliced in.






I used quick-splices you can find at most parts stores and hardware stores. Did the same on the other sides with the light blue and dark blue wires.

Next up is running power wire, which has always been the bane of my existence.....
 

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Great thread! Very helpful to say the least.Question for whoever would know.....I plan to tap the low level inputs by the stock amp for a signal and also plan to tap the front speaker wires at the amp to avoid running new speaker wire to the doors.Question is when I do the tapping can I just unplug the harnesses from the amp?Will that affect door chimes,etc?If it would and I'd be advised to keep the harnesses plugged into the amp,would I then just cut the wires I need only and then plug harnesses back in?Hope what I am asking makes sense.
 

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Great thread! Very helpful to say the least.Question for whoever would know.....I plan to tap the low level inputs by the stock amp for a signal and also plan to tap the front speaker wires at the amp to avoid running new speaker wire to the doors.Question is when I do the tapping can I just unplug the harnesses from the amp?Will that affect door chimes,etc?If it would and I'd be advised to keep the harnesses plugged into the amp,would I then just cut the wires I need only and then plug harnesses back in?Hope what I am asking makes sense.
As you are seeing. . all the info is here if you search for it.

That said, about 2017, some wire colors changed from the factory amp so be wary of that.

All of what you want to know is here. Using Google search is best with differing terms within the Equinoxforum.
 

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As you are seeing. . all the info is here if you search for it.

That said, about 2017, some wire colors changed from the factory amp so be wary of that.

All of what you want to know is here. Using Google search is best with differing terms within the Equinoxforum.
I've probably read close to 50 threads on this subject already.It's just not that easy to find the exact info I need.It seems that PureSQnut is the most knowledgable about the wiring schematics,trouble spots,etc.Plus his build speaks for itself.By searching like you've suggested I have gained a ton of what I need,however there is still more to know before I begin the install in the spring.I'm suspecting that if I unplug the harnesses then I'll need to use dummy resistors on the unused wires to avoid long term damage to the radio.But I'm not totally sure yet.
 

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I've probably read close to 50 threads on this subject already.It's just not that easy to find the exact info I need.It seems that PureSQnut is the most knowledgable about the wiring schematics,trouble spots,etc.Plus his build speaks for itself.By searching like you've suggested I have gained a ton of what I need,however there is still more to know before I begin the install in the spring.I'm suspecting that if I unplug the harnesses then I'll need to use dummy resistors on the unused wires to avoid long term damage to the radio.But I'm not totally sure yet.
Yes, that is one of the best threads over all along with bandirector and a few more. I read the same you did about using balancing resistors as both protection and signal load. As you are finding, there are many threads and also variations depending on what stock radio an owner has as well as the model year.

Makes it difficult and cumbersome to recommend select threads and outright information based on a particular need.
 

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Alright guys. I’ve followed this whole thread. Ran the wire from the factory amp to a line out converter then to amp. Still getting nothing. Is their something I’m doing wrong??
 

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On a 2012 Terrain v6 with upgraded 8 speaker pioneer system. I have lost the sound to the 4 door speakers and tweets. I even swapped head units just ti make sure it wasnt bad. Anyone help out or have ideas??
 
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