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Thank you for all the information. I was a little confused on what the remote wire was, now I understand... I was assuming it went to an actual remote to control it and not the way the amp powers on.

I believe ill go the switch route, as my 5 year old may not like the back seat vibrating so much.

Just curious on the 100a fuse.. I've been told to use about a 30-40A one. Does it base off your sub/amp size... or on the gage of the power wire?


Thanks again
 

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wstadnick said:
Thank you for all the information. I was a little confused on what the remote wire was, now I understand... I was assuming it went to an actual remote to control it and not the way the amp powers on.

I believe ill go the switch route, as my 5 year old may not like the back seat vibrating so much.
If you're not aware, I'd recommend using the same white "remote" power wire lead for your switch. This way, the remote trigger for the amplifier will still go off when the radio is off. (Don't want the amplifier staying on when you leave the car if you forget to turn off the switch?)

wstadnick said:
Just curious on the 100a fuse.. I've been told to use about a 30-40A one. Does it base off your sub/amp size... or on the gage of the power wire?
1) The maximum fuse size for the power wire is limited by the power wire gauge.
2) Often, the installer will put a power wire of heavier gauge than necessary (numerically lower). This helps with lower voltage drop from the battery to the amplifier, which helps the amplifier eek out a few more watts (and maybe the amplifier will run a bit cooler = better reliability). But the amplifier current draw will not change if the power wire fuses are changed.
3) So finally, I'd recommend putting a power wire fuse rated a few amps higher than the total of all your amplifier fuses (as long as below the max of the power wire gauge).

Example: iIf your amplifier has 2x20amp fuses, your power wire gauge should be rated for at least 40 amps. Further, you could probably get away with a 40 A fuse in the power wire, but I'd recommend 50 (as long as the power wire gauge is rated for 50). 50 or 100 A in this case makes no difference - except if your power wire ever accidentally shorts to the body (ground), the 100 A fuse will allow for a bigger spark before blowing. So the 50 A fuse would be a safer choice.
 

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Well got everything installed. thanks for all the help, even wired it myself, which I've never done before, was pretty good learning experience.

Now I just have to fine tune the amp / line out convertor, and clean up a few of the wires and I'll be all set. Was a pretty easy install, the most trouble was the ground line surprisingly.

Will also be adding a switch to the remote wire, found the early morning ride in doesn't require a thumping bass.


Thanks all for the help.
 

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wstadnick said:
Thank you for all the information. I was a little confused on what the remote wire was, now I understand... I was assuming it went to an actual remote to control it and not the way the amp powers on.

I believe ill go the switch route, as my 5 year old may not like the back seat vibrating so much.

Just curious on the 100a fuse.. I've been told to use about a 30-40A one. Does it base off your sub/amp size... or on the gage of the power wire?


Thanks again
First of all congrats on the install.

Maybe I wasn't clear enough, but yes, as mentioned by "Chas" as well, I did hook up the remote wire to the "white wire" first than to the switch.

And my bad on the 100A fuse, I forgot that previously in my vehicle I had 2x 12" with a 2Ga wire, so anything than a 100A I blew, due to high demand of power. But I agree, something around 50A should be more than enough.

And yes, strangely, but to find an 18mm socket was the most difficult part for me as well to get the ground on the back seat bolt ;)
 

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Thanks, ya the 100amp fuse had by buddy a little puzzled, we went with a 30 amp fuse, as i'm not running a very big amp/sub.

I found a bolt under the stock sub that I was able to attach the ground to. As i'm debating removing the spare tire and putting the Amp and Capacitor under there I figured it was the best spot.

And I used the white wire and had no issues, added a switch to it so I can manually shut off the system when kid / morning commute happens.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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1LT said:
I just did an amp/sub install on my Nox yesterday. I will probly do a seperate write up on it here soon with some pictures. I have the I4 with noise cancelation and the stock sound system with myLink. The install went really well and it sounds amazing, with no problems with the noise cancelation at all.

I used an Audio Control LC2i line output converter. I tapped onto the rear speaker signal wires at the stock sound system amplifier which is behind the panel underneath the steering column. There are three wire harnesses that plug into the stock amp. The harness in the center with the green plug is where the speaker wires are. Pin #3 is brown left +, Pin 4 is yellow left -, Pin #9 is light blue (looks purple) right -, and Pin 10 is dark blue right +.
On the harness right below the speaker wire harness, you will find a white wire. This can be used for 12v switched remote wire.
How to: Location of factory amp 2012 Chevy Equinox

I ran a 4awg power wire from the battery to the back for my Precision Power Ion i650.1 amp. A good spot to get through the firewall is by a large bundle of wires that go through the firewall. There is a large grommet that these wires go through, and there is enough room to get a power wire through as well. It's tight spaces though, so you have to be kind of crafty. To find the bundle of wires I'm talking about, if you are looking at the factory amp, it will be over to the left and tucked up a little higher going right through the firewall.
I ran the power wire, speaker signal wires and remote wire down the driver side kick panels to the back.

Will post some pics and more detail soon.
I just had an audio installation shop put in an amp and wire it all up following 1LT's instructions on my 2013 Terrain SLE. It sounds amazing, but I've lost all of the vehicle noises and chimes (blinkers, etc.) and there is no sound when making calls using the vehicles wireless bluetooth.

Did they do something wrong at the shop or is this just an unfortunate result of bypassing the ANC using the line splitter?

Thank you for any help or information you could provide.
 

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Eqbrat said:
I just had an audio installation shop put in an amp and wire it all up following 1LT's instructions on my 2013 Terrain SLE. It sounds amazing, but I've lost all of the vehicle noises and chimes (blinkers, etc.) and there is no sound when making calls using the vehicles wireless bluetooth.

Did they do something wrong at the shop or is this just an unfortunate result of bypassing the ANC using the line splitter?

Thank you for any help or information you could provide.
Do you know where they interfaced the audio signal from. at what point of the signal chain?
 

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Re:

I would say they messed up some where, I wired my system myself. I just cut and capped the anc wires and everything works fine and sounds great

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

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puresqnut said:
Do you know where they interfaced the audio signal from. at what point of the signal chain?
They said to bypass the ANC which only runs on the front speakers and sub, they did what they called a full range audio installation where they utilized only the rear signal by using a line splitter and running it to the fronts as well. However, all of the vehicle noises and wireless bluetooth run thru the fronts from the stock stereo. so they were bypassed.
The goal was to completely bypass the ANC which was causing a hollow sound on the fronts, and had a noticeable loss of mid sounds.
Is there way to bypass the ANC and still keep front audio vehicle noises and bluetooth? or patch just the vehicle sounds back in?
Any ideas or suggestions/recommendations for a fix or work around for this?

Thanks a ton for your responses and help. I really can't thank you enough for the assistance.
 

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Eqbrat said:
They said to bypass the ANC which only runs on the front speakers and sub, they did what they called a full range audio installation where they utilized only the rear signal by using a line splitter and running it to the fronts as well. However, all of the vehicle noises and wireless bluetooth run thru the fronts from the stock stereo. so they were bypassed.
The goal was to completely bypass the ANC which was causing a hollow sound on the fronts, and had a noticeable loss of mid sounds.
Is there way to bypass the ANC and still keep front audio vehicle noises and bluetooth? or patch just the vehicle sounds back in?
Any ideas or suggestions/recommendations for a fix or work around for this?

Thanks a ton for your responses and help. I really can't thank you enough for the assistance.

Sigh.... I love these audioshops not doing their homework.

Have them connect to to front outputs and drop the back of the headliner and disconnect both microphones up there (ONLY THE REAR MIC'S). Good to go.

its the same for most all of the GM's - Tahoe, Surburban, Equinox, Captiva, Terrein, Caddy's etc
 

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puresqnut said:
Sigh.... I love these audioshops not doing their homework.

Have them connect to to front outputs and drop the back of the headliner and disconnect both microphones up there (ONLY THE REAR MIC'S). Good to go.

its the same for most all of the GM's - Tahoe, Surburban, Equinox, Captiva, Terrein, Caddy's etc
Any chance you've got pics of where to unplug the mics?
 

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BandDirector said:
Any chance you've got pics of where to unplug the mics?
It might be easier to access the front and rear mic wires at the ANC module rather than drop the headliner.
It is located in the front seat console, left side, just to the front of the shifter.
Pull the trim on the driver side and it's right there with one nut holding it to a bracket.

Rear mic pins at ANC Module:
+ Light Blue wire at ANC Module #7 (Signal)
- Light Blue/Black wire at ANC Module #17 (Return)

Front mic pins at ANC Module:
+ Pink wire at ANC Module #8 (Signal)
- Pink/Black wire at ANC Module #18 (Return)

Just a thought
 

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Front Mic needs to stay plugged in. Only disconnect the rear mic's.

I would have ot look and see if there is any photos I took of where the rear mic plugs are on top of the headliner. Most shops (mainly due to liability) disconnect in the headliner so that if they ever ned to be reconnected they can easily get plugged back in.
 

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puresqnut said:
Sigh.... I love these audioshops not doing their homework.

Have them connect to to front outputs and drop the back of the headliner and disconnect both microphones up there (ONLY THE REAR MIC'S). Good to go.

its the same for most all of the GM's - Tahoe, Surburban, Equinox, Captiva, Terrein, Caddy's etc
Looking at my 2013 Terrain SLE, it looks like there is only 1 mic in roof in the back and 2 possibly in the front up by the dome lights? Is the single mic in the back the only one I should have them disconnect or is there another I am just not seeing? Is there a reason to not have them touch the front mic(s)?
 

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Eqbrat said:
Looking at my 2013 Terrain SLE, it looks like there is only 1 mic in roof in the back and 2 possibly in the front up by the dome lights? Is the single mic in the back the only one I should have them disconnect or is there another I am just not seeing? Is there a reason to not have them touch the front mic(s)?
There is only 1 mic in the rear for ANC.
The approx location for the rear mic is in the center of the headliner, between the 2nd (center) and 3rd (rear) dome lights.

There is more than 1 mic in the front of the vehicle, but only one for the ANC circuit.
As per puresqnut's instructions, do not unplug the front one.
OnStar and your phone connection use their own.
The front ANC mic is in the headliner, near the sun visor on the passenger side.
This is why I suggested accessing the wires at the ANC Module, to keep the confusion down.
 

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rednox301 said:
It might be easier to access the front and rear mic wires at the ANC module rather than drop the headliner.
It is located in the front seat console, left side, just to the front of the shifter.
Pull the trim on the driver side and it's right there with one nut holding it to a bracket.

Rear mic pins at ANC Module:
+ Light Blue wire at ANC Module #7 (Signal)
- Light Blue/Black wire at ANC Module #17 (Return)

Front mic pins at ANC Module:
+ Pink wire at ANC Module #8 (Signal)
- Pink/Black wire at ANC Module #18 (Return)

Just a thought
Thank you so much for the advice and specifics for the ANC mics. I really appreciate it and am taking my Terrain back into the audio shop tomorrow.

With there being the two mics up front, one for the phone/bluetooth and one for the ANC, you had stated that I am to leave the front mic alone... Do you mean leave both the front ANC mic and the one used for the phone/bluetooth both alone entirely or should I have them disconnect just the front ANC mic and leave just the phone/bluetooth mic alone up front?
 

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puresqnut said:
Front Mic needs to stay plugged in. Only disconnect the rear mic's.

I would have ot look and see if there is any photos I took of where the rear mic plugs are on top of the headliner. Most shops (mainly due to liability) disconnect in the headliner so that if they ever ned to be reconnected they can easily get plugged back in.
I don't have ANC in my vehicle to try so I'm going with puresqnut's recommendation.
Possibly by disconnecting both will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code.
Talk to your stereo installer for his preference as the install will be his responsibility.

If it was me I would unplug only the back first, then check the overall sound of the unit, if chimes/blinker sounds work, etc.
If not satisfied you may have to get to the front.
Wish I could be of more help but I have never tried what you are doing.
 

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I don't have ANC in my Terrain either, but I'm wondering: Do the front speakers also play any noise cancellation for the ANC?
IIRC, all the stuff I've read always mentioned the cancellation tunes being played through the rear sub only?

Eqbrat, in the least - the audio shop messed up big time by getting the signal only from the rear speakers. I've tinkered with lots of GM sounds systems over the past decade and I've almost always seen warning chimes & etc being played through the front speakers only. I'd highly suspect the audio shop knew this too, but tried to cut corners by only tapping into the rear speaker outputs to save on their labor and materials, and try to blow you off. And I suspect they tried to disguise their sloppiness by blaming GM's ANC.
If you paid a fair price, definitely insist they fix this right! :banghead:
 

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Re:

dentonnox said:
I have the anc in mine and when I installed my sub I capped the speaker wires from the amp to the factory sub
That means the amp is still putting out to a non-existing load, the amp will produce an output signal and eventually to amp will fail because there is no load on the output, you'd be better off terminating the output into a load resistor so you don't blow the amp....
 
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