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Discussion Starter #1
Do you think it's too late to change this fluid?

2013 equinox 2.4l
Bought it about 12k miles ago, full maintenance records 3-4k oil changes from new. No transmission fluid changes have been done.

Looked at manual and says non severe transmission fluid is at 100k or 90k I forget.

So I was thinking I'm fine as It has never towed anything or lived in a hilly area and I don't live in an extreme climate. But now am seeing that the manual shouldn't have been followed and been done a lot earlier.

Do I take it to a dealership and ask for it to be done or is that asking for problems now it has so many miles with out a change.
 

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Did my 2015 AWD at 74,000 miles by the dealership two months ago because the maintenance schedule did not say when I should change the fluid under normal driving condition. I had the dealership do the transfer case and differential at the same time. Fingers crossed for peaceful upcoming winter months.

2013 maintenance schedule is 97,500 for normal driving conditions. If severe driving condition the transmission & transfer case should be serviced at 45,000 miles. If you have AWD the transfer case should be serviced at the same time.

I had the dealership do it because I don't have access to proper tools to do the transmission. I properly can do the transfer case and differential but...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did my 2015 AWD at 74,000 miles by the dealership two months ago because the maintenance schedule did not say when I should change the fluid under normal driving condition. I had the dealership do the transfer case and differential at the same time. Fingers crossed for peaceful upcoming winter months.

2013 maintenance schedule is 97,500 for normal driving conditions. If severe driving condition the transmission & transfer case should be serviced at 45,000 miles. If you have AWD the transfer case should be serviced at the same time.

I had the dealership do it because I don't have access to proper tools to do the transmission. I properly can do the transfer case and differential but...
I know it would be different here but do you remember the price you paid for transmission fluid change at dealership? Just so I can get a ballpark figure.
 

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Do it...it's just drain and fill 11mm bolt on the bottom the an overfill on the side 11mm u don't even have to Jack it up no filter or anything.Dealership is like 450 bucks haha..u would have problems if u don't it will be sludge. In small passages and the leading cause of auto transmission failure.... Sound like it needs dyalisys.
 

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It used to be a rule of thumb that one either changes ATF at a lower mileage (40K miles, or example) or not change at all. New ATF will aggressively clean the transmission - an older or higher mileage transmission will have more material that will break loose and potentially accumulate in another (worse) location.
At 100K miles it's a gamble to do the first ATF change. It should have been done earlier IMO....
 

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I know it would be different here but do you remember the price you paid for transmission fluid change at dealership? Just so I can get a ballpark figure.
Including a coolant flush & wheel alignment I paid almost $900 CAD. Transmission flush was about $300, the differential and transfer case were around $150 each. I rather have the dealership using a machine to push out most of the old fluid inside the torque converter to get a fresh start instead of doing drain and fill three or four times. The cost for DIY may be less but I don't have to get on the floor three or four times. I do my own engine oil change because it only cost me slight over half of the amount that the dealership charges me. I use Mobil1 not the house brand that the dealership provides and I only hit the floor once every few months.

Christopherlompoc is right. The transmission is working hard nowadays, it is better to change the fluid more often or according to the maintenance schedule to keep them running reasonably smooth. Next week I have to do the same for my 2015 traverse. Another blow to where it hurts. Weather here is not very forgiving and a reliable vehicle is a must. Like the old saying ... Pay me now or later.

$300 for a transmission flush or $2,000+ for a transmission. :unsure:
 

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Do it . The drain and refill doesn't get all the fluid, only about half but do it if you want it to last.
I was surprised how dark the fluid was in my '16 at 45k miles, yours probably is pitch black.
Never, ever believe the normal schedule, we all meet at least one of the severe duty schedule items sooner or later and that one thing puts you onto the severe schedule.
I've gotten 200k miles out of several transmissions in the past and sold all those vehicles running fine.
Severe schedule is the holy grail of maintenance.
 

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I just drained and refilled the transmission fluid this past weekend on my 2015 @ 58,600 miles. First time since new. It is really simple to do at home. The drain plug is really close to the front, you literally don't even have to physically crawl underneath the car. I pulled it up on ramps and just laid down in front of it and was able to reach the 11mm drain bolt easily.

The dealer here charges $150 to do a drain and refill (not a flush). I bought 6 qts of Pro-Line GM approved Dexron VI full synthetic ATF and a long funnel to reach the transmission fluid filler neck for $28 total at Pep Boys. Used almost 4 qts to refill the transmission after draining. I am going to drain and refill it again in a month or so just to get out more of the old fluid. Next time I am at Walmart or Pepboys, I will pick up 2 more quarts of either Pro-Line or SuperTech Dexron VI since they are the same thing (both are manufactured by Warren). Then everything will be all set for the next drain and refill. All said and done, about $40.

Dropped off the old ATF for recycling at the local AAP.

I am not a big fan of "flushes". There are too many horror stories of flushes potentially dislodging larger debris and embedding it where it shouldn't be within the transmission. The drain and refills should be enough to get most of the fluid refreshed. The original fluid that came out was really not that bad at all considering it was 5.5 years old with almost 60K miles on it. It was super dark, yes, but still identifiable as red in color and still super slick and not gritty at all. The transmission shifts noticeably smoother after the drain and refill. It was surprising that the difference was so noticeable. I didn't expect such a dramatic difference.
 

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I just had trans fluid flush, brake fluid flush and wheel balancing done for $450 CDN at my GM dealer (not including our GST tax of 13%)

I think the trans fluid flush was around $230 of the total cost.
 

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I just did mine last weekend. First time in two years! Measured 5 Qts came out, so that's what went back in. Used ACDelco Full-Synthetic (#9243). Bought (6) Qts for $6.05/qt through an Amazon seller. Transmission hasn't locked up yet! LOL!
 

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I did my 3.6 V6 at 80K, bought it with 79K on it. Don't know if it was ever done before. The fluid was dark but didn't smell bad or seem terrible.

Just had the dealer drain and fill the transfer case and rear differential, rotate tires, check the brakes, fluids, belts and check over for winter. Cost me $114. I thought that was a great deal.
 

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I did my 3.6 V6 at 80K, bought it with 79K on it. Don't know if it was ever done before. The fluid was dark but didn't smell bad or seem terrible.

Just had the dealer drain and fill the transfer case and rear differential, rotate tires, check the brakes, fluids, belts and check over for winter. Cost me $114. I thought that was a great deal.
This is a good deal.
 

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Just had time to check the invoice. The transmission flush was $249.95; the transfer case @ $119.95 and differential @ $129.95. Of course, tax not included. The tech used 12L to flush & fill the tranny. 2L of lube each for the TC and Diff.
 

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Looking for any info or tips on "do it yourself" transmission fluid drain and fill for a 2018,19,20 Equinox premier with 2.0 turbo engine.
Appreciate any response.
 

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If no dip stick, not sure on your trans. , then measure what came out and put that back in if it has no leaks.
Use a full synthetic Dexron VI fluid, lots of choices online for full synth. .
Drain it every 45k miles. Don't forget transfer case if the new generation has the same setup as my '16 AWD .
 
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If no dip stick, not sure on your trans. , then measure what came out and put that back in if it has no leaks.
Use a full synthetic Dexron VI fluid, lots of choices online for full synth. .
Drain it every 45k miles. Don't forget transfer case if the new generation has the same setup as my '16 AWD .
I just replaced (5) Qts in my 2011 V6, but I've got a dipstick to check afterwards. If I didn't have the dipstick, and only had the two holes on the side of the case, I think what I'd try to do is make a threaded insert for the FILL hole to which I'd attach a clear line of plastic tubing, which would then connect to a funnel, resting at the top of the engine compartment. Then I'd fill with the amount that came out, adding enough beyond that until I saw the fluid coming back up into the clear tubing.

But the fluid will expand when it heats up, so would this method risk overfilling?? I don't know, but I think I would go with it as long as I wasn't adding more than, say, a 1/2 quart beyond what I measured had come out. The problem with just always filling what you measured came out is - it doesn't account for insidious leaks that you may not notice over time. What if you're slowly leaking transmission fluid into your coolant, or you've got a very slow external leak that you just don't notice (or you ignore as a minor oil leak)?

Regardless, it's just crazy how they make these transmission cases nowadays ... clam-shelled, with no way to get at the filter (without completely removing the transmission), and some of them with no dipstick! It reeks of "railroading" to me (to the dealership for expensive servicing), but maybe the thinking is - "it's better to put a padlock on it for life than to let people tinker with it too much and end up causing more problems in the end"
 

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Yea but there is no filter. I have heard of people now a day's drilling a hole into the torque converter and sealing it with a rivet after drain and fill. I don't recommend actually cleaning the transmission by swapping out all the fluid more than a couple times or else... The clutch plates ect are very tight tolerance designed to wear evenly. Cleaning the transmission will remove any varnish those parts rely on U could create a gap cause excess heat lose a gear have slipping make fry torque converter ect but I doubt it. But transmission fluid is like a super cleaner on its own it could remove oxidation from anything.
 

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Yea but there is no filter. I have heard of people now a day's drilling a hole into the torque converter and sealing it with a rivet after drain and fill. I don't recommend actually cleaning the transmission by swapping out all the fluid more than a couple times or else... The clutch plates ect are very tight tolerance designed to wear evenly. Cleaning the transmission will remove any varnish those parts rely on U could create a gap cause excess heat lose a gear have slipping make fry torque converter ect but I doubt it. But transmission fluid is like a super cleaner on its own it could remove oxidation from anything.
Here is a Youtube and the best way to drain and refill ALL the transmission fluid. Best to have another assistant to help with starting, stopping the engine and adding more fluid as it is flushed.
If you do not wish to drain and refill all the fluid, just drain and add what is taken out. without disconnecting the trans cooler line.

 

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Magnetic plug is going into my 'nox on the next oil change. Will do the fluid also while it's on the ramps, sooner then it's time but it's getting close anyway.
On my old '09 Malibu with the 4 speed and level plugs I drained, measured and refilled and added a few ounces for good luck on it's first service. No apparent leaks on it but who knows how correct it's fill was as it was a used purchase.
Got it with 75k miles and sold it with 190k miles with zero issues. And I'm no wimp on the right pedal.
Without a lift to get it level to do the level plug ritual and even getting the fluid temp. up to spec. it's the way to go.
My Tahoe that has a trans. temp. gauge and you would have to tow something heavy or power brake the crap out of the trans. to get the fluid to the specified temp. so the measure method for me is the most accurate.
Regular changes, even if it's only half of capacity will keep it going for a long time. 30-40k mile changes doing that works.
Anything else is overkill. Draining convertors is old school back when fluids were not as good as today's synthetics.
Fluid in the coolant would be visible in the coolant and will not kill anything. Coolant in the fluid would be visible on draining process. UV dye in every fluid is the sure detection method. That's how I confirmed a leaking lower intake gasket in my old '03 3.1 Malibu, coolant in the oil, which was a common problem with them.
 

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Regardless, it's just crazy how they make these transmission cases nowadays ... clam-shelled, with no way to get at the filter (
Nobody drain their equinox torque converter by drilling...please lol were talking about completely sealed transmission with no drain plug some people..

Who would do that when their is a drain plug?
 
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