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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Here is a link but it's for the le5, kinda similar for the lea. I'm pretty sure the car can run off just the camshaft position sensor if crank is disconnected.
Ahh yeah I have an LEA engine which the cam in my engine looks very similar to, if not identical? Not sure..

@Colt Hero
In the article they said the cam reluctor can spin apparently if it overheats and the oil gets too low, which in my vehicle it did get very low on oil on a 20minute drive on the highway. So it's possible, I just don't know what orientation to reference as proper as you say. I'll have to have a look to see if there's any decent pictures of new ones to cross reference to.
 

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But the lower lip of the Reluctor gap is not quite flush with the gasket surface (as in the service bulletin @christopherlompoc posted)?

Still - the engine starts and runs, so maybe this doesn’t really matter (or it’s close enough, or within tolerance)?

Seems like you have an engine that’s mechanically in-time, while also electrically out-of-time ...
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
It's very strange, the P0017 code comes back consistently no matter what I do. If the reluctor wheel did spin it did so enough to trip the code but not enough to cause any actual issues.

I wouldn't mind double checking the wiring to the 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor one last time. Does anyone have the volts I should be seeing on them?

Don't think I'll be swapping the exhaust cam out, I've had my fill of timing chain jobs for a while lol
 

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It's actually a ohms test where you unplug and probe the sensor itself, pretty sure it's going to read up to 2k ohms depending on rotation. What you don't want to see is 0 ohms indicating the sensor doesn't have any resistance. But also the ohms test isn't garanteed. I'll have to check and see what Haynes has to say about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
It's actually a ohms test where you unplug and probe the sensor itself, pretty sure it's going to read up to 2k ohms depending on rotation. What you don't want to see is 0 ohms indicating the sensor doesn't have any resistance. But also the ohms test isn't garanteed. I'll have to check and see what Haynes has to say about it.
We'll the sensors themself should test ok, or at least the exhaust one anyway since it's new. I meant I wanted to check the wiring leading to the sensors. Or is there no point in checking that?
 

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@Derap34 : did you ever try swapping the sensors to see if the code moved to the other side (assuming they’re interchangeable)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
@Derap34 : did you ever try swapping the sensors to see if the code moved to the other side (assuming they’re interchangeable)?
I haven't yet but the exhaust cam sensor is brand new, still worth a shot when I get a chance to see what happens.
 

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Those would be codes if their circuit was effected. Notice also how p0017 is actually crankshaft/ camshaft... These codes are all about crank/cam sensors.
Font Paper Writing Paper product Document

Otherwise its saying if you want to test the wires to use a self powered multimeter and a test light...basically add power to test conductivity. I wouldnt unless you disconnect the harness right at the pcm and sensors and disconnect battery.
 

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@Derap34 : You would think that, since the ECM controls the oil flow through the Actuator Solenoids to advance or retard the timing via the mechanical actuators, it would never command the solenoid to advance or retard the timing more than 10 degrees - even if one or more of its inputs was bad and telling it to do so ... because it knows that's wrong.

So, if the mechanical actuator is just not "stuck" in either the too-advanced or too-retarded position, then I'd be thinking either the solenoid is not accurately controlling oil flow, or the position sensor is mis-reporting.

Are the solenoids and position sensors you installed ACDelco (or GM OEM) parts? I thought you had said earlier you had used "cheaper" solenoids or sensors (too tired right now to go back and read it all again). Maybe you could score some "cheap" OEM sensors at the junkyard for test purposes.....

But honestly - like I said before - if this thing has beaten you down too much (for now), I'd just drive it anyway ... keep clearing the code ... and waiting to see if it goes away over time on its own. I had a Timing-related problem "go away over time on its own" years ago when I changed a Timing Belt on my 1.5L 1989 Mitsubishi/Dodge Colt (at around 110,000 miles). I had it up on ramps, marked everything carefully, pulled the belt off, and OMG! ... the Cam turned slightly counter-clockwise (I believe was the direction). I was horrified, but I just turned it right back to the mark I had made, and slipped the new belt on. Got into the car (still up on the ramps), turned the key, and voila! ... the engine started right up and ran like a champ!. YAY! So I drove it off the ramps, and when I did, the engine went POOF (stopped)! So I re-started it ... and it started right up just fine, sounded fine, but it just came right back down and and immediately shut off! Did this a few times before I realized it wasn't going to hold idle. So I drove with my foot on the gas pedal to my father's friend's garage. He checked the timing and said it all looked fine to him. His solution (??) ... turn the Idle Screw! I didn't like that "solution", but I left there, driving around town, with an engine that was revving like it was on the highway! But just a few days later ... the engine RPMs started coming down slowly on its own to a steady and calm idle. Problem went away on its own, and I drove it another 150,000 miles with that Timing Belt! Maybe the Timing Belt stretched a little bit? Maybe the computer compensated? I don't know ... but maybe something similar will happen in your case ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
@christopherlompoc
Ahh! so its possible its the crank sensor than, interesting.. I may have to swap that sensor out, its a cheap test. I just figured it would trip P0016 too since the crank relates to both the intake and exhaust cam sensors. Sometimes the way engineers design things don't make sense though, imagine that!

@Colt Hero
Well I had installed cheaper solenoids initially but switched to an AC Delco, unfortunately that didn't fix the issue. As for it going away on it's own, you never know and the nice thing is it costs me nothing to run it as usual and hope for the best. I've considered doing a couple engine oil flushes but im worried I would ruin the piston ring seal since it burns oil already.
 

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Crank sensor replacement will need a '' crankshaft position system variation learn procedure''.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Thanks for the reminder repairman, that adds to the cost. I'll think on it for a while and try the cam sensor swap for now.
 

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Swapped the cam sensors and the code is gone now!

Thanks all for the help, moral of the story: don't buy cheap non OEM sensors.
Congrats, you deserve a ton of credit for sticking with it to the end.
Your moral of the story should be a sticky.
Just for grins, reread post #2 in this thread.
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Congrats, you deserve a ton of credit for sticking with it to the end.
Your moral of the story should be a sticky.
Just for grins, reread post #2 in this thread.
LOL thanks for that, ya sometimes we complicate things more than we need to, it really was that simple.
Had a good laugh though if I had just listened to your first post. Oh well! Live and learn!
 
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