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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Not yet just about to start on it, re-reading through all the posts to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Exhaust cam key to 7 link to 10
Intake key to 10 link to 2
Crank to 12 link to 5

TDC exhaust stroke(how do I verify this?)
Intake bolts 89 in lb
Timing cover bolts 216in lbs
Cam bolts 63ft lbs + 30 degrees
Crank bolt 74ft lbs 125degrees
Tensioner 55 ft lbs
Belt pulley 37 ft lbs

Everything sound proper?
Gonna pull the tensioner out too after activating it just to verify I'm actually setting it properly.

Thanks for all your help
 

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To verify TDC on the exhaust stroke, rotate the engine by hand, plugs out, and watch the valves on #1cylinder.
If #1 piston is going up on the compression stroke, all intake and exhaust valves are closed.
If #1 piston is going up on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valves will be open and intake valves closed.
 

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Hold on, I have 22 ft lbs on the cam bolts to the acuators then additional 100 degrees, you need to have new bolts and clean out the holes and clean bolts with brake cleaner. The hardware is like a 1 time use, even if the bolt looks good it probably isn't, they used smaller bolts in the design to save weight and in order to get the most out of the bolts they are called torque to yield... That's the whole additional 100 degrees it actually stretches the bolt during that process. Same with the crank bolt ECT... Even the timing cover bolts can easily break. You can actually see the exhaust valves being pushed open by the rockers and I find tdc by putting a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and rotate the motor by hand with a socket on the crank bolt. You should also do the balance shafts chain and water pump. Be very careful installing the timing chain they are fragile I've heard of links breaking at 5k miles. Don't forget your friction washers.

Font Paper Paper product Document Publication
 

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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
No worries taking my sweet time this time, still on disassembly and noticed the plugs look super worn!

Thanks for the specs and guidance guys, finding proper TDC now. Will report back once it's all buttoned up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Well guys I'd like to thank you all for your help. Unfortunately after a meticulous diligent third attempt it's resulted in an astounding failure!

P0017 is back and I am 100% certain the timing chain job was done correctly, I lined everything up to the mm, used new bolts, torqued everything to spec etc.

thanks for all the help I officially give up and have the world's fruitiest equinox!
Safety glove Fluid Gas Machine Metal
Fluid Recipe Ingredient Machine Wood

Reluctor wheel @ TDC

Sleeve Wood Helmet Bicycle part Automotive tire

Intake cam
Tire Automotive tire Camera lens Tread Wheel

Exhaust cam
Gear Bicycle part Automotive tire Wood Auto part

Crank gear
 

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2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L
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@Derap34 : bummer!! All that work (and re-work) only to end up right where you started.

The pictures appear to show everything in alignment, but when the engine’s actually running may be a different story. Since everything seems to rely on oil pressure, and we know that “oil management” is not the forte’ of the 2.4L engine, could this persistent code simply be related to oil flow in this engine? And like I mentioned previously - if plastic particles disintegrated and disappeared inside the engine, could those particles still be floating around and lodging within the engine somewhere (Actuators? or Tensioners?) causing irregular oil flow at times (and maybe a slackened chain or a Phaser that isn't quite moving to the commanded position every time)?

I think I would be pulling out the Actuator Solenoids on a regular basis (now) and checking/cleaning their screens ... in addition to maybe somewhat earlier oil changes for a period of time ... in hopes that this P0017 code will just disappear over time.

But I’d also be listening to the engine very carefully along the way, too, in case a slackening chain starts hinting that it may be getting ready to jump a tooth again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Tableware Serveware Wood Pottery Gas

The original upper guide nylon looks like it's in good shape (as well as the other guide parts). I pulled the actuators out twice in the past week just to check and they appeared clean. I flushed the oil twice in the past week too. Still you never know what's floating around in there since the engine is so filthy.

It's absolutely baffling
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Is the intake actuator solenoid grey and the exhaust one black or maybe at some point the connection for either got mixed up?
That's right exhaust is black intake is gray, it could have been mixed up but the intake connectors wire is slightly longer, I would have to give the wiring a decent pull to get enough slack to snap the wrong one into place. Should I try reversing them just to see what happens?
 

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View attachment 18009
The original upper guide nylon looks like it's in good shape (as well as the other guide parts). I pulled the actuators out twice in the past week just to check and they appeared clean. I flushed the oil twice in the past week too. Still you never know what's floating around in there since the engine is so filthy.

It's absolutely baffling
There appear to be jagged edges on the left side in this picture, are you sure there aren't pieces broken off this nylon guide?
 

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Maybe, with the generic codes I usually look at the code above and below like yea p0016 and 18. The car is guessing so yes your right but these codes are used on many different cars like ford dodge gm u name it, it can get confusing.
Anyway, it's worth a shot u can ohms test the one that's in there.
Here's another equinox with the same code.
 

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2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L
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It could be the crankshaft position sensor.
I thought he had it running (but maybe without VVT)? If it was the crankshaft position sensor it wouldn’t even start, right?

Or is it not starting (now)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I thought he had it running (but maybe without VVT)? If it was the crankshaft position sensor it wouldn’t even start, right?

Or is it not starting (now)?
It is starting and running fine just without vvt, just isn't as good on gas really.

I'll give the crank sensor a try but before I do just want to make sure I'm checking the cam reluctor properly. I should be checking it with #1 cylinder at TDC on exhaust correct? I read somewhere that it was cylinder #4 at TDC but I'm not sure..
 

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@Derap34 : I'm not near my manuals right now, and so I don't know, but if that Reluctor is "pressed on", then it has a fixed, or "absolute orientation". If you could hold a new camshaft in your hands and see what that orientation is, then you'd know.

Have you seen this TechLink? It's a similar thing, but for a different GM engine(s), with a different Reluctor. But notice how it shows the orientation of the "small tang" on this particular Reluctor, and how it's supposed to line up with the "2D Matrix" embossed on the Hex of the Camshaft (when this "Matrix" is at 12 o'clock).

Maybe there is a similar physical orientation/alignment aspect of your 2012 Camshaft?


But how would this Reluctor get "spun" or mis-aligned (even if it was "pressed-on")? It's not on the Timing Chain end. There isn't any "load" on it, right? Isn't it just spinning, free of any obstruction? Look at the Reluctor in the TechLink article ... it's just a flimsy piece of sheet metal !

UPDATE: All of this is for a "crank-no-start" condition. @Derap34 's engine is running, so does that mean a "spun Reluctor" is not his problem?

@christopherlompoc : are you saying the engine can start using the camshaft position sensor, or that it can just continue running (if already running), if the crankshaft position sensor stops working?
 

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Here is a link but it's for the le5, kinda similar for the lea. I'm pretty sure the car can run off just the camshaft position sensor if crank is disconnected.
 
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