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As in it is going to require taking the timing chain back off like it's something on the inside of the motor. Probably the Actuator possibly the reluctor spun.
 

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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
As in it is going to require taking the timing chain back off like it's something on the inside of the motor. Probably the Actuator possibly the reluctor spun.
Right so really the only last two things I could replace to fix this are the exhaust VVT sprocket, and the exhaust camshaft itself. If it was you, would you just order up both and switch them out?

Unless of course it's a software or wiring issue in which case shoot me now
 

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I would replace those non acdelco solenoids... Make sure you get acdelco brand everything, you don't absolutely need to replace the actuators just need to make sure they are working properly by locking to the cams/ be in the correct position to lock when you shut off the motor. When you do the work make sure your tdc #1 cylender on the EXHAUST stroke make sure the notches on the cams are in the correct position not the arrows on the actuators. Then put on the actuators when locked I would inspect them and soak them in oil... Line up the arrows dead center on the colored links... Alot of times if the reluctor spins the car wont start/ run really bad. It's a pressed on part but alot less likely to fail than an actuator. Does the car make any strange noises when you first start it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok thanks, I'll start with new AC Delco solenoids, Is there an easy way to tell if the actuators locked to the cams in the correct position?

It doesn't make any strange sounds on startup, though it did before doing the timing chain job. If the check engine light wasn't on I would wouldn't know there's anything wrong with the vehicle.
 

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Yea you could put a open end crescent wrench on the cams right behind the actuators and turn either direction... Not enough to rotate the motor and not hard enough to break anything just a wrench right there move the cam gear left and right a few degrees... And make sure it's stuck to the gear and not moving freely... Don't spin the whole motor backwards.
 

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Hi guys,

Trying to diagnose a p0017 code on my 2012 equinox and checked the wiring to the cam position sensor on the back of the engine.

With the ignition set to acc and the sensor connected the 3 wires are showing middle white as ground, green as 0.72v constant, and yellow as 5v switched (as I pass it infront of metal).

With the sensor disconnected I am getting 5v to the green and yellow and ground appears to be working.

The green is supposed to be showing 12v with ignition on isn't it? Is it possible I have both broken wiring and a dead sensor?

Can I bypass the PCM on the green constant and run it directly to the battery positive or another good acc 12v source?

Beside the code, were there any other symptoms?
 

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I borrowed a code reader at work, it's sending P0017 again. I've tried clearing it but it keeps coming back.

The car runs flawlessly and has a smooth idle unlike before the timing chain job.

Any ideas?
Thanks for your help
One of the linked videos talks about a nylon liner (??) that’s supposedly attached to that top chain guide (where the chain goes horizontally from bank to bank, and where you were jiggling the chain to show its slack). The linked video said the nylon piece sometimes disappears due to the slackened chain beating on it before getting replaced. I wonder if this plastic material, plus any plastic material from any other Guides that have cracked, failed, or otherwise disappeared, can cause chronic issues post-repair with oil flow through those Solenoids or Tensioners (that rely on oil flow to operate properly) with tiny fragments of plastic living in the system for multiple oil changes afterwards?

Maybe after a Timing Chain replacement, if you’ve had internal plastic pieces disappear into the system, you should do several quick oil changes afterwards to try to get all those particles out. Or at least pull the Solenoids and check/clean their screens?
 
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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Pre timing chain job the car had a rattle sound and a noticable stutter when idling.

Cam position sensor has been replaced with a new one.

The previous upper chain guide appeared to have the nylon in tact but I didn't take a close look at it, I've ordered an acdelco exhaust cam sprocket and exhaust actuator, going to swap both out and do some oil flushes at approx the 100km mark.
When I ahve the engine apart I'll take a look and see if the exhaust reluctor wheel has spun (really should have done this last time I had it apart><)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Update:

Sadly the new exhaust actuator did not clear the P0017 code.

Next up, the exhaust phaser/sprocket. I'm going to take a video and check the sprocket and reluctor wheel and post what I find during the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Working on replacing the exhaust sprocket, took a quick clip of the reluctor wheel everything looks good I think.

 

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Font Material property Circle Technology Parallel

These are notches on the camshafts not the arrows on the gear that align with the colored links.
Poster Font Art Circle Rectangle

I think the silver plated link or different colored one matches up with the crank and the 2 same colored links line up with the arrows on the cam gears... Your timing valve timing looks off to me but I have a 2010 its different if I do take off cam gears you need new bolts new crank bolt too. Reluctor looks fine.... Its not able to move freely at all from the cam right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Reluctor is solid to the cam, those notches on the cams are just for aligning the timing before installing a timing chain and engaging the cam sprockets.

From everything I've read so far the unique colored link aligns with the intake sprocket arrow. If your timing chains colored links align with the cam and crank indicators properly than your engine is "in time" or so I've been told.
 

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notches on the cams are just for aligning the timing
That would be so great if you could ignore the camshaft orientation and go based off just the chain, the colored link actually depends on the kit. Since you're replacing the actuator I highly suggest putting # 1 cylender tdc exhaust stroke and allingning the cams. What brand timing chain is it? Even if you are only replacing the chain the timing needs to be set that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
It's a cloyes set, most of my information was just based off their YouTube video.
 

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With the cloyes kits they have varying instructions depending on the specific model of chain, some of the older chains still use those instructions but they changed them on certain kits... Did it come with paper instructions? Mine were different than the video
 

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What were you using to determine the camshaft angle? Just whatever position the cams were in when you shut it off is the same position you put it back together? I'm seeing the code only came on after you replaced the tensioner... Did you activate it manually by pressing the rear chain guide in and watching it click out and activate or did you do it by letting it activate itself when you turn the key? Somewhere along the line the distance between two timing points changed im assuming. Like between cams or between a cam and crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
What were you using to determine the camshaft angle? Just whatever position the cams were in when you shut it off is the same position you put it back together? I'm seeing the code only came on after you replaced the tensioner... Did you activate it manually by pressing the rear chain guide in and watching it click out and activate or did you do it by letting it activate itself when you turn the key? Somewhere along the line the distance between two timing points changed im assuming. Like between cams or between a cam and crank.
Think you're right, when I put the tensioner in the first time I tried to release it but doubt I did it properly. Something jumped a tooth and now I can't seem to get it back in alignment.

To check the camshaft angle I'm aligning the crankshaft key to the 12 o'clock position and the intake/exhaust arrows at the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions. In the cloyes video he said that if all of the indicators are in these positions then the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.

I've put the engine back together to check if it was as simple as a new exhaust vvt sprocket and aligning the colored links, as you've suggested it isn't that simple. When I get the ambition again i'll have to pull it apart and check the sprocket key orientations. I'll read through what you've said and follow it to the T since the documentation from the manufacturer is outdated or completely wrong. My kit came with no paper documentation by the way.
 

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Ugh yea unfortunately I would line up the notches on the cams like the picture, I did the clouds kit mine came with a paper that contradicted the video I was like good thing I read that, some of the Chinese kits and acdelco you actually have to count the links and mark them yourself but yea 5 o clock on the dot on the crank followed by the arrow on the exhaust sprocket finally the last step is to skip the chain onto the intake sprocket that may need to be rotated a couple degrees during installing to make sure the arrow is dead center on the link. I know it seems like you can just line up the arrows and leave the sprockets on but its a 2 step proscess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Spoke to a Senior mechanic at my work and think I pinpointed exactly where I went wrong (twice ><)

I set the engine to TDC on the exhaust stroke, at this point everything was aligned properly but the exhaust cam was off one tooth.(p0017)

I aligned the chain to the crank mark, than to the intake cam mark.

With the crank and intake cam set properly and fully installed, I than put the chain on the exhaust sprocket and slipped the sprocket onto the exhaust cam.

This is where I went wrong:
To get the exhaust sprocket to snap into place and engage the key on the cam I put my wrench on the intake cam and spun the intake cam (along with the attached crank) towards the exhaust until everything locked in.
 
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