Right so really the only last two things I could replace to fix this are the exhaust VVT sprocket, and the exhaust camshaft itself. If it was you, would you just order up both and switch them out?As in it is going to require taking the timing chain back off like it's something on the inside of the motor. Probably the Actuator possibly the reluctor spun.
Trying to diagnose a p0017 code on my 2012 equinox and checked the wiring to the cam position sensor on the back of the engine.
With the ignition set to acc and the sensor connected the 3 wires are showing middle white as ground, green as 0.72v constant, and yellow as 5v switched (as I pass it infront of metal).
With the sensor disconnected I am getting 5v to the green and yellow and ground appears to be working.
The green is supposed to be showing 12v with ignition on isn't it? Is it possible I have both broken wiring and a dead sensor?
Can I bypass the PCM on the green constant and run it directly to the battery positive or another good acc 12v source?
One of the linked videos talks about a nylon liner (??) that’s supposedly attached to that top chain guide (where the chain goes horizontally from bank to bank, and where you were jiggling the chain to show its slack). The linked video said the nylon piece sometimes disappears due to the slackened chain beating on it before getting replaced. I wonder if this plastic material, plus any plastic material from any other Guides that have cracked, failed, or otherwise disappeared, can cause chronic issues post-repair with oil flow through those Solenoids or Tensioners (that rely on oil flow to operate properly) with tiny fragments of plastic living in the system for multiple oil changes afterwards?I borrowed a code reader at work, it's sending P0017 again. I've tried clearing it but it keeps coming back.
The car runs flawlessly and has a smooth idle unlike before the timing chain job.
Thanks for your help
That would be so great if you could ignore the camshaft orientation and go based off just the chain, the colored link actually depends on the kit. Since you're replacing the actuator I highly suggest putting # 1 cylender tdc exhaust stroke and allingning the cams. What brand timing chain is it? Even if you are only replacing the chain the timing needs to be set that way.notches on the cams are just for aligning the timing
Think you're right, when I put the tensioner in the first time I tried to release it but doubt I did it properly. Something jumped a tooth and now I can't seem to get it back in alignment.What were you using to determine the camshaft angle? Just whatever position the cams were in when you shut it off is the same position you put it back together? I'm seeing the code only came on after you replaced the tensioner... Did you activate it manually by pressing the rear chain guide in and watching it click out and activate or did you do it by letting it activate itself when you turn the key? Somewhere along the line the distance between two timing points changed im assuming. Like between cams or between a cam and crank.