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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this is a dumb question! Would it be possible to put sacrificial anodes on a new Terrain to prevent rust over the years? If so what would be the preferred sacrificial metal (Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium) and how would it be attached and how may would be needed? I live in the rustbelt (Connecticut) and it would be nice to keep the vehicle a little longer.
The reason I thought of this is that a neighbor has a small utility trailer and put some zinc bolts onto the frame and the trailer does not have a spec of rust on it.
 

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I live in Iowa so I do understand rust. Todays cars have extensive rust protection on all/most of the metal parts so they really don't rust off the frame like they used to. IMHO, the best method of keeping a new car looking new and free from rust is to keep it clean, especially in the winter. And I'm not just talking about the painted surfaces, I'm talking the under-body! Spend the money to get a really good car wash at least weekly during the winter and pay the extra $$ for under body wash. I believe that if you do this one simple thing, the car will look good and be rust free the entire time you own it.
 

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What the city does for the snowplows/sander trucks is install the electronic brain that is always sending some charge to the whole truck, since they started years ago with that they haven't had a single issue with rust.

I didn't know about those zinc bolts.. how does that work?


wg200usa said:
Sorry if this is a dumb question! Would it be possible to put sacrificial anodes on a new Terrain to prevent rust over the years? If so what would be the preferred sacrificial metal (Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium) and how would it be attached and how may would be needed? I live in the rustbelt (Connecticut) and it would be nice to keep the vehicle a little longer.
The reason I thought of this is that a neighbor has a small utility trailer and put some zinc bolts onto the frame and the trailer does not have a spec of rust on it.
 

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We purchased the "Sym-Tech Electronic Corrosion Control Module" from our Dealer.
Life time guarantee, probably some clauses we don't know about and who knows if it actually works, but it was part of lifetime paint and upholstery protection as well.

More info:

http://www.sym-tech.ca/surface-rust-protection.php


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't know about those zinc bolts.. how does that work?[/color]

I just talked with my engineer friend who put the zinc bolts on the on the utility trailer. The way the zinc bolts work is that they have a different positive change then other metals and that is what draws the corrosion away from the other metals.

This article explains sacrificial anode better than I can (look about 3/4 the way down the page).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anode
 

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They do work. Its why they use it on huge tanker ships.

This is actually interesting. Let me know if you find a place to mount it.
 

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I think they will need to bigger because of the amount of sheet metal on the vehicle. Its going to have to be a little brick of it for us.
 

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wouldn't you need about a thousand bolts? one for every paneland anywhere there was rubber bushings
As for tankers, isn't there something about them being in the water all the time and that completes the circuit?
I don't know anything about these bolts but I'll bet they do not work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They do work. Its why they use it on huge tanker ships.

This is actually interesting. Let me know if you find a place to mount it. [/color]


I still do not have my Terrain yet so I cannot speculate on where to put the anodes just yet.



So it's a matter of just screwing those Zinc bolts somewhere exposed? [/color]


As was stated latter in this post you would need to use something a little bit bigger than just Zinc bolts (more like a small ingots of Zinc).



Keep in mind that this post was to address the rust issue for those of us who live in the rust-belt. My thought was to use what boat owners use; see link below. I would think that the anodes would need to be strategically placed, several near each wheel, where snow and slug would tend to accumulate. If, like someone in the treat suggested that the salt water actives the circuit then when the salt and sludge were on the anodes the circuit would be completed and the anodes would be doing their job, just like on the big tankers.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearch?Ns=Most%20Popular|0
 

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scam...dealer just increased their margins cause of you....

its all the same crap under different names...this is a ruling against rustevader sold at dealers....
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/08/rustevad.shtm

also the zinc botls workl great if your in water....being on land, the theory doesnt apply
 

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I have to agree with the "Snake oil" crowd. First you would have to put these bolts in every panel like fourmoremarine said. I don't think you want bolts sticking out of the body panels(unless you are talking about just the undercarriage). Then you have to drill into the already rustproofed metal to install the bolts exposing more bare metal. If that's all that it took, wouldn't the mfg's already do it at time of assembly when it would be so much easier?
As was stated earlier, wash your car regularly ...especially the underbody.
I live in the Chicago area and the IDOT loves salt. I have never had a rust problem since the 50's. As the old commercial said....We've come a long way, baby. ;D

Another thing, back in the day some people put a (copper)penny on their battery to do the same thing.

Also I like the dealers "lifetime guarentee" how many people keep their cars for life? I know some do. Most of them are not transferable either. And will they be around in 10/15/20/30 years to honor the gurantee?
Look at all those rustproofing companies...they're almost all out of buisness.
Loo
 
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