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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Keep in mind that if you put in a vented cap, you now have unmetered air entering your combustion stoichiometric calculation, and if you get a CEL, that may me why. The other thing is that the PCV inlet tube that can collect water and freeze, it doing that because the engine likely has a clogged PCV orifice. See my post with the link to my other post, and read it completely.
Thanks for the info, that's very helpful. I'm not even sure what to do with this thing at this point. I can't believe that GM won't acknowledge that these issues are still present after 2012. Guess I might as well drive it and keep an eye on the oil level for now, but not sure what to do once it gets worse. The rest of the car is in good shape, so an engine swap wouldn't be a horrible idea, although it's ridiculous that it's needed in the first place. Does anyone have any experience with the Jasper reman engines?
 

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2011 Terrain SLT 2.4L FWD
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2017 engine still burns oil, but I think that's just the nature of this engine. As far as I know, they spray oil on the piston skirts to keep the pistons cooler, and when the piston is at TDC, I'm sure the oil is spraying on the bore, and it isn't full removed by the rings. And the rings were what I had heard were the problem...poor tempering, which meant they lost their springyness...anyway, that's just what I read someplace. The other thing is that this engine is very efficient, and therefore creates a high manifold vacuum almost all the time, and high revving 16 valve 4 cylinders are notorious for sucking oil down the intake valve guides as they wear; now with that said, I have a 1.8T that has 5 valves per cylinder, and 120k miles, and it never needs oil between changes...but it is a turbo, so when your stomping on the pedal,, the manifold has positive pressure, not vacuum.
 

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It's not poor tempering it's low-tension rings. They are an industry wide thing now to help engines meet fuel mileage standards.
Coupled with Direct Injection that washes oil off cylinders increased oil consumption also.
Thats why the port injection 2.4 where better motors than the direct injected ones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It's not poor tempering it's low-tension rings. They are an industry wide thing now to help engines meet fuel mileage standards.
Coupled with Direct Injection that washes oil off cylinders increased oil consumption also.
Thats why the port injection 2.4 where better motors than the direct injected ones.
Does the 2014 use port or direct injection?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
2017 engine still burns oil, but I think that's just the nature of this engine. As far as I know, they spray oil on the piston skirts to keep the pistons cooler, and when the piston is at TDC, I'm sure the oil is spraying on the bore, and it isn't full removed by the rings. And the rings were what I had heard were the problem...poor tempering, which meant they lost their springyness...anyway, that's just what I read someplace. The other thing is that this engine is very efficient, and therefore creates a high manifold vacuum almost all the time, and high revving 16 valve 4 cylinders are notorious for sucking oil down the intake valve guides as they wear; now with that said, I have a 1.8T that has 5 valves per cylinder, and 120k miles, and it never needs oil between changes...but it is a turbo, so when your stomping on the pedal,, the manifold has positive pressure, not vacuum.
I spoke with the shop this morning to pay the bill. They said the oil was also extremely dirty. I had brought it somewhere else for its last oil change. I'm wondering if someone didn't do part of the oil change. They want me to bring it back in 3k miles to re-evaluate. They said if the oil consumption is the only issue, and nothing else breaks, we can pretty much drive the car forever. Would you recommend getting it diagnosed at a dealer, or just keeping an eye on the oil level and bringing it in every 3k miles for an oil change? They said we can adjust that depending on how the oil condition and level are next time.
 

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2017 Equinox LT 2.4 FWD
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I spoke with the shop this morning to pay the bill. They said the oil was also extremely dirty. I had brought it somewhere else for its last oil change. I'm wondering if someone didn't do part of the oil change. They want me to bring it back in 3k miles to re-evaluate. They said if the oil consumption is the only issue, and nothing else breaks, we can pretty much drive the car forever. Would you recommend getting it diagnosed at a dealer, or just keeping an eye on the oil level and bringing it in every 3k miles for an oil change? They said we can adjust that depending on how the oil condition and level are next time.
Pretty much forever might be a stretch, if the oil burning gets bad enough the cats will get poisoned and even with replacement OEM cats, you may enter a phase of continuous code chasing.
 

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2015 Equinox LT 2.4L AWD / 2009 Torrent GT 3.4L AWD
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I spoke with the shop this morning to pay the bill. They said the oil was also extremely dirty. I had brought it somewhere else for its last oil change. I'm wondering if someone didn't do part of the oil change. They want me to bring it back in 3k miles to re-evaluate. They said if the oil consumption is the only issue, and nothing else breaks, we can pretty much drive the car forever. Would you recommend getting it diagnosed at a dealer, or just keeping an eye on the oil level and bringing it in every 3k miles for an oil change? They said we can adjust that depending on how the oil condition and level are next time.
Your shop knows how to run a business. If nothing else breaks of course I too can guarantee your vehicle can run forever.😊
Yes, 2014 2.4 engine is direct injection engine.
The oil gets dirty pretty fast and that is natural. The color does not tell the truth, have the oil analyzed or at least look closer for any unusual shiny metal flakes. What is very dirty means? You only have 90k miles on the engine I think it is too early for high mileage oil, but I would explore using different brand or mix regular 5-30 oil with high mileage oil to see the outcome. My 2015 used 1/2 quart with OEM oil when oil change was done by the dealer, after I switched to Mobil it only used 1/4 quart every 3k miles or so. Different oil velocity matters.
Definitely get a fc219 oil filler cap, it is a cheap insurance to carry.
I won't let the shop "reevaluate" the situation after 3k miles. All they do just check the oil level which should be your weekly task. If you trust your shop, take note on the weekly oil level so they can make an informed guess when you take the vehicle back to them after 3k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Your shop knows how to run a business. If nothing else breaks of course I too can guarantee your vehicle can run forever.😊
Yes, 2014 2.4 engine is direct injection engine.
The oil gets dirty pretty fast and that is natural. The color does not tell the truth, have the oil analyzed or at least look closer for any unusual shiny metal flakes. What is very dirty means? You only have 90k miles on the engine I think it is too early for high mileage oil, but I would explore using different brand or mix regular 5-30 oil with high mileage oil to see the outcome. My 2015 used 1/2 quart with OEM oil when oil change was done by the dealer, after I switched to Mobil it only used 1/4 quart every 3k miles or so. Different oil velocity matters.
Definitely get a fc219 oil filler cap, it is a cheap insurance to carry.
I won't let the shop "reevaluate" the situation after 3k miles. All they do just check the oil level which should be your weekly task. If you trust your shop, take note on the weekly oil level so they can make an informed guess when you take the vehicle back to them after 3k miles.
Sorry, I meant to clarify. They meant that as in there is no need to do any big jobs (engine/piston replacement, etc.) until something major happens, and that there is no harm in driving it and adding oil when needed. They wanted to do another oil change in 3k miles to check the level and see how dirty it is. The last oil change was done at Monroe because I was in a rush and needed it done on a weekend, so there is a possibility that it wasn't done at all or correctly. Needless to say I won't be going back there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Your shop knows how to run a business. If nothing else breaks of course I too can guarantee your vehicle can run forever.😊
Yes, 2014 2.4 engine is direct injection engine.
The oil gets dirty pretty fast and that is natural. The color does not tell the truth, have the oil analyzed or at least look closer for any unusual shiny metal flakes. What is very dirty means? You only have 90k miles on the engine I think it is too early for high mileage oil, but I would explore using different brand or mix regular 5-30 oil with high mileage oil to see the outcome. My 2015 used 1/2 quart with OEM oil when oil change was done by the dealer, after I switched to Mobil it only used 1/4 quart every 3k miles or so. Different oil velocity matters.
Definitely get a fc219 oil filler cap, it is a cheap insurance to carry.
I won't let the shop "reevaluate" the situation after 3k miles. All they do just check the oil level which should be your weekly task. If you trust your shop, take note on the weekly oil level so they can make an informed guess when you take the vehicle back to them after 3k miles.
If you put on a vented oil cap, does oil come out of the top?
 

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If you put on a vented oil cap, does oil come out of the top?
No sir, the oil should not come out of the top. If it does that means the pressure in the crankcase was too high and the vented cap did it's job and saved the main seal. When I do my oil change I always check the vented cap to ensure it works by blowing into it (from the threaded side). Of course, I'll clean it first and cover it with a paper towel to avoid ingesting the nasty oil residue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
No sir, the oil should not come out of the top. If it does that means the pressure in the crankcase was too high and the vented cap did it's job and saved the main seal. When I do my oil change I always check the vented cap to ensure it works by blowing into it (from the threaded side). Of course, I'll clean it first and cover it with a paper towel to avoid ingesting the nasty oil residue.
Ok great, thanks!

The shop said they don't think the timing chain or VVT solinoids are the issue, since the rattling on startup goes away quickly and isn't constant. Would you all agree with that assessment, or should I push the issue?
 
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