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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Posting this for anyone that will be doing this. The pump is located right beside the battery on the backside of the front cylinder head. You do most of the disassembly with a 10mm socket. :)
This is where I stopped removing things. Getting the hose off the back of the intake manifold was the only struggle.



And the pump and lines. I'm replacing the high pressure line as per the service manual..and the pretty bright yellow sticker on the line but I'm reusing the low pressure one.
I'm also replacing the spark plugs because I'm in the neighborhood.



All in all a pretty straight forward repair. No bolts gave me any fight..just the ones in the pump to remove and I probably just jinxed myself.
 

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for others. some of the lines are indeed one time use only. You cant reuse them.
This is because the fittings deform to make a tight seal. Reusing could lead to high pressure fuel leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
for others. some of the lines are indeed one time use only. You cant reuse them.
This is because the fittings deform to make a tight seal. Reusing could lead to high pressure fuel leak.
I've read to replace it and also no mention of replacing it. the fact there is no sticker on it saying to replace it like the high pressure line has and the other end of the line has the typical fuel injection line locking mechanism is the reason I'm reusing it.
I'll let you folks know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
While I'm waiting for parts I decided to clean the TB..it was extremely dirty..



That oil is coming from the vapor canister purge valve system..
I'm guessing that isn't normal??
 

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That's blow by coming from the PCV system also some carbon can creep back up to the throttle body every time u shut off the car.. its common but not good. The vapor canister purge is for fuel vapor in the evap system from gas tank.
 

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That's pretty nasty.
Make sure to get the back side clean.
If mine looked like that I would put a new on on, seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's blow by coming from the PCV system also some carbon can creep back up to the throttle body every time u shut off the car.. its common but not good. The vapor canister purge is for fuel vapor in the evap system from gas tank.
I thought that too..but when I traced the line it went under the firewall towards the tank..
I've heard this is "normal".
Would they have tied the purge line into the pvc circuit for some bizarre reason?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man..if you want room to do this..you need to remove the battery box..
If you want to get at the bottom bolt on the fuel pump..you need to remove the thermostat housing..
I removed the bottom rad hose and the hose from the reservoir from the thermostat housing and that gave me enough slack to move it out of the way.
 

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Hmm yea it only says discard the old bolts...from what I understand u want to make sure the cam lobe for the high pressure fuel pump is in the closed position like not on the lobe so when u do install it u don't bend the shaft on the new pump... Beware not to lose the roller between the pump and camshaft when u remove the old one.. Also if u do try and use the old bolts..umm it's saying 28ft lbs...those old bolts won't handle that they will break I'm sure I would be weary of tightening the new ones that tight even since their so thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hmm yea it only says discard the old bolts...from what I understand u want to make sure the cam lobe for the high pressure fuel pump is in the closed position like not on the lobe so when u do install it u don't bend the shaft on the new pump... Beware not to lose the roller between the pump and camshaft when u remove the old one.. Also if u do try and use the old bolts..umm it's saying 28ft lbs...those old bolts won't handle that they will break I'm sure I would be weary of tightening the new ones that tight even since their so thin.
sorry for the delay replying.
New bolts come with the pump. I was surprised they used torque to yield bolts.
The cam follower came out with the pump. It's keyed so it only goes in one way.
I don't think you can lose it between the cam and the head. you need to rotate the cam so the follower goes in all the way before you bolt the new pump on. Even with it in all the way there is still about a 1/16" gap between the pump flange and the head.
You can do this via the bolt on the alternator (there isn't much room to get at the crank pully and bolt from topside.)
The engine rolled over extremely easy which surprised me as I was going counterclockwise and was concerned the pully retaining nut on the alternator would loosen instead.
You need to remove the bottom part of the airbox though. It's easy..2 bolts and it comes out.
Follow up on the thermostat housing..I ended up removing it completely because I couldn't get the thermostat out. It's held in with spring tension. Had I had the new thermostat there..I would have used this handy dandy tool that came with it. lol

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mission accomplished. no leaks, didn't over head and nothing fell off.
The last piece of advice is..order or pick up your thermostat before you start the tear down. If I had..I could have left the thermostat housing hooked to all the hoses instead of removing it to get the thermostat out. There is enough slack in the hoses after you remove the lower rad hose to get it out of your way enough to get at the bottom bolt in the pump.
 

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2011 GMC TERRAIN SLT-2 3.0L V6 (LF1)
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Great write up and well done sir.
I'll be doing mine soon as well.
Couple questions... I'm assuming you didn't use the cam follower installer tool?
And how did you depressurerize the system? Which thermostat did you go with?
I'm trying to go OE thermostat but can't find one without having to buy the complete housing assembly.
Thanks.
 

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im a little confused.
Ive replaced the thermostat in my 3.6 Traverse.
I simply ordered the whole piece.- looks like the piece you have in the vice.
so you replaced the thermostat ONLY? reused the housing?


the 3.6 HPFP and thermostat.

Though I will say, that there was NOTHING wrong with my thermostat when I changed it. No overheating and no CELS.
@ 111,000 miles it was time for a coolant drain and refill.
I went ahead and replaced the upper hose, lower hose, thermostat, and coolant.
I mean, engine was going to be empty of coolant- may as well replace those parts.



 

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How much was the thermostat housing ? Looks expensive.
 

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How much was the thermostat housing ? Looks expensive.
It's called a Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit, fits 3.0L-3.6L from 2007 to 2020.
GM Parts Direct has it for $80.
 

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On Traverse forum- my HOW TO

Thermostat- AC-DELCO 15-11076- $40.19.

Upper radiator hose- AC-DELCO 24611L-$30.79
Lower radiator hose- AC-DELCO 26581X-$36.79
Hose clamp pliers- Craftsman #49804- $37.83
Prestone 50/50 Dexcool coolant- 2 jugs. $24.94
 
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