PureOne Oil Filters
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I do put the filter tip in the hole in the engine and then screw in the cap. I have a 2000 Saturn LS1 with the same oil filter set up. So on my next change I'll try putting the filter in the housing and see how it goes. IMO it really shouldn't make a difference.
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I have done three filter changes with my I4 and pureone filters. No issues yet. I do put it on the cap first and then screw it in. Don't overtighten also.
I agree; snap the filter onto the cap, oil the small "O" ring on the bottom of the filter as well as the bottom of the filter itself and place the cap on with filter attached.fireman591 said:
You may not have a problem dropping the filter in and then putting the cap on but if the top of the filter doesn't align perfectly with where it snaps on the cap it will crush the filter when you tighten the cap.
From what I have read about the PureOne filter it has excellent filtration and is highly rated (with a catch) because of the large amount of filter material; this is good and bad. Good because it filters very well and bad because if you only change your oil every 5000 miles or more it may reduce your oil pressure. The 2.4 apparently likes clean oil and good oil pressure.
I would have no problem using a PureOne filter if I changed it every 3,000 miles.
I just changed my oil at 1,300 miles (Terrain was almost 3 months old) to Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 Filter; the OEM filter was not crushed or twisted. I will probably change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first from now on. Over kill-------------- probably!
I compared the Fram TG9018 to the Super Tech 9018 to the ACDelco filters at Wal-Mart, and there were differences in the amount of plastic that actually covered the filter media. The Fram Tough Guard seemed to be the best quality O-rings, packaging and most filter media exposed, and the Super Tech even seemed a little smaller. The Delco seemed to have a cheap O-ring at its base that was actually smaller and didnt come with the large O-ring for the cap.
So I picked up the Fram Tough Guard, anyone else seen these? I havent seen a Purolator or M1 one yet to compare.
So I picked up the Fram Tough Guard, anyone else seen these? I havent seen a Purolator or M1 one yet to compare.
Quote from one review2011LT2 said:
"Fram oil filters are notoriously awful in construction quality. The end caps are cardboard for crying out loud! Bits of cardboard flake off and bind up in engine parts causing damage. Fram also advertises that their filters are impregnated with PTFE (Teflon). Teflon is a solid plastic that melts together in the oil passages and forms a clot. PTFE is discusses in more detail on the engine oil web page. Fram oil filters are a proven way to ruin Chrysler 2.0L engines"
This review was for a canister filter so the drop in filter will have some different characteristics but from what I've read you should avoid Fram like the plague.
I'm no expert but my choices based on much research would be Mobil 1 M1C-151, KN 7000, Wix 57082, NAPA Gold (same as wix), AC Delco PF457G (made by Champion who makes the Mobil 1 filter) and the PureOne PL 15436 (if you change it every 3,000 miles or less). Actually I have used nothing but Mobil 1 for years; do they cost more you bet but I'm willing to pay the difference. I buy the "oil change kit" from Advanced Auto Parts when they have the Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic and the Mobil 1 filter on sale for around $33.
As always just my opinion.
I compared the construction of the Tough Gaurd Fram to the Hengst in the vehicle from factory and they were very close to the same, which the Super Tech and Delco were different.
This Fram had no cardboard, and its better than their standard line. In the future I will probably use the Mobil1 or Wix/Napa, which is what I normally use.
This Fram had no cardboard, and its better than their standard line. In the future I will probably use the Mobil1 or Wix/Napa, which is what I normally use.
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Boloney. Fram does make their filters as cheap as possible, but the 'fiber' end cap (not cardboard) will not 'flake off'. PTFE is a plastic I guess, but it won't harm the engine. It won't do it any good either. It's just one style of filter that uses the Teflon.
People have been using the 'Orange Can of Death' for millions of miles for many years and they aren't causing any more problems than any other filter. I've used them since 1963 through 1994. I moved up to the Fram 'tough guard' filter since.
The main complaint against Fram's Orange can (not the cartridge) is it's cheaply made and you can get a better filter for less money elsewhere.
that's my 2¢
fram cartridge filters are junk...many mazda 3 drivers had them collapse on them.....forced alot of hardcore drivers to convert to spin on filters......their spin ons (orange) are decent, far from good...just cheap; if thats what your aim is.....pureones have the best filtration along with wix....ive been taking my oil changes longer and longer...currently at about 7-8k.....with pennz plat, and pureone
read up over on bobistheoilguy...
and im sure over the years, fram has changed their design to maximize profits, so those filters back in the 60's probably evolved to something better, now they are back to using cardboard like they did back then....as the mighty wu tang clan says, cash rules everything around me....and that includes oil filter construction...
read up over on bobistheoilguy...
and im sure over the years, fram has changed their design to maximize profits, so those filters back in the 60's probably evolved to something better, now they are back to using cardboard like they did back then....as the mighty wu tang clan says, cash rules everything around me....and that includes oil filter construction...
And when comparing filters, the Fram Tough Guard seemed the best quality and most like the factory filter. That was compared to ACDelco and SuperTech, both of which had less exposed filter element. And the Fram Tough Gaurd actually cost more than the ACDelco.
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How important is it to change the O-ring that rolls onto the cap? I'd been checking out my local Walmart stock and the ACDelcos I opened didn't include that ring. The ST 9018 did have the ring so thats what I picked up to be safe.
I dont think its important if its not damaged or dry. I did not regularly change it on our Ford Escape either. I noticed the same thing about the Delco not having it, but I also noticed how cheap the Delco seemed. The FRAM TG 9018 had the O-ring and looked like the factory filter with the entire element exposed for what I would beleive to provide better oil flow, or longer life anyway.
FYI
The Delco filter at wal-mart is not the same as the one from say advance auto or someplace like that. The GM part number on the two boxes are different. Also the boxes are different as you can't just open the box with the correct GM number- It is glued, not flip top. Both boxes have PF457G on them but wal-mart's does not have the GM 12605566 number, it has something different. The wal-mart filter is also made in Bulgaria and is made different. The one from advance auto with the correct GM number is made by Hengst and is the exact OEM filter. So when you think you're going with OEM and you purchase from wal-mart - guess again.
The Delco filter at wal-mart is not the same as the one from say advance auto or someplace like that. The GM part number on the two boxes are different. Also the boxes are different as you can't just open the box with the correct GM number- It is glued, not flip top. Both boxes have PF457G on them but wal-mart's does not have the GM 12605566 number, it has something different. The wal-mart filter is also made in Bulgaria and is made different. The one from advance auto with the correct GM number is made by Hengst and is the exact OEM filter. So when you think you're going with OEM and you purchase from wal-mart - guess again.
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Ouch!! Thanks for that info. Advance may get more of my business. Pep Boys has the purolator filter for $8.502011LT2 said:
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