GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner

21 - 40 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,473 Posts
I can't seem to find the site but I was reading up on how the pcv getting plugged was happening on some of the vehicles back in 2004. They would replace the cap with a breathable cap to stop the seals from blowing as part of the recall/TSB. I ordered one and have only used it for 20-30 miles so far. The part # ACDelco FC219 is for the 2.4. Is this a sufficient way to relieve the pressure if the pcv were to get plugged on the Equinox more specifically?

Yes . . the FC219 is available on many websites form $10 to $25. It fits the Equinox as well as other GM cars and trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I can't seem to find the site but I was reading up on how the pcv getting plugged was happening on some of the vehicles back in 2004. They would replace the cap with a breathable cap to stop the seals from blowing as part of the recall/TSB. I ordered one and have only used it for 20-30 miles so far. The part # ACDelco FC219 is for the 2.4. Is this a sufficient way to relieve the pressure if the pcv were to get plugged on the Equinox more specifically?

Yes . . the FC219 is available on many websites form $10 to $25. It fits the Equinox as well as other GM cars and trucks.
I have the fc219 cap. it has a small valve on the bottom. not sure how the valve works. I blow through it and it doesn't seem to let air out. maybe it does but I m not sure. if it does its suttle and hard to notice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Thanks for the confirmation. Mine has a new intake and I'm pretty sure the orifice was drilled bigger per the TSB. But I guess the cap is probably a good idea anyways.
I also tried blowing through it but was unable. I can't remember what I read the pressure had to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Can anyone verify if there is supposed to be air pressure coming from the oil fill cap when removed and engine running?
Post #38 here https://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php#/topics/26089?page=4
says this is normal. I'm new to the Equinox myself but I always have heard a way to test that it's working is remove oil cap and place a piece of cardboard over hole, suction meant the pcv is functioning correctly - can anyone confirm this on the Equinox specifically?
my eco 2.4 blows out with the cap off. pretty sure it is normal. I ve been using this cap all winter with no issues

https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepa...o-SS-ZL1-LSA-LSx-LS1-5-7-LS3-6-2L-766p212.htm

it's designed to work with pcv systems and release abnormal crank pressures. please read this entire thread

I also bought the fc219 oil cap but when I blow through the office I don't feel that it really lets out pressure so not sure how effective it is. I'll stick to the cfm for now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,334 Posts
Does anyone know if this "breather cap" is needed/recommended on the 1.5L gas engine ? Is it the same cap as the 2.4L engine ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
Does anyone know if this "breather cap" is needed/recommended on the 1.5L gas engine ? Is it the same cap as the 2.4L engine ?
LOL! Trying to get out in front of the next 'rear main seal disaster'? I don't blame you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Hey guys, just a heads up, we've added an Nox specific listing for the breather. We've had quite a few of you contact us about them and the guys that have them are pretty happy.

https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepa...-Equinox-GMC-Terrain-2-4L-Ecotec-720p6443.htm

If you have any questions, let me know!
Chris so there is not any slight difference between the ls and equinox specific cap? I find the ls cap kinda hard to take off and screw on all the way. almost wish it was a better fit. I fear it may eventually damage the oil cap housing which seems to be plastic
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Chris so there is not any slight difference between the ls and equinox specific cap? I find the ls cap kinda hard to take off and screw on all the way. almost wish it was a better fit. I fear it may eventually damage the oil cap housing which seems to be plastic
Its the same base, just added a listing so Equinox owners can easily find it. It's meant to be snug, usually its the oring that gives it that tight feeling. We've got a guy that run these on his Traverse and Equinox and fit is the same between them all. For the most part manufacturers (ex. GM) don't really switch up the oil cap style. This is why you guys found that the Camaro/LS breathers worked for your Nox.

I'll get an OEM cap coming to double check and make sure we're not missing anything, thanks for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,334 Posts
I'll get an OEM cap coming to double check and make sure we're not missing anything, thanks for your input.

Can you also look into my question earlier in this thread ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Is this happening to the 6 cylinders as well? I was in the market and test drove a 4 cylinder, the whole engine compartment had a film of oil, the valve cover had pools of oil. I went with the 6.
I went through this whole scenario with my 2008 outlook and the PCV system. I remember driving on many 10 degree trips and having to open up the air intake to dry it out, before I found out about the PCV mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,473 Posts
Is this happening to the 6 cylinders as well? I was in the market and test drove a 4 cylinder, the whole engine compartment had a film of oil, the valve cover had pools of oil. I went with the 6.
I went through this whole scenario with my 2008 outlook and the PCV system. I remember driving on many 10 degree trips and having to open up the air intake to dry it out, before I found out about the PCV mod.

No .. it has not really happened with the 3.6L LFX V6, although early on, GM had a TSB to enlarge the PCV orifice. The V6 has a PCV path pretty much the same as engines had since PCV was initiated.

In any case, not a bad idea to clean the path now and then, at least the tube and orifice coming from the valve cover nearest the firewall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Can you also look into my question earlier in this thread ?
RIT333, Not sure if the 1.5L has the same PCV issues, but being turbocharged the breather will definitely help. Forced induction engines will generate positive crankcase pressure under boost, so venting that pressure is beneficial.

If the 1.5L uses the same oil cap style as the 2.4L then the breather will fit (also presuming there is adequate clearance) Pm me some pics of the bottom of your oil cap from different angles. We can work together on confirming fitment for the 1.5L
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
important update and bad news!

the temps have been very cold. I took off the breather cap this morning. the check ball was frozen shut to the valve device due to oil sludge and moisture. this prevents the cap from breathing and it is possible you could still blow the rear main seal, unless you take the cap off every startup to release the frozen shut check ball. I suspected this would happen early on in this thread and it came true. the question is, will are engines remain safe only if the amount of force to release the frozen shut check ball is less the force required to push out the rear main seal? I find releasing the frozen check ball to be a hassle especially early in the morning. beets an engine rebuild though

cfm Chris you should update the breather cap for a frozen proof breather cap and maybe throw me a few million when you get rich cause I m the original guy to contact you and to try your cap which some how led you here!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,473 Posts
important update and bad news!

I was wondering if that would happen also. Since that yellow water emulsion **** builds up on the under side of the regular oil fill caps on most vehicles.


Maybe an "Oil-Watrer Separator Catch Can" is needed for the vented filler cap? :plain:
Or a small heater element built in around it? No. . . that might drain or weaken the battery over night and compromise starting. ..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,441 Posts
important update and bad news!

the question is, will are engines remain safe only if the amount of force to release the frozen shut check ball is less the force required to push out the rear main seal? I find releasing the frozen check ball to be a hassle especially early in the morning. beets an engine rebuild though

!
I would guess that the rear main seal would go first.
More surface area for the air to grab onto.
If your check ball is frozen shut it would be like it was inside an ice cube.

Take the oil cap in the house with you at night and it will be ready to install when you leave in the morning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JayTee2014

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,473 Posts
I would guess that the rear main would go first.
More surface area for the air to grab onto.
If your check ball is frozen shut it would be like inside it was in an ice cube.

Take the oil cap in the house with you at night and it will be ready to install when you leave in the morning.

But does that mean he would have to take it off and into work with the car outside on a cold parking lot during the day also? Since driving it to work, school, etc and then letting it sit would establish new water vapor build up . .. . freeze . . .. etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
important update and bad news!

the question is, will are engines remain safe only if the amount of force to release the frozen shut check ball is less the force required to push out the rear main seal? I find releasing the frozen check ball to be a hassle especially early in the morning. beets an engine rebuild though

!
I would guess that the rear main seal would go first.
More surface area for the air to grab onto.
If your check ball is frozen shut it would be like it was inside an ice cube.

Take the oil cap in the house with you at night and it will be ready to install when you leave in the morning.
my concern was when I started my car this morning i heard no air coming through the valve, cause I removed the air filter part.when i took the cap off I discovered that the check ball was frozen to the valve, i d estimate it took maybe 1lb of force to knock the ball free with my pen. so once the ball was free I then reinstalled the cap, without the air filter and it was working as it should. put the air filter on and all is well. so the question is will the engine blow the ball free first (it wasnt ice cube frozen, just 1lb of force frozen) or is the rear seal just gonna go? interested to hear what people think
 
21 - 40 of 59 Posts
Top