I realize that I may be asking a dumb question, but have you tried changing the oil?
May have a blocked passage.
Did you use a good synthetic?
Pennzoil Platinum is on sale at Walmart and $2 a quart rebate. So only $13 for a jug.
It has some better cleaning abilities. Very good oil.
The previous owner may have had crappy oil in it.

Another thought is the wiring/connection. Getting the proper voltage?

Just a couple of thoughts.

 

Whats your opinion on Quakerstate Synthetic Oil? Thats what I use

 

Going to try the oil today also going to run some cleaner they it before I dump it to give it the best chance thanks for the response

 

Rbarrios is a better one to ask.
His quote here about the Pennzoil.
"On the 3.6L V6's....
Back in 2009, 2010.....

Owners who did UOA, found that Mobil 1, shed more iron than Penn Platinum.

(2009- Direct Injection debuted on the 3.6 for the Acadia,Enclave, Traverse)....
also one of the years for timing chain issues on the 2009s.


what owners found that- when they went from Mobil 1 to Penn Platinum- with similar oil change intervals... iron levels in the UoA actually dropped....
They switched to PP.
Some of these owners were in cold country. Witch led to Fuel dilution. PP seemed to be better for that too if I recall correctly.

On my 2010... I continue to use regular Valvoline conventional. (the 2009/2010 did not require Dexos).
But we also found that for some reason, Valvoline Conventional works GREAT @ 5000 mile intervals.
My iron #s are quite low as compared to vehicles running Synthetic.
A few other owners also changed to Valvoline Conventional and reported the same.... does a great job for 5000 mile intervals.


Though--- dont know if others have noticed the same for the 4cyl and Mobil1/PP"

Different vehicles have different needs.
Pennzoil Platinum is a very good oil AND it's cheap with the rebate.
Quaker State is made by the same company but different formulas and base stocks.
THINK I read that they are using Pennzoil old formula for Quaker State now but would have to look that up. Old formula was really good too.

I was thinking Pennzoil Platinum for this gentleman because it has some extra detergents than others I believe...And it's cheap.

Check out Bob is the oil guy website and look under uoa forum link. You have to join to do searches, but it is free.

Also, there is this.

http://pqiamerica.com/index.html

They test oils off the shelf.

 

When I did go to the dealer to do my oil changes, I saw that they had Quaker state synthetic on the shelf. So I kept buying that at walmart or wherever as I assume thats what the dealer was using. On sale, its around $30 for the 5 QT jug

 

I realize that I may be asking a dumb question, but have you tried changing the oil?
May have a blocked passage.
Did you use a good synthetic?
Pennzoil Platinum is on sale at Walmart and $2 a quart rebate. So only $13 for a jug.
It has some better cleaning abilities. Very good oil.
The previous owner may have had crappy oil in it.

Another thought is the wiring/connection. Getting the proper voltage?

Just a couple of thoughts.

Anything I should run through it to try to clean the oil passages before I dump the oil ?

Only asking because now that I think about it
One of the cam actuators was quite dry in comparison to the other


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Tried and oil change with no luck if anyone has any insight on this topic i would really appreciate it


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Tried and oil change with no luck if anyone has any insight on this topic i would really appreciate it


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I'm going to go by your original code (P0017)

P0017 Engine Code (via https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017)

Causes may include: Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing belt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
A mis-built or mis-timed engine
A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees

Based on research on the acadia forums, it looks like this code has to do with the Timing Chain or Crankshaft position. Both things involve pulling out the engine and tearing it down, which, from what I've read, sucks. Did you actually change out the sensors for new ones or were you just swapping them around? Where is the "rattle" coming from on the engine? Passenger or driver's side?

Also, what is the mileage? Are you able to clear the code with the OBDII reader and see if it comes back after a while (provided your SUV is driveable)?.

 

Tried and oil change with no luck if anyone has any insight on this topic i would really appreciate it


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Sorry, I'm tapped out on ideas.
If timing chain is tight, that is good.
Hate to say this, but a trip to a good mechanic may be needed. I don't know what warranties you have left on it but it may pay to have the dealer diagnosis. There are extended warranties out there regarding our vehicles.
If not covered, you can always take your diagnosis to an independent shop for a cheaper repair or do it yourself.

 

I'm going to go by your original code (P0017)

P0017 Engine Code (via https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017)

Based on research on the acadia forums, it looks like this code has to do with the Timing Chain or Crankshaft position. Both things involve pulling out the engine and tearing it down, which, from what I've read, sucks. Did you actually change out the sensors for new ones or were you just swapping them around? Where is the "rattle" coming from on the engine? Passenger or driver's side?

Also, what is the mileage? Are you able to clear the code with the OBDII reader and see if it comes back after a while (provided your SUV is driveable)?.

I was swapping the sensors and actuators around and resetting the code every time I start or drive it the same code is re-thrown for the exhaust bank one I swap the sensors from intake to exhaust with no change every time I reset it is the P0017 exhaust code no warranty coverage 72,000 miles

The noise is coming from the drive belt side of the engine (The timing cover side)
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Sorry, I'm tapped out on ideas.
If timing chain is tight, that is good.
Hate to say this, but a trip to a good mechanic may be needed. I don't know what warranties you have left on it but it may pay to have the dealer diagnosis. There are extended warranties out there regarding our vehicles.
If not covered, you can always take your diagnosis to an independent shop for a cheaper repair or do it yourself.

Would the timing chain be noticeably loose? Or is it possible that it is only loose the motor is hot?


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Would the timing chain be noticeably loose? Or is it possible that it is only loose the motor is hot?


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I believe that it is the other way. It might have a slight give when it is cold.
I am now going through an oil consumption test. My car sucked down 2 quarts in 1,000 miles. I just purchased it in November. Now has 61,500 miles on it.
Previous owners treated it like crap.
Talked to the tech at my dealer. He said that they most likely did not put in good oil and probably waited too long to change it.
Mobile 1 was put in by the dealer I bought it from and my recent change was with Pennzoil ultra platinum. Both turned dark fast and got cruddy.
The tech said that the oil is working and cleaning it out. May take several oil changes before I have a clean engine.
I was experiencing rpm jumps and loss of power for a bit due to low oil.

 

I believe that it is the other way. It might have a slight give when it is cold.
I am now going through an oil consumption test. My car sucked down 2 quarts in 1,000 miles. I just purchased it in November. Now has 61,500 miles on it.
Previous owners treated it like crap.
Talked to the tech at my dealer. He said that they most likely did not put in good oil and probably waited too long to change it.
Mobile 1 was put in by the dealer I bought it from and my recent change was with Pennzoil ultra platinum. Both turned dark fast and got cruddy.
The tech said that the oil is working and cleaning it out. May take several oil changes before I have a clean engine.
I was experiencing rpm jumps and loss of power for a bit due to low oil.

Any codes though?


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Any codes though?


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No codes at all.
All along I knew there was a problem but no codes.
Sometimes it seems that the computer will wait for a catastrophic event before giving a CEL.

I apparently can't tell that my engine is down 2 quarts :facepalm:

 

I believe that it is the other way. It might have a slight give when it is cold.

Help me out here - I always assumed that things stretched/lengthened when they got hotter, which would make me think that the timing chain would be tighter when cold. What am I missing ?

Thanks for the education !

 

Help me out here - I always assumed that things stretched/lengthened when they got hotter, which would make me think that the timing chain would be tighter when cold. What am I missing ?

Thanks for the education !

I think it has to do with the tensioner. With a warm engine and oil, it works better to keep the timing chain tight. Why it is louder on cold starts.

 

I think it has to do with the tensioner. With a warm engine and oil, it works better to keep the timing chain tight. Why it is louder on cold starts.

The tensioner runs on oil pressure? Cause mine gets louder as it warms up


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The tensioner runs on oil pressure? Cause mine gets louder as it warms up


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Yes it can. While I don't know if our vehicles do but since it uses oil pressure to run other parts, probably the tensioner too.
Here is a really good read on this.
http://www.testingautos.com/when-does-the-timing-chain-need-to-be-replaced

Also, apparently, this video is what a bad tensioner sounds like.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dqb3eHXNuoHQ&ved=0ahUKEwje6buH183SAhUL4IMKHfN0DjQQwqsBCBwwAA&usg=AFQjCNF_OAOP1Q2LUFCjakx5TEWSPXcvkA&sig2=xZdAyZX7tOn5iPz0Ft4Ypw