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As in it is going to require taking the timing chain back off like it's something on the inside of the motor. Probably the Actuator possibly the reluctor spun.
 

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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
As in it is going to require taking the timing chain back off like it's something on the inside of the motor. Probably the Actuator possibly the reluctor spun.
Right so really the only last two things I could replace to fix this are the exhaust VVT sprocket, and the exhaust camshaft itself. If it was you, would you just order up both and switch them out?

Unless of course it's a software or wiring issue in which case shoot me now
 

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I would replace those non acdelco solenoids... Make sure you get acdelco brand everything, you don't absolutely need to replace the actuators just need to make sure they are working properly by locking to the cams/ be in the correct position to lock when you shut off the motor. When you do the work make sure your tdc #1 cylender on the EXHAUST stroke make sure the notches on the cams are in the correct position not the arrows on the actuators. Then put on the actuators when locked I would inspect them and soak them in oil... Line up the arrows dead center on the colored links... Alot of times if the reluctor spins the car wont start/ run really bad. It's a pressed on part but alot less likely to fail than an actuator. Does the car make any strange noises when you first start it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok thanks, I'll start with new AC Delco solenoids, Is there an easy way to tell if the actuators locked to the cams in the correct position?

It doesn't make any strange sounds on startup, though it did before doing the timing chain job. If the check engine light wasn't on I would wouldn't know there's anything wrong with the vehicle.
 

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Yea you could put a open end crescent wrench on the cams right behind the actuators and turn either direction... Not enough to rotate the motor and not hard enough to break anything just a wrench right there move the cam gear left and right a few degrees... And make sure it's stuck to the gear and not moving freely... Don't spin the whole motor backwards.
 

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Hi guys,

Trying to diagnose a p0017 code on my 2012 equinox and checked the wiring to the cam position sensor on the back of the engine.

With the ignition set to acc and the sensor connected the 3 wires are showing middle white as ground, green as 0.72v constant, and yellow as 5v switched (as I pass it infront of metal).

With the sensor disconnected I am getting 5v to the green and yellow and ground appears to be working.

The green is supposed to be showing 12v with ignition on isn't it? Is it possible I have both broken wiring and a dead sensor?

Can I bypass the PCM on the green constant and run it directly to the battery positive or another good acc 12v source?

Beside the code, were there any other symptoms?
 

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I borrowed a code reader at work, it's sending P0017 again. I've tried clearing it but it keeps coming back.

The car runs flawlessly and has a smooth idle unlike before the timing chain job.

Any ideas?
Thanks for your help
One of the linked videos talks about a nylon liner (??) that’s supposedly attached to that top chain guide (where the chain goes horizontally from bank to bank, and where you were jiggling the chain to show its slack). The linked video said the nylon piece sometimes disappears due to the slackened chain beating on it before getting replaced. I wonder if this plastic material, plus any plastic material from any other Guides that have cracked, failed, or otherwise disappeared, can cause chronic issues post-repair with oil flow through those Solenoids or Tensioners (that rely on oil flow to operate properly) with tiny fragments of plastic living in the system for multiple oil changes afterwards?

Maybe after a Timing Chain replacement, if you’ve had internal plastic pieces disappear into the system, you should do several quick oil changes afterwards to try to get all those particles out. Or at least pull the Solenoids and check/clean their screens?
 
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2012 Equinox LT 2.4l
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Pre timing chain job the car had a rattle sound and a noticable stutter when idling.

Cam position sensor has been replaced with a new one.

The previous upper chain guide appeared to have the nylon in tact but I didn't take a close look at it, I've ordered an acdelco exhaust cam sprocket and exhaust actuator, going to swap both out and do some oil flushes at approx the 100km mark.
When I ahve the engine apart I'll take a look and see if the exhaust reluctor wheel has spun (really should have done this last time I had it apart><)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Update:

Sadly the new exhaust actuator did not clear the P0017 code.

Next up, the exhaust phaser/sprocket. I'm going to take a video and check the sprocket and reluctor wheel and post what I find during the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Working on replacing the exhaust sprocket, took a quick clip of the reluctor wheel everything looks good I think.

 

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Font Material property Circle Technology Parallel

These are notches on the camshafts not the arrows on the gear that align with the colored links.
Poster Font Art Circle Rectangle

I think the silver plated link or different colored one matches up with the crank and the 2 same colored links line up with the arrows on the cam gears... Your timing valve timing looks off to me but I have a 2010 its different if I do take off cam gears you need new bolts new crank bolt too. Reluctor looks fine.... Its not able to move freely at all from the cam right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Reluctor is solid to the cam, those notches on the cams are just for aligning the timing before installing a timing chain and engaging the cam sprockets.

From everything I've read so far the unique colored link aligns with the intake sprocket arrow. If your timing chains colored links align with the cam and crank indicators properly than your engine is "in time" or so I've been told.
 
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