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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm about due (per window sticker) for an oil change on the new-to-me 2015 GMC Terrain SLE (2.4L) w AWD.

The general consensus seems to be "change the oil early and often" to keep it running long term.
I've noticed that that unlike my previous vehicles, the owners manual doesn't seem to have a "chart" giving options of oil per temperatures. (5w20, 5w30 if temperatures were going to be X, etc).

The only mention seems to be "use indicated" and a mention of Dexos.
So should I be using semi-synthetic??
Full synthetic??
Am I changing every 3months/3000 with synth?
Longer?

My wife is insisting I take it to a shop for oil changes, due to "liability". So if THEY screw up, they pay for it.

I'm hoping to find a way to change oil that doesn't break the bank.
 

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Costco now sells full synthetic that is pretty good and excellent price.
Or use walmart to buy oil at lower prices. Much cheaper if you buy the 5qt jugs vs individual 1 qt bottles.
I still use oem acdelco filters.
Either walmart or i order a bunch and add to my orders on rockauto.
Doing your own oil.. is pretty cheap.
I return used oil and filters to auto parts stores or take to household hazardous waste roundup.
You can do a nice full syn oil change for about $20-$25 by buying the stuff on sale etc and stocking up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That was my thought, to do it myself. I haven't changed oil since my 1985 Monte Carlo. I used to have a pair of ramps, but they got thrown out years ago.

I was going to get 4 jackstands and my wife freaked out, saying that even mechanics can make mistakes and to have a shop do it.
 

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There may be some youtube videos. And some threads on here.
I have the v6.. so can recommend any tips on that engine
 

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Don't know how accessible the drain plug and filter are, but you don't need to put the car on four jack stands. If things can't be reached with the car sitting on the ground, and if your street has concrete curbs, try driving onto the curb (parallel with it) with one front wheel and adjust position until it's more or less level.

This should get you adequate crawl space without wobbly jack stands or incorrect placement, and it's not going to collapse on you. Used this procedure on my 2019 Terrain and it worked perfectly.

Tom
 

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2015 Equinox LT 2.4L AWD / 2009 Torrent GT 3.4L AWD
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You can get to the drain plug with four on the floor from behind the front wheels. Turn the wheels all the way to gain easy access. The Nox can't get on my ramps because of the air dam underneath so I have been doing that since I used up my free oil changes from the dealership. The oil filter is easy to get to, just a plastic screw top but need a 32mm socket. Just did one yesterday, the user manual calls for 4.7L oil (almost 5 quarts) but oil on the dipstick not even reaches the harsh marks. I usually put in 4.75L to reach the top of the harsh marks.
 

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I have a 2011 2.4L Terrain and my Mother has 2015 3.6L V6 Terrain. I change the oil on both. Just buy your self some rhino ramps or something similar and do it yourself. It is extremely easy on the Terrains. On the 2.4L I recommend buying the oil filter housing socket if you don't already have one, here is one on amazon. I have sent my oil off to blackstone labs a handful of times and IMO 5,000-6,000 is the sweet spot for the 2.4L. The OLM will max out at 7,500 but fuel dialation sets in on these engines around 5k-6k which can thin the viscoity of the oil, that is why I recommend the 5k-6k change. the oil drain plug is a 15mm. Also a little tip, GM recommends not changing the O-Ring on the oil filter housing. That is why the OEM filters do not come with one. The OEM O-ring is green, if it is not green then it has probably been replaced, so in that case do replace it with the new filter or buy an OEM O-Ring and don't change it again. The OEM O-Ring part number is 12580255

And to your other question, the 2.4L takes 5qt of Dexos approved 5w-30. Brand doesn't matter as long as its Dexos approved.
 

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'16 Equinox LTZ AWD 3.6
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Full synth oils will never let you down. I've gone back to the AC filters. Was a Wix user until Mann bought them and had filter leaking issues on all of them in my fleet last winter.
My last 2.4 motor was in a Malibu and I took it to 220k miles and sold it running fine using WM or Costco full synth. oils changed by the OLM. OLM never lets the mileage go over 7500 before zeroing out. I change at 10% remaining oil life.
 

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2017 Equinox LT 2.4 FWD
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I had Blackstone run a UOA last fall on my wife's 17 Nox with the 2.4 l. After 4900 miles of mainly short trip driving their report showed a 2.5% fuel dilution rate and the viscosity indices were slightly below the minimum thresholds. I'll be sticking with 3500 mile OCI's in the future to keep the fuel dilution below 2%. Unfortunately last fall's oil change will be my last DIY oil change as age and arthritis have caught up with me. Had the dealer do the last oil change and tire rotation in July, they seemed to do a decent job, but the big bonus is that my bones didn't scream at me for 2 days like they did after my last DIY oil change.
 

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Unfortunately last fall's oil change will be my last DIY oil change as age and arthritis have caught up with me. Had the dealer do the last oil change and tire rotation in July, they seemed to do a decent job, but the big bonus is that my bones didn't scream at me for 2 days like they did after my last DIY oil change.
Doesn't it suck getting older? I remember 40 years ago not thinking twice about putting my car up on four jack stands, crawling under, and yanking the transmission (alone!!) Now my DIY is limited to oil and filter changes.

Tom
 
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2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L FWD 174.6k miles
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My 2011 Nox is the first vehicle that I don't have to put up on ramps to change the oil ... but with the low air dam in front, even I cannot comfortably shimmy underneath from the front end, so I drive onto a pair of old brake discs (with the larger diameter end facing upward). This extra 2" gives me the room I need. Then I set the Parking Brake, and chock the back wheels.

For oil, my 3.0L Nox takes 6 quarts, so I've been buying the Havoline Full Synthetic that comes in a 6-Quart Box (at Walmart). And for Oil Filters, I bought at least a dozen a while back from Rock Auto ... made by ProTec (??). They seem pretty solidly built ... remind me of the Purolator filters I used to use ... longer than the very short filter, but shorter than the very long filters that jam up against the Fan Shrouding. Medium-sized ... fit in there good. Not recommending these for later-model Equinoxes and Terrains as GM changed the spec on the Oil Filters around 2013 (IIRC), claiming tighter clearances, etc. ... but I think they're OK for the 2010-2012 models.

But to answer your question ... I'd use "Full Synthetic", and I'd change it every 3500 miles if I owned that 2.4L engine. And I'd be checking the level religiously in between oil changes, too - something I've never done even once in between oil changes in over 30 years now ... even when the engines have been run past 222,222 miles! Have always trusted my engines to not excessively use oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The current oil, when I checked it was in the middle of the hatchmark. I topped it off to be at the top of hatching.

I know the current oil was done at the stealership on 06/24/2022.
 

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2012 terrain 2.4 ecotec flexer
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Direct injection and poorly designed PCV system screams for oil with a low NOACK value in these 2.4 engines. The lower number indicates a high quality oil and less volitilty to vaporize and clog PCV system and coat intake valves. Pennzoil ultra Platinum is a really good oil made from natural gas which is cleaner than crude and has a really low NOACK value. I would continue 3000k oil changes in these engines. Cheap insurance.
 

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2012 GMC Terrian 2.4L Ecotec LEA 125k Miles
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I would continue 3000k oil changes in these engines. Cheap insurance.
@Pistol Pete

👍 Agree,

I changed my oil yesterday at 4300 miles (this thread helped remind me). The oil was black and smelled like a lawnmower. I have my spreadsheet to alert me at 3,000 miles and will be adhering to that. Couple things about an oil change while it's on my mind.

Preparation
Nitrate gloves, shop towels, oil, filter, 15mm wrench, socket, T25, vacuum, drain pan, 5 gallon bucket, and cardboard

Execution
Put on gloves
Put drain pan on card board slide under car.
Break drain plug torque with 15mm
Slide cardboard with drain pan on it under the plug
Remove plug wipe oil of plug and hand with towel
Go to top of car remove oil cap
Using socket remove oil filter cover
Install new filter on cover
Place cover and filter onto engine, screw in hand right.
Using ratchet and socket tighten the filter cover.
Using T25 remove airbox cover and vacuum the box (replace filter).
Replace cabin filter inside the glove box.
Install drain plug by hand, tighten with 15mm wrench.
Fill engine with 5 qrts.
Carefully remove pull on cardboard with oil drain pan on it
Place 5 gallon bucket on cardboard pour drained oil into bucket
Run engine look for oil light to clear

Administration
Reset oil life clock
Reset calendar or spreadsheets
Document maintenance with date and mileage
 

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2015 Equinox LT 2.4L AWD / 2009 Torrent GT 3.4L AWD
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I always apply a light coat of oil to the gasket on the filter cap.

I only check my air filter at the fourth oil change because they are hardly getting dirty. Cabin filter is a different story, I have to replace it about every third oil change.
 

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6000 miles is way way too long of an interval for the 2.4. Stick to something between 3k to 5k. Yes these DI engines will dilute the oil. Think of frequent oil changes as an insurance policy. A friend used to work at a GM dealership and they would recommend 4500 mile intervals. Much over that and they were changing timing chains for those who pushed the limits.
 
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