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Just wondering do u go by miles / kilometers or by Oil Life thingy...Im at 4700km's and still oil life at 54% So fighting off urge to do oil change by kilometers and go by oil life thing a ma gig .... having second thoughts bout it............
 

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jls1958 said:
Just wondering do u go by miles / kilometers or by Oil Life thingy...Im at 4700km's and still oil life at 54% So fighting off urge to do oil change by kilometers and go by oil life thing a ma gig .... having second thoughts bout it............
Go by the OLM on the DIC and you'll be fine. There is no logical reason to go by a set mileage anymore.
 

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Will this be your first oil change? 4700km?
 

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jls1958 said:
Just wondering do u go by miles / kilometers or by Oil Life thingy...Im at 4700km's and still oil life at 54% So fighting off urge to do oil change by kilometers and go by oil life thing a ma gig .... having second thoughts bout it............
I would too, assuming this would be the first oil change on the brand new motor, I would change out at 4,500 or 5,000 km's.

It's good to get the 'old' oil out at this milage from any impurities from manufacturing etc.

Seals and rings have all settled in and set themselves by this point, so changing out the breaking in oil at this milage is not uncommon.

I'll be doing mine around 1,500k and then again at around 4,500k but that's just me.

Cheers [/color]
 

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Like OnxBear, I would do the first oil change at 1000 miles or sooner. Then after that I normally change twice a year or 7500 miles on my 6 cyl....... maybe more often if I had the 4 cyl.

I'd like to try Amsoil's once a year or 15k mile oil, but can't bring myself to do it. Old school I guess, I can't imagine going that long between changes. Who knows, some day maybe.
 

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GARYD said:
Like OnxBear, I would do the first oil change at 1000 miles or sooner. Then after that I normally change twice a year or 7500 miles on my 6 cyl....... maybe more often if I had the 4 cyl.

I'd like to try Amsoil's once a year or 15k mile oil, but can't bring myself to do it. Old school I guess, I can't imagine going that long between changes. Who knows, some day maybe.
We use Amsoil exclusively (except for the bikes) GARYD, but like you, we don't go near the 15k mark either, 'old school' for sure,,, lol [/color]
 

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I use Amsoil products in all my vehicles...especially my Harley. Also use it in my snowblower and lawnmower. I became a dealer to save money because I use so much. ;D
 

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I'm glad I signed in... That was my question, too - when to change oil. Manual is vague. Wondering if the Oil Life monitor is what to go by. Mine is at 61% and I have 4400 miles on her. Help!
 

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Does anybody know of the least expensive to buy Amsoil?
 

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If you use a lot of oil, you can become a dealer. Or if you don't use a lot you can get a Preferred Customer account.
I sell to the members in my HOG chapter at cost as a convenience.

If you go to Amsoil website you can look up a dealer near you and see if they give a discount. Some stores even sell Amsoil, most Harley dealers do.
 

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GARYD said:
If you use a lot of oil, you can become a dealer. Or if you don't use a lot you can get a Preferred Customer account.
I sell to the members in my HOG chapter at cost as a convenience.

If you go to Amsoil website you can look up a dealer near you and see if they give a discount. Some stores even sell Amsoil, most Harley dealers do.
There is a Harley Dealer not too far away. The Amsoil website recommends certain distributors.
 

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The only unfortunate thing about buying at a Harley dealer is the cost. You will pay full list price.

I don't know why they recommend a certain distributor over another. A dealer is a dealer is a dealer. It shouldn't matter which one you buy from.

If you really want Amsoil, call the nearest stocking dealer. Some work out of their house.
You can order on line also, you will have to pay shipping, but no tax.
 

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mytrain said:
Mine is at 61% and I have 4400 miles on her. Help!
If you have not done the first initial oil change, then do it asap.

After that then you can go by the Oil Life Monitor, provided you use at least a semi or full synthetic oil[/color]
 

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I agree
Dump that OEM oil at or around 1000k.
I have built my fair share of complete engine assemblies, at times 2 a day with oil pressure testing as well.Throw in crank grinding or balancing my days were full.

My customers are told oil is cheap for your investment.If no one has not brought it up before the high at 11-1 ratio this comes high friction as well as heat.Clean oil is a must in order to prevent piston ring or cylinder wall damage.

On the these engines the oil filter is small, very small.Personally I change it ever 2 months at this point.At $4.00 why not.

Royal Purple for me.
 

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My oil life is at 46% and I have about 5900 miles on with no oil change since I purchased the vehicle. Can I wait a little longer or go in for a change now?
 

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Personally
Like I refered to in my other post, change it before or around 1000k.

A new engine during break in will have less cylinder wall scoring with clean oil.And the first few hundered miles is what sets the piston rings.

Clean oil is the best.

As I also mentioned.
Purchase a few oil filters, good deals on 4-4 pack purolator pure one filters or WIX.At a cost of $4-$5 any one can open the hood reach over remove the filter and replace it.Yet leave the oil in.



Any filter does not matter what brand you get once they get filled then the oil bypasses the filter.With SMALL filters this happens quicker than a larger filter does.
In a average live of a average vehicle 40-50% of the time oil is bypassed due to dirty filters.Another words the filters get filled and then the bypass valve in the filter just bypasses the oil directly back into the engine with OUT being filtered.

Now this also happens on a day to day use even with new oil and filter, due to the fact the filters are NOT big enough to filter all the oil continuously.

Here is my OEM filter with less than 1000km on it.


Now side by side with a new filter.Notice the better filter material as well you can see the OEM filter media starting to compress.





Read this from WIX site.

The Filter By-Pass Valve
If a WIX full-flow filter becomes "clogged", or excessively restrictive to oil flow, the filter by-pass valve ensures continued engine lubrication by allowing the oil to by-pass the filter. Some vehicle manufacturers have the by-pass valve built into the oil filter mounting unit (located on the engine).

Other vehicle manufacturers require full-flow filters have the by-pass valve built into the filter itself. All Wix oil filter types recommended for these particular applications include the by-pass valve assembly in the filter.

By-pass Valve Assembly -- spring loaded valve assembly that allows oil to by-pass the element under high-differential pressure conditions such as cold oil and/or excessively contaminated media. This allows lubrication of the engine, but without full-flow filtration.



General Filter Facts - Oil Filters
Since 1954 when we patented the first spin-on oil filter, WIX Filters has been at the forefront of oil filter technology and performance for passenger cars, light trucks, heavy trucks and buses, and off-highway vehicles. SAE J806 tests prove that WIX oil filters hold 45% more dirt than the leading national brand - meaning we keep filtering long after the competition has completely quit. Use our Filter Look-up feature or consult you nearest WIX distributor using our Where To Buy to find the best WIX oil filter for your needs.
What the Oil Filter Does...
You may take your oil filter for granted, but this small, inexpensive part of your vehicle's lubrication system plays a vital role in protecting the engine from premature wear. Each moving part in the engine and the cylinder walls requires clean oil for proper lubrication and lasting life. The oil filter cleans the oil as it passes through the filter element or filtering media. This prevents abrasive contaminants in the engine lubrication system from damaging engine parts.

The better you understand your engine's lubrication system, the more you'll appreciate the vital role your oil filter plays. When the engine is running, oil enters the oil pump through a screened intake. The screened intake -- or oil pick-up -- is located in the crankcase near the bottom surface of the oil pan. The oil is drawn through the screen intake and forced by the oil pump through the oil filter.

Oil from the main gallery is also fed through vertical passages to the crankshaft main bearings and through the crankshaft to the rod bearings. Oil thrown from the crankshaft, or sprayed from the connecting rods, lubricates the pistons and cylinder walls.

In a typical full-flow type oil filter, the oil flows into an inlet passage and then through the filtering element. After flowing through the filter element, the filtered or "clean" oil passes directly to the main oil gallery. In a partial-flow type filter, the oil returns directly to the oil pan.

Oil from the main gallery lubricates the camshaft and the camshaft bearings (and feeds hydraulic valve lifters if used in the engine). On non-overhead cam engines, oil is metered through the valve lifter to a hollow push rod that carries oil for the lubrication of the push rod pivot point, rocker arm pivots and valve guide.
Oil Filter Media
The media is the filtering material in the oil filter element. It essentially determines the efficiency, performance and useful life of the oil filter.

There are two basic types of filter media: the "paper" media and the "depth" type media. The primary features of the filter elements are:

Particle size retention (filtration efficiency)
Particle size retention is the measure of the degree to which the filter can retain particles of various sizes. Wix has developed optimum particle size retention quality in filter media by extensive engine wear tests including exhaustive testing of filters used in racing, and sophisticated laboratory tests. Wix media in the automotive full-flow oil filter is able to trap and hold essentially all the contaminant particles larger than 25 microns. (A human hair measures approximately 70 microns in diameter. An object that is 1 micron in size is .000039 inches in diameter.) Our filters also capture a high percentage of even smaller particles.

Dirt-holding capacity
Dirt-holding capacity is the amount of contaminant that can be removed and held by the filter until the filter ceases to function. The capacity of Wix filters is significantly larger than the minimum requirements to efficiently filter all the oil during the oil and filter change periods as specified by vehicle manufacturers.

Resistance to oil flow
WIX full-flow oil filters for automotive applications use arch-pleated, prescription-blended media. When new, the media with a maximized number of pleats has less than 2 psi pressure drop when filtering oil at a rate of 4 g.p.m. at normal operating temperature. This low initial restriction to oil flow protects the vital engine parts more effectively.
Parts of an Oil Filter
Gasket - provides exterior seal between the filter and engine at the engine mounting surface.
Mounting Plate - prevents deflection (movement) at the gasket sealing surface. Heavy gage steel plate provides for threaded attachment to the engine.
Inner Element Support - provides inner element stabilization and a positive seal between the inner element and the mounting plate to prevent the bypass of unfiltered oil.
Upper End Cap - retains element end sealant and filter media, provides an outlet for clean oil, and provides structural rigidity to the pleated media.
Lower End Cap - retains element end sealant and filter media.
Arch-pleated, Prescription-blended Filter Media - provides a more than adequate filter area. The element has a controlled porosity blended media to assure complete filtration of the oil.
Spiral-wound Center Tube - provides internal element support. The spiral design greatly reduces initial flow restriction when compared to other designs.
Coiled Spring - ensures a constant load on the inner element to maintain the seal between the upper element end cap, the inner element support, and the mounting plate even during pressure surge situations.
Filter Canister - encloses the assembly with a mechanically-locked double seam. The canister provides "flutes" at the closed end for ease of removal with an oil filter wrench.
Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve - Stays flexible in extreme temperatures, improves oil flow and keeps oil in filter to prevent engine destroying dry starts. Also provides lasting protection to meet new vehicle manufacturers longer recommended oil change schedules. Nitrile valves can harden and become ineffective over time.

Some WIX full-flow filters include anti-drainback and/or filter by-pass valves. These types of filters are identical to full-flow filters, except that a by-pass valve replaces the inner element support and an anti-drainback valve has been added. The Anti-Drainback Valve prevents oil from draining out of the filter inlet holes when the engine is shut off. It also provides seal between clean and dirty oil at the upper end cap. This is necessary in applications where the oil filter is mounted in a horizontal or inverted position.
 

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slc222, dump it IMMEDIATELY!!!
 

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I just went into the dealer for my first oil change yesterday. I was @ 3,100 miles with OLM @ 40%. The original oil and filter were still pretty clean and looked good. I'll be doing Dexos oil changes according to OLM reading, but personally me before it hits 40%, just my preference. My brother is a 20+ year GM dealer mechanic and recommended it this way for me...

slc222 said:
My oil life is at 46% and I have about 5900 miles on with no oil change since I purchased the vehicle. Can I wait a little longer or go in for a change now?
 
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