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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I did my first oil change on the terrain and I thought I would share some pictures.

Step #1 drive onto a 2x12 to lift the front of the car. If you have a beer gut you might want to drive onto a pair of 2x12's or ramps. ;D


Step#2 gather your tools and supplies. You will need the following. 5 quarts of oil, a quality filter (wix), oil pan, oil filter cap socket, 15mm wrench for the drain plug, 3/8 drive ratchet for the oil filter socket, a funnel and some rags.




#3 get under the car with the 15 mm wrench, the oil bucket and a rag. The oil plug is behind the oil pan. Just a heads up!!!!! The oil shot out two feet when I removed the plug so aim better than I did with the pan ;D



#4 While the oil is draining you can change the filter. The oil filter is right behind the dipstick.

Place the special filter cap socket on it along with a 3/8 drive wrench and take off the cap. I had a rag ready but I did not spill a drop. This is what it looked like out of the car.



#5 pull the old filter from the cap and install the new filter. If the O-ring is bad change it. Mine was only a month old so I left it alone. The old one is green in the picture.




#6 install the new filter in the engine and install the cap.

#7 By this time the oil should be done dripping into the oil pan. Replace the drain plug and get ready to add the fresh oil.

#8 Take off the oil fill cap and insert the funnel. Since the 4 cylinder calls for 5 quarts I bought a 5 quart container at the store. Pour it in slowly.


#9 Record the mileage and date for your records.

#10 dispose of the old oil. I take mine to the oil change shop ;D


#11 inspect the old filter for signs of engine wear. I found a few metal shavings in mine but that is expected with the first oil change.


#12 Reset the oil life monitor. I turn the key to ignition and hit the gas pedal 3 times and it does the trick or you can reset it at the DIC page.

Congrats you are done! :)

I went with regular oil at 1070 miles and will change to synthetic at 2500 miles.
I hope this helps you out with your oil change. This car by far is as easy as it gets as far as oil changes go. Very easy to do. ;D
 

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This is great guide, thanks!
 

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Yea, its rather straight forward. I did ours on a slight incline at our old apartment complex with no ramps. Tight, but I fit.

BTW, what type of OEM filter did you have?
 

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I would add another important step :

Reset the Oil Life Remaining Indicator.

Otherwise, excellent job. Thanks.
 

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Well Done. Extremely helpful Post. Thank You!! ;D
 

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terrainasaurus said:
Where did you get the oil filter socket???
Amazon. Search for Ecotec 2.2 or 2.4 oil filter socket. Its all the same. Lisle makes it.

You can get it in a parts store but Autozone charges $19 and you can get it for $7 on amazon IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
terrainasaurus said:
Where did you get the oil filter socket???
Ebay
 

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Its not your conventional filter I see. Is it available at Walmart and what is the price. I thought I read too that you are supposed to use a new (dexros) oil. Is the o-ring readily available too?
 

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The o-ring on the oil filter cap is NOT to be replaced. The GM provided o-ring is designed for the life of the vehicle, and the ones provided with certain aftermarket filters are known to leak. Hengst is the company that actually makes that housing for GM and they also make the AC Delco filter for GM.

The AC Delco filter is available at Advance auto for $4.39.
 

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dishdude said:
The o-ring on the oil filter cap is NOT to be replaced. The GM provided o-ring is designed for the life of the vehicle, and the ones provided with certain aftermarket filters are known to leak. Hengst is the company that actually makes that housing for GM and they also make the AC Delco filter for GM.

The AC Delco filter is available at Advance auto for $4.39.
I have 1 2.2 eco tech and had another for 7 years and never replaced a ring (I did have to replace a cap that the spring insdie broke on). I did buy an OEM Hengest filter for the 2.2 and it did come with a ring. ::) I did NOT replace the ring
Scroll down on this link

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2010/chevrolet/equinox/engine_mechanical/oil_filter.html
 

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Thanks for your step by step post. After buying the oil filter socket thru Amazon, I proceeded to do my first oil change at 2700mi. I still had 79% oil life left, but I felt like removing the break in oil and filter. I went with a Wix filter and Pennsoil Ultimate 5w-30. In my opinion, this is the easiest oil change I have ever done and I've done many. Having the filter up top and accessible is a big plus. I will continue to do this myself.
 

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terrainasaurus said:
Thanks for your step by step post. After buying the oil filter socket thru Amazon, I proceeded to do my first oil change at 2700mi. I still had 79% oil life left, but I felt like removing the break in oil and filter. I went with a Wix filter and Pennsoil Ultimate 5w-30. In my opinion, this is the easiest oil change I have ever done and I've done many. Having the filter up top and accessible is a big plus. I will continue to do this myself.
I have read on a couple occasions or sources that you should not go to synthetic oil until engine reaches 10000 miles.
 

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hfdad said:
I have read on a couple occasions or sources that you should not go to synthetic oil until engine reaches 10000 miles.
And Ive heard that once you go over 100k you shouldnt switch to synthetic. You should change your oil every 3k miles.

There are lots of rumors out there and that is just a couple of them. Basically, you want to change the oil as soon as you feel the engine is done with breakin because, as these pictures show, there is a ton of crap in the motor from assembly.

Everybody has a different opinion and if you ask an old timer how often they change their oil, chances are they will still say every 3k miles. Habits are hard to break even when there is hard evidence involved.
 

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hfdad said:
I have read on a couple occasions or sources that you should not go to synthetic oil until engine reaches 10000 miles.
going syn early never shows issues....going syn over 100,150k does show issues as syn will find and permeate those cracks in your engine seals.....granted it on rare occasions.....but thats the main reason not to switch late.....
 

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gar187er said:
going syn early never shows issues....going syn over 100,150k does show issues as syn will find and permeate those cracks in your engine seals.....granted it on rare occasions.....but thats the main reason not to switch late.....
Close but not quite right.

Basically, the regular oil will keep your engine dirty for longer. When you switch to syn, it cleans out the engine and will pull the dirt and everything INTO the oil. When that happens, the syn can find a way out but it will very likely be a very small leak as if its big enough to notice, chances are it was leaking with the regular stuff as well.
 
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I did my first oil change at 2000km, when I hit 6000km I plan to do the next one and use fully synthetic. I believe at 5000km is when an engine is pretty much broken in but I'm sure everyone has differing opinions on this.

One thing I like is the resessed o-ring on the drain plug that can be used over and over again. No need scrambling for a replacement gasket or re-compressing the old one.
 

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The GM Terrain Dealer recommended the first oil change at 3000 miles. Then follow oil monitoring system. They charge $70 for a synthetic oil change. Sinful.
 

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Our oil got changed at 5000 kms.The dealer put synthetic oil in.It now has around 11000 kms on it and when I checked it last it looked pretty black so I think I will change it soon and put Pennzoil Ultra in.Is anybody following the oil life monitor or just changing it every 5000 km or 3000 miles?
 
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