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I think it's stretching the point to say the "information" you need is needed even for the dealer service people to make repairs.

You are talking modification to factory supplied hardware and firmware, not "repairs".


GM, or any car maker, is not obliged to provide changes to a vehicle wiring, use of various modules, or modifications. A dealer service department would simply replace like modules for a repair action . . . not rewire or modify what exists.

I think because of advancing technology and use of specialized modules in ALL makes of cars and trucks, you will find that specialization has made what used to be simple more complex in changing even something like sound systems.

If you want a modification, why not go to a custom installer or see if even some place like Best Buy can equip you for what you want to do?

You will find ALL car makes and brands from Ford, Toyota, Honda, etc all also more difficult to go to custom modifications. When you buy a vehicle, there are many modules interconnected and programmed to work together as a whole. Trying to change that changes the hardware and firmware identity of more than just one component.

Just because a simple module swap made things possible in 2013 models does not mean it should follow through in 2016-17. Things change from year to year.
 

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You can buy a Factory Service Manual from Helm's and then you will be as well equipped as the GM Mechanics that work on your car. I guess when they get stuck, they can call HQ and get a specialist on a particular area, but that is why you have to pay them the big bucks.

Possibly you can use Google and find someone who has already plowed the field that you are trying to go down.
 

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The information is not available anywhere, not even the dealer has it. I would be happy to pay for it. As for updating firmware no is talking about that or modifying GM's hardware. Simply trying to by pass the amp. in favor of my own choice. And as for taking it to a shop I've tried four different shops who will not touch it without a basic wiring diagram from GM. Eventually the information will make to this forum like info on past models, I don't want to wait years to make the changes to a vehicle I spend a a lot of time in now. The difference is if you buy a house and want to paint it a different color you can, but a hotel room you would not. Once you drive out of the dealership it should be your choice not GM's. It comes down to a control issue. In fact I don't believe you can even buy a GM car without Onstar installed whether you want it or not. Like I said a little cooperation goes a long way. F*** GM
 

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I find it hard to believe that 4 shops "won't touch it".

Besides. . . all you should have to do is run another pair of leads from both rear speakers to an amp in the rear hatch area. Why not pull the rear door panels yourself and see what color the wires are for each speaker and trace them back to the front and/or radio itself. Or. . . splice into the rear speaker wires once they are inside the car and run the leads back to the rear cargo area. Connect them up to the high level inputs on an outboard sub amp. Done.

You don't need "wiring diagrams" for that. Others have added a sub to earlier base trim level Equinox by doing just what I said.

Yes. . eventually wiring diagrams may appear. But if you want it now , then do it now. You do not need a wiring diagram. People have done speakers mods for years without wiring diagrams. Splice into the rear door speakers. Problem solved.
 

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Jammus said:
Removed amp completely and the rear speakers still work? How the hell is that even possible? Now I'm really confused...and frustrated. Why the big secret?

If there's less wires, it almost seems like the rear speakers are being driven directly from the radio unit? Remember, after I put in the upgraded amp, ONLY the rear speakers work. The fact that the rear speakers work with NO AMP is a clue to figuring this out, somehow.
I'm no audio expert but it seems if the rear speakers work with the amp removed ....... and only your rear speakers are working with your replacement amp ...... then the new amp is not working at all for some reason. Have you checked fuses? I'm guessing when you install your original amp all is working properly? If so then likely not a fuse unless the upgrade amp uses an additional fuse not installed if not needed in your original config?

While not experienced with audio I do work with electronics and I always return to what a very wise tech told me when I first started ..... check the simple things first. It usually is in there somewhere. I would be banging my head against the wall thinking my problem HAD to be some rare exotic issue that I would discover and become famous. Instead it was usually something very basic and simple that I overlooked. Still not famous :)

Maybe a pin in the connector is used on the new amp that was not on the old and your harness is incorrect? Would likely be pricey to purchase a harness just to compare them if not needed. Unless you can return it once you check it out ......
 

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Yes four different shops said they would not touch it. I'm not a liar. As for checking the wire colors at the rear doors I already know all the colors at every speaker. If you read my first post http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=22442.0 You would see the amp plugs and wire colors do not match the colors at the speaker location or previously posted info on this forum and have totally changed. I had a 2013 and was able to change the amp. to a (4 channel alpine) and add another sub and amp. with no problems with info from this forum. So you're not understanding what I'm asking GM for just a basic understanding of wires in to the amplification and wires out that's it. The rear speakers are no longer routed thru the amp under the drivers panel. That's why when you unplug the factory amp and remove it from the vehicle the rear speakers still work. The top of this post it is stated that after changing to the pioneer amp he no longer has front speaker,Bluetooth,ect. He only has rear speakers because the rears(2016+) are now amplified from a different source which GM will not say. In order to install line drivers I need to know where to tap the wires before any amplification. What's the big secret?
 

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It doesn't matter where the rear speakers are sourced.

If all you want to do is add a sub, pull the rear door panels, look at the wires for the speakers there, find where they enter the vehicle, follow them into the door frame, splice, feed to high level inputs on a sub amp in the rear cargo area.

No need to change to a complete whole amp for all the speakers if all a person wants is a working sub.

That, after all, is the topic of this thread. . "Make My Sub Work".

If you are talking about retro fitting an entire amp for all the speakers. .. that's another topic then and wiring might be an issue.

Other car makers also will not likely aid in making modifications to vehicle wiring from stock.
 

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JayTee2014 the problem with your suggestion is that tapping the rear speakers is after the factory amplifier which greatly affects the sound of the bass. The GM amplifier as stated by others on this forum is flabby and boomy bass which I do not care for. When you greatly reduce the bass on the radio it hollows out the sound. Read some of the other posts. To some this doesn't matter but to me it does make a big difference in over all sound quality. To get unprocessed sound you need to tap before the amplifier. This is impossible to do without basic info on where the rear speakers are being amplified for the 2016-2017 models. Even the dealer cannot get this from GM.
I do not wish to tear apart a brand new car to achieve this. Some basic info from GM would be helpful but I guess for the twenty something thousand I just paid that's to much to ask. The only other choice is to buy the metra kit, replace the factory radio and amplifier and hook up to the speakers at each location. It will cost about me another 600-800 depending on which head unit I select. I already have a 4 ch and sub amp and subwoofer. This is my 13th new and last GM product.

F*** GM
 

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Do you really expect GM to help you troubleshoot problems with aftermarket changes that you are making to your vehicle ? There are millions of changes that you can make, and you cannot expect GM to spend time helping you with these changes.

I going to have to side with Mary T. Barra on this one. :thumb:

I'm afraid that you are on your own, or any help that you can get from your aftermarket parts manufacturer, or any members of forums.

Sorry !
What?? Troubleshoot problems?? He is not asking for that in any way. How does this thing you designed on your $30,000 product that I paid for work? That's what he's asking. My god that's ridiculous. Things like the stereo functionality details, if not included in the manual, should darn well be given at request. To not give that info is really really sad.
 

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A brand called audiocontrol makes several products, like the LC2i, which you use to tap into the high level after the amp, and it has an accubass feature which removes the factory bass roll off, and restores the bass.
 

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Do you really expect GM to help you troubleshoot problems with aftermarket changes that you are making to your vehicle ? There are millions of changes that you can make, and you cannot expect GM to spend time helping you with these changes.

I going to have to side with Mary T. Barra on this one.


I'm afraid that you are on your own, or any help that you can get from your aftermarket parts manufacturer, or any members of forums.

Sorry !
What?? Troubleshoot problems?? He is not asking for that in any way. How does this thing you designed on your $30,000 product that I paid for work? That's what he's asking. My god that's ridiculous. Things like the stereo functionality details, if not included in the manual, should darn well be given at request. To not give that info is really really sad.
You do realize that you're responding to a post from 3 years ago?
 

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I got an 2017 premier with the pioneer system swapped out all the speakers and tweeters with infinity speakers i love the sound and the brand. Always crystal clear. Tapped into the rear speaker wires leading to the sub. I just popped the little cupholder in the rear and the wires were right there no panel removal needed. Colors were blue and white twisted with a green wire and blue and black twisted with a green wire both blue + both green -. Running to an ic2 that was suppose to run just off the speaker wires fail. I asked when I was installing it if I had to run a remote wire and he said no turns out I do no I'm not sure where I can connect the remote wire now and I'm told the 43 pin on black 44 pin in back of the radio anyone done this? If so how ?
 
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