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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New owner of a 2011 SRX, and loving the car. I ordered a set of OEM mud flaps, and upon receiving them it is apparent I'll have to remove the rear wheels to install them.

The owner's manual is awful with regard to jack points. I have a basic floor jack (nothing fancy). Can anyone tell me where safe jack points are, and also where I should put my jack stands?

Thanks, everyone!
 

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You'll often find a 'notch' in the sheet metal; the lowest point of the painted panels between the wheels.

I don't use those. I usually put the jack under the coil spring in front, or under the axle itself in back.
Chocks and jack stands are a good idea.

As long as the tire doesn't rub on the jack at all.

My 3¢
 

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DONT put a jack under the area right behind the front wheel. It looks like you should b able to use it as a jack point but it is not solid enough and will cave in. Dealership did it to a friends terrain
 

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Not to bring a thread back from the dead, but did anyone find good lifting points? I'm use to using a frame and axle to lift and stand a vehicle. However, both of those seem to be missing from my wife's Equinox. ;D I've got some wheels that are in need of rotating.
 

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If you look close at the bottom plastic panels between the wheels you will see tiny arrows indicating the recommended lift points. Pretty ingenious if you ask me.
 

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This is what is in the 2012 Equinox OM:

Position the jack lift head at the
jack location nearest the flat tire.
The location is indicated by a
mark on the bottom edge of the
front and rear door plastic
molding. The jack must not be
used in any other position.
 

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I know about the arrow deal with the factory jack. I'm wondering if anyone knows any good spots for putting a floor jack underneath there and anywhere to put some jack stands under the unibody.
 

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I used the sub-frame under the Engine - between the bumper and the engine for the jack, and then I put the jack-stands on the subframe between the engine and the tires - that's what I remember.
 

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Sweet, thanks. I tried that one area behind the front wheels as mentioned up above, but it couldn't support the weight. I will give this a try. I'm sure I can figure something out on the rear.
 

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Just rotated my tires for the second time. I use a large floor jack to lift the front of the car. There is a steel crossmember bewteen the engine and the radiator. I place jack stands under the steel supports in the front, don't know how to describe but once the front of the car is lifted you can see them. I then use two floor jacks under the rear lifting at some steel supports for the rear wheels. Never use a floor jack along the sides of the car or you will damage the car as stated in a post above. Don't forget to re-program the tire pressure sensors, a 5 minute job. The lug nut torque is 140 foot pounds which seems excessive but that's what the manual calls for. You need a compressor to re-inflate the tires after the learning process. Another tip; the plastic covers for the lug nuts only go back on in one position. I would not rotate the tires if I didn't have an air impact wrench to remove and install the nuts, just too much work by hand for me.
 

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CarrollB said:
. Another tip; the plastic covers for the lug nuts only go back on in one position.
Just curious - My lug nuts don't have plastic covers - I have the OEM 17s - what do you have ?
 

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Thanks for the replies. I have the relearn tool for the TPMS, so that's covered.
 
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