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Discussion Starter #1
Two days ago i was backing up with my Terrain and the motor started to struggle (low rpm shake) and i put it on neutral and the Check Engine light started to flash for about 5 seconds. After that all went back to normal... Never done that again since that... It last about 5-7 seconds...

Anybody had that "problem" ? Any clue ?
 
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SuperMat64 said:
Two days ago i was backing up with my Terrain and the motor started to struggle (low rpm shake) and i put it on neutral and the Check Engine light started to flash for about 5 seconds. After that all went back to normal... Never done that again since that... It last about 5-7 seconds...

Anybody had that "problem" ? Any clue ?
Miss fire

And might want to take it in...
 

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man, you are just having no luck with your terrain are you!

water in gas maybe? a station where i live had water in their gas and i guess tons of vehicles were having miss firing issues at dealers..it was on the news.

luckily i didn't fill up there...
 

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SuperMat64 said:
Two days ago i was backing up with my Terrain and the motor started to struggle (low rpm shake) and i put it on neutral and the Check Engine light started to flash for about 5 seconds. After that all went back to normal... Never done that again since that... It last about 5-7 seconds...

Anybody had that "problem" ? Any clue ?
No offense, but this looks exactly like a basic behavior when put in it too much load in low rpm. It could happen when backing up if the road is not level. I bet you can reproduce it anytime, just put something behind your wheel.
This could be combined with a low oil level and a hot engine.

I'd not worry if is not happening in a normal ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank for you answers, i'll give it a try in the next couple of days to see if that's happening again.
 

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Sounds like an overloaded engine for sure. Were you at full steering lock?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No... i was only backing up to park on the roadside...

bballr4567 said:
Sounds like an overloaded engine for sure. Were you at full steering lock?
 
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If hte MIL was flashing it has nothing to do with the mentioned issues about "load" on the engine. The reason the engine was stumbling is it had SERIOUS mis-fire issues. When the MIL flashes the engine is taking corrective actions to protect from engine dmg/converter dmg. It can be caused by engine knock, engine mis-fire, engine pre-detonation. I would get it scanned, and check w/e plug that was having the issues. On the LNF this was a sign of cracked pistons, I doubt that on our setups, as we are not running boost
 

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The first thing I'd do is run a new tank of fuel (or two) from a high profile Shell, BP or Mobil station that has a high volume business. Just one tank of poor quality fuel (i.e. low octane, water, poor additives) like one may get at the "big box" stores (not naming names here) can make a DI fuel injected engine run not-so-great under some conditions. My wife bought some "big box" fuel in her new Audi (a DI 2.0L Turbo) on two different occasions this past year and had similar issues. Hint: don't buy eggs there. The Audi dealer found "nothing wrong" and was essentially useless/clueless but I guessed it was fuel or a bad plug coil. We tried fuel first; yes it was the fuel that was bad. The problems went away after one new fresh tank of gas from our regular station (Shell) both times that she ignored my advice not to buy cheap gas station fuel; we ran the tank to where it had maybe 2gal left both times and all was well. She has not had a problem since avoiding the "big box" fuel. Give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the hint, bad fuel is a real possibility...



GuntherCam said:
The first thing I'd do is run a new tank of fuel (or two) from a high profile Shell, BP or Mobil station that has a high volume business. Just one tank of poor quality fuel (i.e. low octane, water, poor additives) like one may get at the "big box" stores (not naming names here) can make a DI fuel injected engine run not-so-great under some conditions. My wife bought some "big box" fuel in her new Audi (a DI 2.0L Turbo) on two different occasions this past year and had similar issues. Hint: don't buy eggs there. The Audi dealer found "nothing wrong" and was essentially useless/clueless but I guessed it was fuel or a bad plug coil. We tried fuel first; yes it was the fuel that was bad. The problems went away after one new fresh tank of gas from our regular station (Shell) both times that she ignored my advice not to buy cheap gas station fuel; we ran the tank to where it had maybe 2gal left both times and all was well. She has not had a problem since avoiding the "big box" fuel. Give it a try.
 

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You can also get bad fuel at a brand station. The station has to maintain things and change filters on the pumps when they clog. I once got Exxon gas that actually stopped the engines on 9 cars including a car from the dealer next door. When they drained the tank all I saw was rust. Their are few refineries that make gas and for all brands and off brands. All fuel must meet minimum detergent standards set by the goverment. The name brands can even add just a cup full of additives to a tanker and say their gas is unique.

The Costco gas near me had a BP truck deliver. They did have a problem with cars that used premium gas they believe was due to putting E85 in a premium. If you think it was the gas buy some fuel system cleaner and run it through
 
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