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I'm shopping around with dealers in Wisconsin, trying to find the best deal I can on an Equinox FWD 4 cyl LT1 with the PDD Driver Convenience Package (a very common configuration, there are 11 on lots within 75 miles of me right now, at most only differing by ~$200 max in MSRP because of color surcharge or smallish $100 additional options). Right now the best one I have going is $24,700 (before state taxes & registration), but I'm thinking I can get that down by $200 because it has a bogus $199 "dealer service fee." I do not qualify for supplier or employee pricing. I do have GM points, but I want to leave them out of this discussion to reduce confusion. My understanding is that I cannot use both GM points and something like the credit union member discount, so I think GM Card earnings are the only incentive I can get.

Also, can someone/anyone comment if I have some bad info here in the numbers I'm using:

LT1 base invoice $22,715
+PDD option invoice $744
+Destination charge $745
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Subtotal $24,204
- holdback $765
+ LMA+IMR contributions $495
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2nd subtotal $23,934

Depending on the dealer, I am working with one or the other subtotal. Since this is a fairly popular model, I am thinking the $300 to $750 over cost (depending on how you count & if I can get out of that dealer service fee) is not a bad number. What does anyone else think? Is this a "meh" (not thta great) price, or conversely, is $24,700 such a good price that I would be overly aggressive trying to get them to take out the $200 service fee?

Thanks for any and all feedback!
 

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depends on location, I'm in DC suburbs in Northern Virgina and there are plenty of 2011s unlike the 2010, I got my LTZ for $1801 UNDER MSRP, not over.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
georgi55 said:
depends on location, I'm in DC suburbs in Northern Virgina and there are plenty of 2011s unlike the 2010, I got my LTZ for $1801 UNDER MSRP, not over.
Thanks. As I stated, I am in Wisconsin. FYI $24,500 is $1,000 under the MSRP of $25,500. Not over. The numbers and math I quoted in my post expressed invoice/dealer cost, not MSRP.

Did you qualifying for any special pricing? (supplier, employee, credit union?) Did you have a trade?
 

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MadMark said:
Thanks. As I stated, I am in Wisconsin. FYI $24,500 is $1,000 under the MSRP of $25,500. Not over.

Did you qualifying for any special pricing? (supplier, employee, credit union?) Did you have a trade?
Oh, I see, $1000 under invoice, in area where there might not be as many dealers, and lower LT model is pretty good I think.
From my Zip code there are 25 dealers within 25 miles radius...amaizing!

I did not have any special pricing or trade, just used Consumer Reports' Build and Buy report. The pricing was for another dealer in area, but in the end they beat the price.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-prices/build-and-buy-faq/overview/index.htm

Also check out my and others' posts in Price paid for Equinox thread.
http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=959.msg19215#msg19215

Purchase Date - 10/2010
Car Dealership incl city/state - Sterling Chevy, Sterling, VA
Model Year - 2011
Trim Level LTZ w/ Sunroof & 18 in wheels
MSRP - $30,110
Invoice - Around $29,100
Incentives received - Consumer Reports Build and Buy report - was for another dealer but they beat it.
Price Paid after incentives - $28,309
Out the Door after sales tax, fees, etc - $29,660
 

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I stopped in at my local Chevt ealer to check out the 2011 NOX. They had about 7 2011 LT1's on the lot all with sticker price of $28K and no deals to be had. Of course the salesman asked what could he do to get me into the NOX today and I told him drop the price by $10K. He said we could get that with my trade in..Yeah an 06 HHR LT1 with 75K miles is worth $10K. Are all auto salesmen such BS artists?
 

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It sounds like an average deal....i.e. Heard better and worst....but only by a few hundred dollars either way. The Nox is very popular so the dealers are reluctant to just let them go. However, I don't think you are out of line to request the $200 fee to be taken off. If the dealer wont go through with the deal because of $200....you can find a different dealer willing. In most situations I have found that dealers wont budge on things like that until you "start to walk away from the deal" yourself.
 

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I have found that the "Dealer prep" is kind if a last minute cost they throw at you after you thought you had a price negotiated. Cost OUT THE DOOR is the price you need to get and it looks like you're on top of that--Good job!
 

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coreyp said:
It sounds like an average deal....i.e. Heard better and worst....but only by a few hundred dollars either way. The Nox is very popular so the dealers are reluctant to just let them go. However, I don't think you are out of line to request the $200 fee to be taken off. If the dealer wont go through with the deal because of $200....you can find a different dealer willing. In most situations I have found that dealers wont budge on things like that until you "start to walk away from the deal" yourself.
When I was buying mine, I had the same thing happen. I ended up walking over a $400 doc fee that I requested be reduced by less than half. I really didn't like the attitude of the "Manager" so I walked over $167. I emailed a dealer 15 min away and they said sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies all. In the end I bought from another dealer, I got another LT1 with PDD driver convenience, but this time a black granite paint (my wife's preference, not mine) for $24,698 + $107 "dealer service fee" = $24,805. Minus a $50 dealer gift card. In other words, $50-$100 more (depending how you value gift card) than the first one I was looking at, but also with the black granite metallic extra option. So once you figure in that, a slightly better deal. More importantly for me, the dealer was 8 miles vs. 75 miles away, that tends to wash out the difference in terms of time & hassle. Also we got a vehicle with only 5 on the odometer, no other customer had driven it, vs. one that was on the lot a while.

Subtracting my $4,255 GM Card reward accumulation, my personal final price was $20,550 before taxes registration etc. Of course they tried to sell me thousands of dollars of dealer add-ons, but I refused them all. I'm happy, the LT1 has quite a lot of standard features for a base+1 trim level!
 

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MadMark said:
Thanks for the replies all. In the end I bought from another dealer, I got another LT1 with PDD driver convenience, but this time a black granite paint (my wife's preference, not mine) for $24,698 + $107 "dealer service fee" = $24,805. Minus a $50 dealer gift card. In other words, $50-$100 more (depending how you value gift card) than the first one I was looking at, but also with the black granite metallic extra option. So once you figure in that, a slightly better deal. More importantly for me, the dealer was 8 miles vs. 75 miles away, that tends to wash out the difference in terms of time & hassle. Also we got a vehicle with only 5 on the odometer, no other customer had driven it, vs. one that was on the lot a while.

Subtracting my $4,255 GM Card reward accumulation, my personal final price was $20,550 before taxes registration etc. Of course they tried to sell me thousands of dollars of dealer add-ons, but I refused them all. I'm happy, the LT1 has quite a lot of standard features for a base+1 trim level!
Congrats and enjoy!
 

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rutger1413 said:
I thought you were only able to apply $1000 of your GM card rewards towards the Nox/Terrain?
Depends on which card and I think when you got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Terra-Nox said:
Depends on which card and I think when you got it.
Correct. I have one of the old cards, which I opened in 1992 around when the probgram started, I think it used to be called "Blue" or something, and am grandfathered in at the old terms when it was discontinued (around 1998?). Although they keep trying to get me to convert to the new card (I always politely decline).

The old card terms are basically the exact opposite of the "new" (actually 12 year old) card. The new card, you can get unlimited 5% earnings, but you are limited in how many you can redeem (as I understand it). With the old card your 5% earnings are capped at $500/yr, with expiration after 7 years, but there is no redemption limit.

In theory (and in all GM's printed literature) you should have a 7 year * $500/yr = $3,500 redemption cap per auto even with the old Blue card. But I exploited some quirks in the system, and planned my purchase 8 years in advance, to get $750 past that. I did not use the card for almost the full earnings year 8 years ago, then charge $10k in the final month of my earnings year to get the $500/yr all at once. It was easy to do back then because the US Treasury still allowed you to buy Savings bond with CCs back then. On this end of the seven years -- due to some quirks in anniversary vs. cycle date differences -- I had 13 days to accumulate up to another $500 at the start of my new earnings year, but still within the window that I would get credited the new earnings before that $500 expired from that one month 7 years ago. But I didn't have an easy way to max out the $500 like I did back then with savings bond purchases, so I only got about another $300. In talking to a CSR at GM Card Earnings a couple months ago as I was planning the endgame on this, I understand there are a few that have even done better than me, someone even got over $4,500 somehow.

In order to max out my earnings as much as possible in that 13 days window, I went completely nuts with my credit card, not only buying lots of stuff, but essentially paying for stuff in advance -- I paid my insurance premiums early, overpaid phone/internet bills so I would have credits, bought enough gift cards from my local grocery to pay for the next few months food, buying an amazon gift card to load up my balance with them for future purchases, etc, etc, etc. My card actually was frozen by GM Card fraud protection twice in 13 days :eek:

In hindsight I missed one golden opportunity: I had been in contact with dealers negotiating my price before my final earnings cycle closed, but I waited to go sign the contract until a couple days after. Because the car I bought was on a train & not on the lot, I didn't close the deal until 10 days later. If I had known it would work that way, and thought of it, I would have gone in a couple days earlier to sign the contract, before my final qualifying earnings cycle ended, and used the GM card to make a $2k downpayment (you are allowed to charge up to $2k of purchase price to a credit card). Then when I came back to close the deal I would have cashed in the GM Card earnings then, and thus had $2k * 5% = $100 more earnings to apply from a $2k downpayment made at the contract signing :)

I actually just paid off last month's nasty $6xxx credit card balance yesterday, after paying for the car itself last week. So lets just say it's been a very hard week on my bank balance :'(
 

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It sounds like you are using the GM CC to your advantage. I use the one that lets you collect $500/year and usually get a "new" car every 6-7 years maxing out the $3500. Since I have had my current acr since 06, I'm starting to look at the Equinox, but I'm also waiting to see what the economy will be like in the coming year. It doesn't look like I'll be getting anything soon a the dealers around here don't want to deal and any new Chevy (except Corvettes) will depreciate 20% as soon as you drive it off the lot.
 

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MadMark said:
...wrote a great tale about his card...
This story had me rolling!Hysterical, and a very creative use of the terms to best advantage!!! :D

Kind of interesting, I never considered any GM car until the past year or so, so having the credit card would have been a waste of time for me. Now I'm kind of jealous.
 

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mnussbaum said:
This story had me rolling!Hysterical, and a very creative use of the terms to best advantage!!! :D

Kind of interesting, I never considered any GM car until the past year or so, so having the credit card would have been a waste of time for me. Now I'm kind of jealous.
Glad you liked it. Yeah, it was a leap of faith for me back in 92 when I got it. I wasn't' sure I would ever use it, but back then there really weren't any great rewards card alternatives except for airline ones with big annual fees, and I was unlikely to use. The card I had been using (the only CC I had ... oh those were simpler times!) didn't give me any rewards so it was all the same really, the points were just a bonus. At that time I had a VERY hard time imagining myself buying another GM actually. I had an '84 Skyhawk, and it was a complete disaster, I used to call it my "piece of Brazilian [email protected]" (I'd read that assembly was done in brazil).

Really though my best deal I got with it was the first go around in 2000 when I bought a Chevy Prism, which is really a Toyota Corolla with slightly different sheet metal (both were built by NUMI in CA). The Prism had been a Geo model, and Geos were exempt from the GM Card program, but through a stroke of luck they folded Geo that year and rebranded the Prism as a Chevy for the last couple years of its lifespan (NUMI made Vibes after that). So I got to apply around $3200 in earnings to that (wasn't quite as sophisticated back then with gaming the system). Combined with some end of model year rebates & new grad allowance for my wife, etc., I got a fairly nice Prism with all the important options (ABS, airbags, and 4 speed automatic were not standard) for something like $8,500. I still have that car, it's got 120k miles on it and I've never had to replace anything but the brakes and batteries (knock on wood). Great second car for the family, I hope it lasts another ten years.

FWIW, I'm not sure I'm gonna use the GM Card anymore though. I could have gotten $1k for just being a credit union member, so that really cut into the real return on it, and there are lots of other good rewards cards to use these days (I have one for 5% on gas, another for 3% on travel restaurant, another for 2% on grocery ... all cash, not points). And who knows what GM will look like in 9 years -- that's how long it take to max out the card like I did (since I've charged $3300 of the $500 already this year, I might as well not accumulate more this year, and then to max out an amount over $3500, I would not want to start charging again til fall 2012, and buy again in November 2019).
 
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