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Ventured out into the wind whipped cold today. These rails were burning a whole in my garage. LOL!! The whole procedure took 5 minutes. Maybe 7 b/c of pics.

Step #1 - Remove cover to the rail system.
The easiest way is to lift the piece out in the middle to gain access to the top of the clips. Then just used your fingers to pry clips (in red circles) back and pull it out.


You will now find access to the rail system.


Step #2 - Readying the rails

Unpacked and Labeled LH & RH so you know what side goes where




Each rail has a door that lifts up. Lift it up to move and down to lock into place. You can see the difference in the shape of the clips in the second pic.




Step # 3 - Inserting into the rail system

Place on end into the open section and it should allow you to place the other end in as well. Line up the knobs on the end with the rail and slide in.



There are 4 points you can stop and click the rails in. They are circled in red with the green dots.



Step # 4 - Replace End Cover

Pops right back in.



Step # 5 - Sit back and enjoy



Once I receive my new EasySnap mounting clips and Thule Fairing, I wil test mount the box and document that as well. Hope to catch a warm day to do it.
 

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SnowItch said:
Cool! Pictures and everything. Thanks!

Interesting, I just read somewhere that the rails should be placed as far forward and as far back as possible in order to reduce wind resistance.
My hands were frozen. The things I do for this forum. LOL!!

That is true but I also ordered a fairing to hope and divert the wind up and over the box. Waiting on delivery.
 

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SnowItch said:
Cool! Pictures and everything. Thanks!

Interesting, I just read somewhere that the rails should be placed as far forward and as far back as possible in order to reduce wind resistance.
The fore/aft rail location apparently helps for wind noise as well.


NY_Joe said:
My hands were frozen. The things I do for this forum. LOL!!

That is true but I also ordered a fairing to hope and divert the wind up and over the box. Waiting on delivery.
Thanks NY_Joe, excellent documentation!
 

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I found the "4 locking positions" by accident. Our LTZ already had rails, and I noticed one day that one of the locking levers was not locked down and loose. After tinkering with it for a bit, I found that the rails seemed to rest better in a very specific spot, and the locking lever would lock down tight rather than float loosly.

So, if you see the lever float upward or feel very loose, it's probably because you're not in the designed position for it to rest.
 

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Joe,
Do you think that you could do me a favor and measure the maximum center to center distance between the cross rails, front to back? I have an older Thule box, and will pick up my new Nox next week. I would like to see if the rails are far enough apart to use my existing hardware before I order the kit. Thank you.
 

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markyb said:
Joe,
Do you think that you could do me a favor and measure the maximum center to center distance between the cross rails, front to back? I have an older Thule box, and will pick up my new Nox next week. I would like to see if the rails are far enough apart to use my existing hardware before I order the kit. Thank you.
I believe that the Equinox and Terrain use the same roof rack so I measured mine and it was 28" from the center of the rear rail to the center of the front rail. The rails are spaced in the holes that are the farthest apart.

Hope this helps.
 

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dietz4ibanez said:
How much were the rails! Very nice review BTW!
I have been looking at buying a set. They are $165 from GM.
 

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Just bought my Terrain last Friday, while waiting for the cross rails from my dealer I came across this write up... picked up the cross rails yesterday ( $150 plus tax ) and installed them the same day.

Why read the directions when you have excellent write up's like this :thumb:, thanks.

Later,
Al
 

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NODES said:
one of my rails pops up and does not stay closed.
There are arrows on the top of the rails that show where they should be placed. There are only bout 4 places where the rails will "lock in".
 

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RIT333 said:
There are arrows on the top of the rails that show where they should be placed. There are only bout 4 places where the rails will "lock in".

They do lock in but the tab that needs to be pushed down to lock, keeps on popping up on one side.
 

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NODES said:
They do lock in but the tab that needs to be pushed down to lock, keeps on popping up on one side.
Agreed, but if you put it at the places where GM would like you to use, then the tab WILL stay down.
 

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RIT333 said:
Agreed, but if you put it at the places where GM would like you to use, then the tab WILL stay down.
Oh they are in the exact location GM wants you to have them in, will take them out and try placing them in another location and see if that issue arises again.
 

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Anyone notice how thin the sheetmetal is on the roof ?? I thought of trying to use the ribbed roof w/o the rails.
I can see how easily the roof could be damaged.

Op, nice job on providing those pics.
 

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EquinoxFF1063 said:
Anyone notice how thin the sheetmetal is on the roof ?? I thought of trying to use the ribbed roof w/o the rails.
I can see how easily the roof could be damaged.

Op, nice job on providing those pics.
Yes - the sheet metal is like paper.

VERY nice pictures and description. You're hired !
 
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