I purchased fog lights and wiring harness from Ipex motoring Inc online for 72.00 dollars. I purchased the bezels online for GM wholesale for 35 dollars each. I used a youtube video to install the lamps and bezel. It was real simple. The back side of the lamp opening can easily be reached from under the bumper without removing anything. As far as the wiring goes, I installed the relay on the front of the engine compartment using an existing 10 mm screw infront of the battery. I also grounded the black wire from the relay on the same screw. I then dropped the wires going to the lamps straight down and plugged the drivers side lamp in first. Then I worked the rest of the wire across the front and on top of the frame to the passenger side lamp and plugged the passenger side lamp in. I tie wrapped the wire to the top of the frame.
I removed the lower dash panel below and to the left of the steering wheel, which is held in position by two 7 mm screws. The panel will pop off easily by tugging on it. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the fire wall into the engine compartment under the dash below the steering wheel by moving the carpet and padding out of the way. I ran a piece of scrap wire through the hole under the dash into the engine compartment. Then I used a coat hanger with a hook bent on the end of it to snag the wire in the engine compartment. This was my pull wire. I cut the three wire plug from the white black and red wire and taped the wires to the pull wire and pulled them into the area beneath the steering wheel. Then I taped the three wires with electrical tape near the hole to create protection for the wires and pushed the tape into the hole. I cut the switch off of the Ipex supplied cord. I didn't want to tie wrap the cheap switch to the turn signal arm, which is what was recommended. I bought a lighted switch and soldered the smaller wires to the terminals on the switch. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the dash panel above the dome/dimmer switch and and then installed the new switch. It was secured on the inside of the dash with a threaded plastic nut. It was easy to reach the back side of the switch. I then butt spliced the small wires to the larger wire that were pulled through the firewall. I then put the dash panel back into place.
I opend the fuse box in the engine compartment and drilled two small holes on the back side of the fuse box. I ran the two red power wires, from the relay and the switch, through the small holes. I squeezed a female spade terminal on the end of both wires and plugged them onto two hot male terminals in the fuse box. You have to use a volt meter or test device to determine the hot terminals. I grounded the switch black wire to a ground post next to the fuse box. It is marked as a negetive ground post. I re-installed the fuse box cover and tested the switch. It worked great.
I hope this helps
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