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Discussion Starter #1
So my post is about reliability but only for you guys and gals that had the 3.0L V6. I know all about the 2.4L so I don't want any info about that motor, we owned one of the older 2.4L's in the HHR and didn't feel like it had the power to move the Nox and I had already read about some of the problems with them before we bought this one, so we stayed away from it.

My wife and I were looking to get a newer vehicle but now we decided to sell our camper and get a newer one, so the newer bigger Suburban is going to have to wait. We are hoping our Nox can make it to around 200,000 miles, and I looking for some insight from those of you that have already put that many miles on your Nox. Right now we have 105,xxx miles, we drive it to work everyday now, put about 22k to 25k miles on it a year just for work, and so far (knock on wood) the car has been fine. We had a couple of issues with the drivers seat, the trans shifts funny sometimes (while setting the cruise it jumps down to 3rd gear even if you are up to speed and are steady on the throttle, has a fluctuation at 35mph where the rpm flutters), the hvac auto controls are awful when the outside temp is close to the set temp, and I think that is about it. We have changed the stock exhaust out for the Magnaflow kit after we ran over 2 deer and their carcass got stuck in the heat shield around the muffler. Awful smell for over 2 weeks each time, plus I wanted it to sound better, the smell excuse was just to get the wife onboard. I have new shocks and struts that I just did and I'm ready to do the front brakes, the front end is shaking under hard stops. The rear shocks are some monotube designs from KYB, and the fronts are the FE2 suspension from the 2013 Nox with the 3.6L and the 19" wheels. The spring is identical for both years so I just got a better valved strut and the FE2 was cheaper than the FE1 in 2012. I am mostly worried about the timing chain and we have developed a whine/drone, I think it is either the front hubs or the carrier bearing.

The maintenance I have done to it:
Oil changes with PF63 and Mobil 1 Full Syn before the OLM hits 10%
Air filters every 25,000
Magnaflow exhaust at 45,000
Drained and filled trans 2 times at 90,000 with AC Dex VI
New Rear shocks - KYB gas a just at 92,000
Replaced spark plugs at 95,000 with AC OE
Changed transfer case and rear end fluid at 97,500 with AC Fluids - Grape stuff for Rear end, Transfer case fluid for TC
New AC FE2 struts from 2013 Nox at 98,500

We want to hear your stories or problems with your 3.0L so we can be watching for it. Or if you have a praise we want to hear them too. I am just hoping that we have good luck to continue with it.
 

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Sounds like youre on the right track in regards to maintenance.

at 10%---- how many miles are on the oil?

You say you changed the exhaust... but no mention of the Oxygen sensors. If theyre still factory---
I would go ahead and change all of them (4).
Even if you have no CEL.

They get lazy as they age.... and no need to complicate matters... keep it working well.
I changed all 4 of mine on my Traverse at 100,000.
Vehicle still running fine.
 

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Sounds like you have some of the obvious maint. done.
One thing I can add is keep an eye on your transmission.
GM updated the trans. in the early 2013's (late 2012) depending on build date.
My 2014 has been solid as a rock.
 

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Almost at 115,000 miles with my 2011 3.0L (bought brand new). Just replaced the EVAP Purge Valve in the engine compartment (~$35), but other than that, just brake pads and a battery (plus, about 25 oil changes, and a couple tranny fluid drains now).

And while that might sound great, it's also standard fare for every vehicle I've ever owned at this mileage number. So it's what I expect, and I'm not particularly impressed (yet). I drive all my vehicles over 200,000, and typically start to see the more major issues reveal themselves in the 175,000 mile range. So we'll see how it's doing at *that* point, and how it ends up comparing to its predecessors.

The predecessors, BTW, have 208,000 ('02 Impala), 225,000 ('97 Taurus), and 255,000 ('89 Colt) miles currently on them. The Impala and Taurus still have their original timing chain. I replaced the Colt timing BELT *once* at around 130,000 miles.

Will the timing chain in my Equinox last until at least 208,000 miles??? Stay tuned ...
 

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Almost at 115,000 miles with my 2011 3.0L (bought brand new). Just replaced the EVAP Purge Valve in the engine compartment (~$35),
I've been driving cars for many decades, and over 500K miles, and never have I had to replace a EVAP Purge Valve in my engine compartment. Sounds to me like you must have gotten a lemon ! LOL

If I were you, I would dis GM at every opportunity, and never buy another GM product in your life. LOL, again

Seriously, for once, congrats on the fantastic track record on your car ownership. Especially the 255K our of a Mitsi product ! At GE, we used to love going up against Mitsi in Power Generation products bids. We could easily show GE's reliability superiority.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's the second time I read this, i have curiosity for this issue, how you can fix that?
The power seat would sometime not move. We had the easy exit driver seat feature turned on. It would move the seat back once the key was removed from the ignition. It was nice for me since my wife is much smaller than I am and would forget to move the seat back. That feature fixed our forgetfulness of not moving the seat for the next driver. However it stopped working and we took it in under warranty and it was reprogrammed. It worked for another couple of months and then the motor died. We got a new motor and turned the easy exit feature off. It also started to shoot some of the bearings out of the track. But now it is still working just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sounds like youre on the right track in regards to maintenance.

at 10%---- how many miles are on the oil?

You say you changed the exhaust... but no mention of the Oxygen sensors. If theyre still factory---
I would go ahead and change all of them (4).
Even if you have no CEL.

They get lazy as they age.... and no need to complicate matters... keep it working well.
I changed all 4 of mine on my Traverse at 100,000.
Vehicle still running fine.
I'm not actually sure the mileage. It's just a habit I have gotten into. I don't like to see things go down to zero especially with the oil system. If I had to guess I would say we are somewhere around the 6-7k mark for mileage at 10%, probably closer to 5-6k. I didn't change the o2 sensors because I changed the exhaust when the car was probably 2 or maybe 3 years old. I thought for dang sure they can make it that long. I'll check into them when I get the brakes ordered.

Sounds like you have some of the obvious maint. done.
One thing I can add is keep an eye on your transmission.
GM updated the trans. in the early 2013's (late 2012) depending on build date.
My 2014 has been solid as a rock.
After changing the fluid the first time I won't let it go very long without draining and filling it more often. That was the nastiest fluid I have changed apart from the rear end of this thing. I guess I am used to my Allison (my second and probably my 4th one to work on) that doesn't even turn the fluid very dark when you drain and fill it. Our car is probably the first gen 6T70 because it is a 2012 model year but was purchased on black friday of 2011. I didn't mean to buy it on black friday we just happened to be in our home state for Thanksgiving and needed a new car. I have had concerns with the transmission from the day we got it but it has never gotten any worse or better so I took that as it was just made that way. I can tell you it drives different than any other car we have ever owned. It took us some time to learn how to drive this one the way it wanted to be driven.

Almost at 115,000 miles with my 2011 3.0L (bought brand new). Just replaced the EVAP Purge Valve in the engine compartment (~$35), but other than that, just brake pads and a battery (plus, about 25 oil changes, and a couple tranny fluid drains now).

And while that might sound great, it's also standard fare for every vehicle I've ever owned at this mileage number. So it's what I expect, and I'm not particularly impressed (yet). I drive all my vehicles over 200,000, and typically start to see the more major issues reveal themselves in the 175,000 mile range. So we'll see how it's doing at *that* point, and how it ends up comparing to its predecessors.

The predecessors, BTW, have 208,000 ('02 Impala), 225,000 ('97 Taurus), and 255,000 ('89 Colt) miles currently on them. The Impala and Taurus still have their original timing chain. I replaced the Colt timing BELT *once* at around 130,000 miles.

Will the timing chain in my Equinox last until at least 208,000 miles??? Stay tuned ...
I will keep changing the fluid probably every 35k miles now. That was bad when I first changed it, plus the car drove better after it was changed. I just changed the battery about 3 weeks ago, it almost left us stranded, thankfully at the gas station, but finally turned it over enough to get us home. I changed the timing chain in my sisters 2.2L HHR this last year, it broken a couple of the guides and let the chain go loose, which allowed it to jump time. Thankfully it just died on her and I was able to load it up and bring it home. Took me about 3 nights in the garage after work to get it going again. It ate into the bolts sent shavings though the oil. It runs great now, it also has a magnaflow exhaust and magnaflow cats with new o2 sensors. The old exhaust had rusted holes all through it.
 

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I've been driving cars for many decades, and over 500K miles, and never have I had to replace a EVAP Purge Valve in my engine compartment. Sounds to me like you must have gotten a lemon ! LOL

If I were you, I would dis GM at every opportunity, and never buy another GM product in your life. LOL, again

Seriously, for once, congrats on the fantastic track record on your car ownership. Especially the 255K our of a Mitsi product ! At GE, we used to love going up against Mitsi in Power Generation products bids. We could easily show GE's reliability superiority.
Thanks! Yeah, stuff like sensors failing in the engine compartment doesn't bother me. That happens, and it seems like there's always *one* that fails. The Taurus had a speed sensor (VSS) fail in it's 3rd year. Impala had a MAF sensor go (just last year). The Mitsubishi, on the other hand, held onto to all of its original sensors all the way to 255k!

The only thing that would infuriate me is (premature) major mechanical failures (engine/transmission) - like some people have seen with those 2.4L engines. Historically, if those things didn't happen within the warranty period, you've usually been good to go for the practical life of the vehicle (at least 150,000 miles). Now, with plastic parts buried in your engine, you're probably at risk for catastrophic failure at *any* mileage...

Hmmm ... maybe I'll finally start checking my oil more frequently on my Nox ...
 

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Any updates on this thread?

My wife’s 2011 SRX has 106k on it and seems to run just great, though it’s starting to burn some oil- 1 qt every 2000-2500 miles.

Oil changes 5-6k with synthetic
Trans fluid changed several times to keep it fresh
Plugs and serpentine belt around 85k
Coolant flush

Anyone hitting 150-200k miles ? Cars.com shows a good number of HFV6 Equinox and SRX pushing 200k miles, which is a good sign.
 

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my 2 cents, this is what I am doing, ...
To keep my GDI ENGINE going as long as possible, and to delay the onset of oil consumption which all GDI Engines will eventually experience...

I would add a catch can on dirty side PCV
it would delay the onset of oil consumption by catching the crankcase fumes that are being sucked into the combustion chamber.... and get deposited on the intake valves in the process.
And
For similar reasons add a vented cap, it will reduce crankcase gasses from being pushed into cleanside breather hose and air intake assembly.. (in the V6 only when throttle body is partially open, on 4 cylinders equinox, even at idle when throttle body is closed)
And it would keep crankcase pressure much lower then it would otherwise be...

I would use Techron fuel system cleaner before each oil change, with the goal being to remove carbon build up in the crevice between piston and cylinder wall, on top of upper compression ring....

I would use only premium gasoline from a top tier supplier, to reduce the chance of LSPI, from the carbon lodged between piston and cylinder wall on upper compression ring
and it will help clean carbon from combustion chamber

Walnut blast the intake valves, to remove carbon from intake valves, then it can not fall off into the combustion chamber, which is a root cause of oil consumption ...
I got mine done on 3.6 liter traverse in Chicago area for less then $400.

(Do not use a running engine intake valve treatment like BG or CRC, it could damage your catalytic converter, and will scratch the walls of your combustion chamber..)

All that ^^^ because they are GDI engines, and the car companies dropped the ball on the design of those engines, like.... they should have put catch cans in and lowered cylinder compression ... better PCV system and...

My thought for the drivetrain, to maximize its life, in addition to what you have done with partial trans fluid changes,...
I bought a digital tire pressure gauge that measures and displays pressure to about 0.1 psi,
and keep all 4 tires at the same cold tire pressure...... 35 to 35.5 psi..... it is amazing, tires in the sun have 1 to 2 higher tire pressure then tires in the shade.

Finally
And I would appreciate polite feedback on this idea, ...
If it would make a difference to transmission life,
or/and
an explanation on exactly how traction control works..

==>>> I try turning off traction control before driving when roads are dry... so that anti lock breaks are not fighting the transmission when wheel speeds don't match....? Thus hoping transmission will last 200k + miles.
 

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I would not worry about traction control affecting the trans. . TC only kicks in with wheel slippage, TC will reduce engine power with high wheel spin like in snow/ice so turning it off isn't helping the trans as it will shift accordingly to speed and engine load. Sudden fast rise in wheel speed triggers the TC. Playing with it in snow is the best teacher to see how it works. GM systems usually turn back on over 30 mph when turned off. Anti lock brakes are there not only for wet but dry also like a panic stop to help maintain control when bambi jumps out on a curve or somebody pulls out in front of you so leave it on. If your making the ABS kick in regularly you need a sports car or quit late braking, coast more.
Service all the fluids by the severe duty schedule, especially the trans and transfer case with synth. lubes. I've gotten 200k miles out of the trans. in my '00 Sable with a known weak trans., '99 Yukon and latest was a '09 Malibu and sold all 3 to people I know and they were still on the road with only rust killing the Yuk and Sable not the trans., 'bu still going as a friend bought it. All were bought used and immediately put on the severe service sched. . New purchase's go on the schedule right away. If one reads the severe sched. in the manual we all hit at least one of the listed parameters.
Synth. fluids and quality fuels and frequent maintenance are all you can do as crap happens but that will minimize issues.
 

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Hadn't posted on this thread in 2 years, and since I actually own a V6 Equinox with the 3.0L engine, I might as well stay current, right?

About to turn 143,000 miles. Had a wheel speed sensor on the rear driver's wheel throwing a code and setting off the Stabilitrak and Traction Control alarms/cluster icons, but curiously enough ... with the warmer weather, it seems to have stopped happening! Haven't seen it in weeks (maybe months). Really weird!

Lately, though, I seem to be feeling an ever-so-slight feeling of "slippage" (or, what's the term that's used ... "flaring" at the top of a gear ???) with the transmission. Probably been over a year since I changed any of the transmission fluid, so I might do that prior to my next "long haul".

Paint is also coming off the nose of the hood, but I'll take the blame for that one: I've been slapping on a bra prior to my long drives up and down the East Coast - like I've done with the two previous vehicles that made these drives, but with the Equinox - because of the irregular shape of its hood (and maybe a weak paint job) - I've now got two fairly large symmetrical sections at either end where the top coat paint has cleanly detached from the gray primer below. And it's starting to show tiny specs of rust now, so I bought some materials to fix that, but just waiting for the warmer weather to be more consistent on a daily basis before re-painting.

Nothing else to report. Vehicle is largely still factory. Very little money in maintenance has been spent over 9.25 years now. In fact, I can give a pretty accurate number right off the top of my head: ~35 oil changes ($525) + $700 in tires (4 new Michelin Latitude replacements at ~80,000 miles on OEMs) + $35 Purge Valve + $100 Walmart EverStart battery + $60 Transmission Fluid + $100 front and rear brake pads = we'll call it ~$1550

I'm expecting some kind of leak(s) to start happening sometime in the next 40k miles or so ...
 

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Lately, though, I seem to be feeling an ever-so-slight feeling of "slippage" (or, what's the term that's used ... "flaring" at the top of a gear ???) with the transmission. Probably been over a year since I changed any of the transmission fluid, so I might do that prior to my next "long haul".
Pretty much average maintenance compared to other V-6 owners
Changing the trans fluid is always a good idea.

If your slippage or flaring gets worse you probably will have to change the pressure switches in the transmission.
Rbarrios did his and posted some info on it.
 

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Pretty much average maintenance compared to other V-6 owners
I consider it no maintenance.

As for the transmission pressure switches ... I thought those weren't supposed to be a problem in my transmission because they were a different type or "upgraded" ... but maybe I'm confusing mine with another model year?
 

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U
I consider it no maintenance.

As for the transmission pressure switches ... I thought those weren't supposed to be a problem in my transmission because they were a different type or "upgraded" ... but maybe I'm confusing mine with another model year?
The 6T70 Gen I transmission was upgraded in 2013, the same year that the engine was upgraded from the 3.0L to the 3.6L.

The newer Gen II 6T70 transmission was used from 2013 thru 2017 in the V-6.
 

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I would not worry about traction control affecting the trans. . TC only kicks in with wheel slippage, TC will reduce engine power with high wheel spin like in snow/ice so turning it off isn't helping the trans as it will shift accordingly to speed and engine load. Sudden fast rise in wheel speed triggers the TC. .


Indeed, I do service transmission fluid, transfer case and rear differential fluids as you and others on this forum have suggested.

To be clear,
turning off traction control does not impact anti lock brakes...
ABS is for stopping and ABS can not be turned off.

Traction control is for accelerating and wheel spin,
so when it is dry out, I try to remember to turn it off... thinking IF there is differential tire wear or tire pressure variations, (tire diameter variations)
(Some folks might not rotate tires frequently and have more wear on 1 tire,
or have 1 tire pressure 4 psi lower then other 3 tires)
that turning off traction control, might make a difference on life of the transmission .....

and
since it is dry out, I don't worry about wheel spin on acceleration.
but
you say, you believe it makes no difference, even though I have AWD....
so .......perhaps I should stop trying to remember to turn it off. (I rotate tires and check tire pressure with a gage)

Theoretically.... let me ask-->
--> What if 1 tire is slightly newer then the other 3 tires and has let's say it has 1/16 of an inch more tread... then the other 3 tires..
what does your experience say under that circumstance to turn off traction control?
 

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Just went through that this week, bolt in rear tire on edge of tread in my 'nox, no can fix had to replace it. Other 3 have a lot of tread on them so on went the new tire. I'm not turning off the TC . There is enough ''play'' in the drivetrain to compensate for wear differences on the same size tires. Unmatched tires (size) in the rear would affect the transfer case not the trans. . 1/16 tread wear is nothing, jack a wheel up and rock it, you'll see actually how much ''slop'' is in the drivetrain.
Your over thinking it, TC is for complete loss of traction ( IE wheel spin of many revolutions ) and it takes a lot of loss for it to kick in.
I turn off the TC when I need to get a rolling start up a driveway and have a short span to get speed up to gain momentum to get up that icy driveway. Wheel spin in that short span to get speed up is necessary. I've fought TC in 2wd Express vans for years and it's a handicap for experienced winter drivers. I've never had TC activate in my 4wd/AWD fleet unless I was WFO playing with it.
 
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