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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a how to video I made since I could not find any on the web, plus seemed like a lot of people wanted to know how this was done. I am sure this will also work for the GMC Terrains since they are very similar. Hopefully this helps some of you
and can maybe use it for future references.
More of my how to videos to come, including
Adding chrome door handles, fog lights & chrome roof racks. Maybe some other
helpful videos as well! I am still new at making youtube videos so bare with my nerdy voice and camera movements lol I will be a pro soon. Here is a pic of a few items you will need and I also described them in the video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZXqHjtVn0c&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

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:thumb: Thank you for the effort!! there will be many who will be grateful that you did this, myself included. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you!! I hope this will help others since I understand sometimes its frustrating not knowing how to do something. When we live in a information era and the info should be out there for everyone to access it. If I cant find it, heck i will just create it if I am able to lol!
 

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This is great info, but have you attempted the rear door panels as well??

I am going to be replacing the stock speakers and want to make sure i have all the bases covered.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The rear door panel is the same concept accept the position of the door panel clips. The harness is not as large as the front since there is just the window switch and rear speaker wires. You would first want to remove the 2 bolts, one behind the door handle under the cover similar to the front and the other behind lower grab handle also similar to the front. Here is a pic of the rear door panel diagram hope it helps. One of these days i will do a video for the rear panels.

 

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EXCELLENT!!! I love diagrams so you don't go in blindly and crack anything!!

Thank you so much!!
 

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er.. could you re-explain where the second bolt is on the back panel.. i was working on chrome handles and dropped a tool in the door... =\ so upset ... hah..ugh...

I found the one behind the handle but dont know where another is..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not sure what bolt your talking about. Sorry you drooped something no fun eeek. All bolts that need to be removed are shown in video.
 

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Ah, I see part 13 now.. but not sure how to get it because that whole grab handle seems stuck pretty good.. I'm afraid to break something.

bowtieman said:
The rear door panel is the same concept accept the position of the door panel clips. The harness is not as large as the front since there is just the window switch and rear speaker wires. You would first want to remove the 2 bolts, one behind the door handle under the cover similar to the front and the other behind lower grab handle also similar to the front. Here is a pic of the rear door panel diagram hope it helps. One of these days i will do a video for the rear panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Iliedead said:
Ah, I see part 13 now.. but not sure how to get it because that whole grab handle seems stuck pretty good.. I'm afraid to break something.
Edit:
After looking at mine, there is no little cover for the bolt. The entire grab handle is one piece and the window control all together in one piece. Not sure if once you remove this little panel with window switch if it would expose the bolt. But then again not sure if the bolt is holding anything to the panel door.
Here is a pic. I will have to remove it myself to find out the real deal on this or ask someone here that has swap out there back speakers themselves.




One of these days I will make a video on removing the rear panel.

If you lost a bit, my suggestion is to tape it to the screwdriver just in case it doesn't fall again.
 

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bowtieman said:
Edit:
After looking at mine, there is no little cover for the bolt. The entire grab handle is one piece and the window control all together in one piece. Not sure if once you remove this little panel with window switch if it would expose the bolt. But then again not sure if the bolt is holding anything to the panel door.
Here is a pic. I will have to remove it myself to find out the real deal on this or ask someone here that has swap out there back speakers themselves.

One of these days I will make a video on removing the rear panel.
I am working on a speaker swap for the REAR doors using the stock Pioneer radio on our 2015 Equinox LTZ as I write this. I will take a few pictures and show what needs to be done to remove the REAR door panel. It is a bit different than the front and as shown in a parts diagram a few posts earlier. There are two 12mm hex head screws that need to be removed just under the inside hand pull well. There is a flat spring steel clip at the rear of the hand pull well cover that you need to work at to release it and remove the well with the door lock switch on it.

Pictures probably tomorrow and my results with some replacement Fosgate 6 3/4" speakers.

I will say this. You really have to pry the panel open a bit at the rear back lower corner of the panel to get your fingers under it and give it a hard pull. It is not for the faint of heart and I would not recommend doing it under 65 degrees F. The plastic is pliable in warmer temps. In cold temps I would be concerned with cracking the door panel retainer holders.
 

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Okay, as promised, I will post a few pics on how to remove the rear door panel on a 2015 Equinox LTZ. It should be similar to the 2010 - 2014 Terrain and Equinox as well. I am posting it here to augment the excellent thread BowtieMan has already started. Excellent video by the way BTMan! :cheers:

EDIT: This is not the complete set of pictures. I will post another set showing the inner door cable removal and some other things For now, read the text on how to remove the door lever cable.

Again, you need to use a plastic removal tool or other flat non marring tool, to start to pry the lower rear corner of the door open enough to get you fingers behind the edge of the inner door panel. Then I placed my knee against the bottom edge of the outer door and PULLED firmly but gently. Once the first of the 10(?) plastic inner retainers pops loose, the rest come pretty easy. Some may pop out of their seats inside the panel or even remain in the holes inside the door, which you will have to reinstall in the door panel slots before replacing the inner door panel. NOTE: Do not try and use the plastic removal tool to pry the door panel off. I doubt is would survive. Use the tool to only open the edge of the panel enough to get your fingers behind it.

Once the panel is loose, or before you pry it loose, you also need to remove an 8mm hex head screw under a small plastic panel behind the door opener lever and TWO 10mm hex head screws under the door pull well/power window switch assembly. That little plastic panel has a small lip on it's lower rear corner. You can use a bent paper clip, small screw drive or even your finger if it fits, to catch the lip and pop the panel off. Remove the 10mm hex head screw behind it.

Then you need to remove the entire "pull well - Power window switch assembly. This is accomplished by using a small plastic pry tool inserted into the rear most edge of the door pull well. Use care when doing this and pull in firmly to start to release the steel spring clip that holds the assembly in place. Take care and watch that you do not start to pull out the vinyl fabric cover of the inner door panel. Once the door pull well is out, the electrical connector to the power window switch is removed by finding the usual "squeeze" clip on the connector, depress it, and pull the connector out of the switch. Then find and remove the two 10mm hex head screws that are now visible.

After, the 8mm and TWO 10mm screws are removed, the panel is removed by pulling it upward to release it from the spring metal clips just below the window. Take care now NOT to bend the manual door lock plunger linkage. Once the panel is unclipped and apart from the door, you must remove the door level cable from the lever. There is a small blue plastic clip that surrounds the end of the door opener cable and holds it in place. If you look closely, you will see it has a little "latch" on the end of it. Pull up on the latch gently with a finger nail or small screw driver just enough to unhook it. Then, you can pull the whole cable out (rearward) a bit. Now, simply move the whole cable outwards (sideways) and free from where is was. If you look closely, there is a slot in the cable end holder that allows you to slip the cable into or out of the cable end attachment point.



I needed to do this to install a pair of Rockford Fosgate 6 3/4" speakers. These are 4 ohm speakers and work quite nicely to improve the overall balance of sound on the factory Pioneer head unit. They do not have the "tubby" bass of the original rear Pioneer(?) speakers and have a nice extended and clear high end. They really fill in the whole sound stage and I can now balance out more towards the front Pioneer speakers, which I am leaving in, since they have fairly decent sound and bass output for their size. Also, as some may know, setting the balance a bit more towards the front speakers also drives the rear sub woofer with a bit more signal so that also improves output in the low end.

I know some say or think the Pioneer system in the Equinox-Terrain isn't that great, but with the replacement of the rear door speakers using a 4 ohm 2-way coax speaker of 90db sensitivity or so, I find the system performs quite well. Far from a custom system, but still nice full sound and a surprising good thump of bass when you balance the Frt/Rear about 20% more towards the front speakers and have replaced the rears with some 4 ohm speakers that give a bit more high end and low end clairity and defintion.
 

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Included here are two detailed shots on how to unlatch and disconnect the Rear Door cable from it's inside operating lever.

It's very simple and only a small screw driver is needed to unlatch the blue plastic cable retainer. Once you know the "secret" that the cable end point terminus has a latch on the blue plastic retainer and that there is a slot in the black plastic holder it fits into, the cable removes easily. The slot is in picture two and is in between the two red lines that can be seen in the picture. Once the blue clip is unlatched you merely slide the cable outwards sideways, and then unhook the ball end of the cable from the lever.
 

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Thanks for info :thumb:
 

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Rinox said:
Thanks for info :thumb:
You are quite welcome. . .. . Hope this helps for future owners as well.

The first rear door panel and speaker replacement took me +2 hours. The second took me about 40 minutes, and partly because I ran into some lost hardware for the speaker.
 
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