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Discussion Starter #1
2 inch receiver tow hitch. Reese Part # 51193 (ebay)----------------------------------------------------------$117.79
Hitch shipping--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$0.00
Adapter 4 Pole to 7 Pole Vehicle End Trailer Connector Part # 30717 ------------------------------------------$17.45
Mounting Bracket for 7-Way Part # 18138 ------------------------------------------------------------------------$5.99
No-Drill Mount Bracket, Short Part # 18140---------------------------------------------------------------------- $8.49
Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Part # 56094-------------------$23.74
Shipping e-trailer.com----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$6.99
Bulb grease (auto parts)--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$2.21
Installation fee-------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$0.00

Total-$182.66

My 2013 3.6L Equinox.
I decided to install a 2 inch hitch receiver because my cargo rack and bike rack are 2 inch.
My cargo rack also has LED lamps which I installed on my rack a while back. It has a 7 way connector because my 2003 Trailblazer and 2010 Traverse have factory 7 way connectors. To be able to use the cargo rack lights I decided to install a 4 pin to 7 pin connector. I also think it looks cleaner than a wire hanging under the bumper.
My total cost $182.66.
No fee for installation because I did it myself. I had misc. items laying around--- like electrical tape, zip ties, tools- required for the install.
I wont show pics of the hitch install- since you can see videos on line.
Though I will show some highlights.
The hitch- and its shipping box.



The electrical stuff.



They recommend you have a helping pair of hands.
I opted to use my jack to hold up the hitch while I attached nuts/bolts. I also did not have to lift the vehicle. I used the cardboard to be able to easily slide around.



I opted to use the Curt T-Connector to tap into the lights.



I chose to wrap the wires in black electrical tape. I just didn’t want to look under the vehicle and see multicolored wires running along the bottom.
I also applied a little dielectric grease on connectors--- to make sure water doesnt play havoc.



The instructions for the T-connector call for using a self tapping screw to make a ground connection with the white wire. I didn’t want to drill into the sheet metal (rust in the future?)….. so I decided to attach it to this screw. Once the taillight goes back on- you cant see it.
But first I used my meter- to verify it was a good ground. Set your meter to measure resistance/and tone. Touch your probes tips--- you get a tone—meaning 0 resistance. I then attached 1 probe to the ground wire I just attached to the vehicle--- and then use the other probe and touched one of the large bolts on the hitch--- tone. Meaning it sees little or no resistance. A nice ground.



The 7 pin harness also has a white ground wire. I simply extended the wire and attached it to the left hand side bolt by the taillight . Once again tested with meter= tone. Good ground. (no need to drill).
The 7 pin connector obviously has connections for 12V power, electric brakes, and backup lamps. None of which Im using- so I simply taped up these connections. All I need are the parking lamps, left/right turn and brakes.



I installed the 7 pin connector. I did have to slightly bend the L bracket to allow the rear of the connector to clear the metal tube. But once it was all setup I tested the lights for proper operation. It all worked well. So I finished up wrapping wires in electrical tape. I zipped tied stuff underneath- taking note the path of the dual exhaust. If you look inderneath—it’s a clean and presentable install. The wires are hard to see because theyre all wrapped in black and zip tied.

Here is the finished product.





Now with the cargo rack installed.
On this setup—the only drawback- the dual exhaust are at level with the rack.... so I cant carry stuff there for long distances- if im worried about heat (not an issue on my Trailblazer or Traverse).







And if you want to see the lights in action.. short video of the lamps.
Theres parking lamps on with brakes and turn signals. Also no parking lamps and brakes and emergency flashers.

 

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Great install and pics!

Just an idea, I think you can get a 2" adapter to raise your Cargo Carrier a few inches so you won't have to worry about the exhaust issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah- just saw it pop up on the etrailer banner above.
The one I saw is a 6 inch rise or drop.
Now I know I can get it if I decide to take a long trip and need the extra capacity.
 

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Nice! Looks like a straightforward install. Thanks for the detailed instructions. I'm considering one if these at some point for a bike rack and would likely add some LEDs to it so I'd need the wiring too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In your case you just need the 4 pin for the signals.
Ive seen some mounts that allow the 4 pin to be mounted nicely.
Not hanging...

Im not fond of loose wiring.

heres a nice one



this-- I dont like..
Ive seen many cars dragging that connector on the road....



 

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The first picture from etrailer is the stock 4-pin connector that was re-used on a new 2-inch receiver. Good job on the install, we are going to change our stock receiver to a 2-inch one soon.
 

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Good to know about the 4 pin. Definitely like the clean, finished look with the mounted connector.
 

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I didn't like the exposed hitch look where the panel was removed that showed the hitch crossbar behind the bumper so I tried to re install the plastic cover piece that was returned to me after the 2" hitch was installed. The problem with that was the locking tabs that hold the cover piece on were broken off by the installer when he initially removed it from the bumper skin. I ordered a new cover piece from the dealer for around $12 and using the old cover piece with all the tabs cut off , made a template of the cutout area I would need to make the piece fit tight around the hitch. Then I placed the template piece over the new piece and scribed the outline of the cutout onto the new piece, then cut out the hole/square notch. I placed the newly modified cover piece over the 2" receiver and trial fit it almost until the tabs snapped in place-BUT did not allow them to catch as I wanted to take the piece back off and carefully trim the notch to get it to fit around the 2" receiver hitch without a gap. When I thought it was cut sufficiently, I placed the plastic cover piece back in place and allowed the tabs to fully snap in place. Some pictures below (excuse thumb in picture 4- using I phone):
 

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Nice job, looks great!

Where is the electrical plug?
 

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The plug is tucked into the back opening of the 2" square and is held to the tow bar with cable ties. Only about 6" of free length is available- just enough to enable me to remove the plug from the back side of the opening and replace it after towing is completed. I couldn't use the regular holder for a 4 wire plug because my trailer required a 5 wire plug (5th wire operates the reverse lockout solenoid on the surge brake master cylinder installed on the trailer tongue- couldn't back up the trailer without this because the reverse movement of the Nox would apply the brakes on the trailer). The placement of the plug in the back side of the hitch makes the hitch install look better (in my opinion) and I don't have wires hanging down or a visible plug/bracket. I have seen some brackets installed into the plastic bumper cover with sheet metal screws that can't be expected to hold up.
 

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Nice info on the wiring. I had also thought about trimming up the access cover to finish off around the hitch.
Those crimp conectors can cause a proble down the road if they get wet or salt in them. I like to solder instead or at least use some shrink tube on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah I wondered about my cover.. though im sure it wont fit with my 7 way connector there now....

I was looking at the nox yesterday as I walked up the driveway-- and I thought---- kind of looks like a strong little CUV with the duals and the 2 incher on there....
I Know the 3.6 can tow-- the limitation is the body....

I mean my Traverse's 3.6 with the 6 speed is rated for 5200 lb tow capacity with 281 HP/266 TQ..... the 3.6 in the Nox is 301 HP/272 Tq....

so the engine definitely has the power.

But all I will 'tow' are a bike rack and cargo rack.....
 

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rbarrios said:
yeah I wondered about my cover.. though im sure it wont fit with my 7 way connector there now....

I was looking at the nox yesterday as I walked up the driveway-- and I thought---- kind of looks like a strong little CUV with the duals and the 2 incher on there....
I Know the 3.6 can tow-- the limitation is the body....

I mean my Traverse's 3.6 with the 6 speed is rated for 5200 lb tow capacity with 281 HP/266 TQ..... the 3.6 in the Nox is 301 HP/272 Tq....

so the engine definitely has the power.

But all I will 'tow' are a bike rack and cargo rack.....


Just curious, does the Traverse sit on a full Frame, or is it a Unibody like the Nox?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
unibody...

the Traverse with no tow package-- is rated to tow 2000 lbs.

(the traverse factory tow kit- includes a heavy duty radiator for extra engine and trans cooling).
 

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I just installed a Hidden Hitch on our '13 1LT.
There are the plates that go up alongside the the frame rails, but there is also a plate on each side that is supposed to bolt to the underside of the same frame rail.
The holes are there, but no nuts.
There is also no way to get to these locations unless you completely remove the rear bumper and support.

rbarrios,
Did your Nox have nuts for those bolts?


I also noticed there is a piece of foam for the rear bumper.
This foam basically just floats around in there. Fairly tight, but still moves around.
I wonder if that is the thumping noise we hear sometimes while going down the road.
Maybe air circulating around there bouncing the piece around.
 

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RealmSteel said:
I just installed a Hidden Hitch on our '13 1LT.
There are the plates that go up alongside the the frame rails, but there is also a plate on each side that is supposed to bolt to the underside of the same frame rail.
The holes are there, but no nuts.
There is also no way to get to these locations unless you completely remove the rear bumper and support.

rbarrios,
Did your Nox have nuts for those bolts?


I also noticed there is a piece of foam for the rear bumper.
This foam basically just floats around in there. Fairly tight, but still moves around.
I wonder if that is the thumping noise we hear sometimes while going down the road.
Maybe air circulating around there bouncing the piece around.

I installed the same type of hitch and mine came with bolts/plates/ and Pull wire to get at those holes on the underside of the frame.
 

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I'm not talking about the ones near the center.

In the first picture above you see the two vertical plates. Those plates have a bent tabs with a hole that goes to the underside of the frame rails. Those are the two places where there are no nuts and no access to install the carriage bolts with the small square plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
no - no bolts there...

you simply use the pull wire and the bolt and plate.
slide the pull wire thru the plate--- then thread the bolt.

then you insert bolt 1st into the opening-- then the plate- the plate is turned to its side--- once inside you can turn it flat-- and then pull on the wire- and bolt should fall thru..

I actually recorded my 3 yr old doing this..... since he wanted to help.....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
IM me- I can send you the video of my kid putting the plate/bolt thru the hole.. Its about 3.7 MB in size...


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