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Discussion Starter #1
We just got our 2019 Terrain SLE 10 days ago and love it so far.
We're debating of having it Rustproofed.
The longest we've ever kept a vehicle is 5 years and I've been driving for 54 years. We live in an area that receives moderate snow and the roads get treated with salt and a brine solution that consists of beet juice. I've read that the beet juice is more destructive to a vehicle that the salt is but I really don't know this as fact.
In our area we have the following options available for rust prevention::
1. Dripless oil which can range from just doing the underneath of the vehicle to doing inside the doors, tailgate and engine area. The downside of dripless oil is that I've heard some reports of it plugging the bottom drains in the doors to the point that the doors fill up with water. It's an easy fix if it happens but sill a negative. Also, this is not a 1 time treatment but probably not required yearly either. Does not come with a warranty of any kind. Cost here is $120 for complete treatment or $50.00 for just underneath.
2. Krown rustproofing. This is not a dripless treatment and to keep the warranty valid, it must be done yearly at a cost here of about $120.00. I've read tha Krown is very messy for a while due to the dripping. My brother-in-law has a 2012 Cruze that's been Krown treated since new and after 3 years he had to replace all the door seal rubber. After a fight, Krown paid the cost of the replacement.
3. Electronic module. After a lot of reading, I'm skeptical that they work at all so it's not in the running.

My gut tells me to save my money if I'm keeping the vehicle for less that 7 years but I was curious what others are doing.

Regards
Greg
 

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'Moderate Snow' Wow, you are being conservative, I have seen your area getting plastered with 3 or more feet of snow at a time. Being between Lake Huron and Lake Eire is no fun. I have had for the last 5 years being getting all my vehicles Krowned. I do it in the summer as it is cheaper. I know about the drip, it will leave stains, but they do not stay. I just do not go visiting somebody else while the vehicle stabilizes. The little box in the engine bay is just a joke. If you watch on YouTube, they will point out the rust on the bracket that holds the box. That Brine is deadly when it gets on Windows, the **** stuff will not come off. I have never heard of Door seals having a problem with Krown, none of my vehicles have had issues and they included, a 2013 Chevy Trax, 2015 Chevy Trax, 2016 Dodge Journey (a moment of weakness) 2017 Chevy Suburban, and lastly 2018 Terrain.
 

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The electronic rustproofing is garbage, don't waste your money.

I'd get the dripless undercoat complete treatment then just the underspray next year. After that, you can skip a year as it should be built up enough to last.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
'Moderate Snow' Wow, you are being conservative, I have seen your area getting plastered with 3 or more feet of snow at a time. Being between Lake Huron and Lake Eire is no fun. I have had for the last 5 years being getting all my vehicles Krowned. I do it in the summer as it is cheaper. I know about the drip, it will leave stains, but they do not stay. I just do not go visiting somebody else while the vehicle stabilizes. The little box in the engine bay is just a joke. If you watch on YouTube, they will point out the rust on the bracket that holds the box. That Brine is deadly when it gets on Windows, the **** stuff will not come off. I have never heard of Door seals having a problem with Krown, none of my vehicles have had issues and they included, a 2013 Chevy Trax, 2015 Chevy Trax, 2016 Dodge Journey (a moment of weakness) 2017 Chevy Suburban, and lastly 2018 Terrain.
Interesting that you've never had an issue with your door seals. I suppose it could be that he had a poor application done that got to the door rubbers.
As far as snow, we're really lucky in Tillsonburg. We're about 20 kms south of the 401 and when London and Woodstock get hammered with a really bad snow storm, 90% of the time it misses us........thank gawd.
 

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Its puzzling about the door seals, one of the reasons I do the Krown in the summer is that its cheaper and they give you swag. In this case a big spray can of the same stuff they put on the vehicle. I use that to spray my window and door seals all the time and no issues at all. When Krown does your car they do drill holes in the doors and jambs in order to spray into the areas. They then put a little plastic cap over the hole. It makes it easier for them the next time as the initial work has been done. I know of people for whom that does not sit right with them. I guess only time will tell if Krown works, I do plan on keeping my Suburban and My Wifes Terrain for as long as possible so I will post back in 8 years lol. By the way I do not work for Krown.
 

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A couple of things.

First, according to every source I looked at, the addition of sugar beet liquid makes the brine solution less corrosive. See here for one of many examples: https://www.modot.org/sugar-beets

Gm has, for many years, uses a galvanizing dip process to fight corrosion. After the body has been assembled it is dipped into a tank of zinc. Here is a you tube video if the 2016 Cruze being built and you can see the process.

GM gives you a 6 year rust through warranty surface rust is for 3 years as I recall.

Google a reputable non-biased opinion and you will get the impression that dealer installed rust-proofing is a money maker, but is not really worth it. Here is another video

Personally, I would pass
 

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I just sprayed a liberal amount of LPS 2 in the drain holes
off the doors and the hatch. Once the dripping stopped, I wiped
off any left on the surface and went on with life.
SO far so good. Plenty of salt and brine used here in Wisconsin.


My 2¢
 

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My policy is to always just go with what you get from the manufacturer. I’ve never had any faith in any of these aftermarket solutions, whether it be warranties, rust-proofing, or anything else.

But then again - I moved out of New England over 20 years ago and haven’t had to worry about rust on vehicles. And I’ve recently *seen* rust on quarter panels that reminded me of what was commonplace in the 70’s. So maybe rusty cars are making a comeback?
 

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Rust proofing is optional.....whether we use it or not...but mostly using it for the own safety of the unit and it will last long. You can apply by yourself or much better refer it from the less and not expensive shop that good for Rust Proofing...:)
 

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I used to rust proof cars at a ford dealership many years ago. The warranty is useless and many came back and they were all given a story about how they didn't come back to re-apply or some other "owner at fault" story. The mechanics hated working on any "rust proofed" car as connectors, wiring and components were gooped up with the slop and made their job a lot more difficult. If you're going to do it, do it when the car is NEW so the stuff doesn't seal in sand/salt/debris and moisture making the vehicle MORE prone to rust. JMO.. Personally I never rust proof any of my vehicles and I'm in Northern Michigan. I use an underbody washing wand hooked up to my power washer and rinse the bottom of the vehicle frequently if there's salt or brine on the roads. Also make sure to keep your drain holes clear. I have an 18 year old buick regal LS with zero body rust and it's a daily driver that's never been "rustproofed"
 

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I rust proofed one vehicle in my life as a personal study. End result, I will not do it again.
Car: 2009 Pontiac Vibe
Owned: new Nov 2008 to Aug 2017, 132,000kms at time of sale.
Rust Proof: Krown
Pros:
1. no rust anywhere on the vehicle except on the oil dip stick oddly enough.
Cons:
1. Despite the cost of annual application which was maintained every year I gained no resale value increase
2. Krown oil would drip through most of the year making the bottom of the doors and rockers attract dirt and dust. I also had to park on the street for at least a week or else my garage or driveway would be a mess.
3. The Krown solution ended up swelling most of the rubber seals, most notably underhood. Front and rear seal to the hood were distorted to the point they were probably not sealing much at all.
4. I hated this part, application required the tech to drill holes into the doors and body. It never rusted from these holes but drilling holes into a brand new car never felt comfortable to me. Also, the plugs they used in the door jam ended up chafing on the door seals.

Bottom line, 9yrs of applications at $135 a pop, $1215 total I never got back in resale of the car.

I live in Southwestern Ontario, 30 min from Detroit so we get some snow but not a lot.
 

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It sounds to me that you did ok by the rust proofing, I do know what you mean by the god awful mess it creates if you do it in the summer, I also had to park on the street for a week and you really could tell where the vehicle was. I am not sure if Krown advertises enhanced value at resale as to be honest I never even considered that angle and you are right it is 145 a year for reapplication. I dont care about their warranty as I usually consider warranty to be a waste of time and never worry about it. Only time will tell if my wifes 18 Terrain holds up as its is coming into its third winter. I am willing to give it time as Most of my previous vehicles just rusted away, anything is better than having that happen.
 

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Lot of good info here. I live in TX so I don't really have to worry about rust...I just have to worry about not having heat strokes :p
 

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Yeah, i guess a little bit of rust on a car is a small price to pay to avoid a heat stroke. Although, even in the Northeast, it has been an abnormally hot Summer so far. I can't imagine if this, or even hotter were the norm. But, you can ship some of your winter weather up here this winter.
 
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It sounds to me that you did ok by the rust proofing,
The thing is, I don't think there would have been much if any rust even without the Krown. In the same time span that I owned the Vibe I owned a 2006 Explorer. I sold both in 2017 and although the Explorer had underbody rust, none was visible so the SUV still looked good and surprisingly sold for more than the Vibe even with nearly twice the miles on it. It was only an XLT, nothing special.
I usually get rid of cars when they start nickle and diming me so I don't usually keep them for more than 10yrs. The last car I had that had visible rust was a 95 Escort GT that I owned for 12 yrs which is one of the exceptions. I have to think paint systems on new cars are better than they were 25 yrs ago so I don't expect to see rust inside of 10yrs unless it comes from paint damage/chips which even Krown or any rust proofing can't prevent.
 
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