Multiple fails, not sure where to go from here. No codes.
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Last time I changed my oil I noticed a metal ring hanging before the flex pipe (towards the front of the car) I cut it off as it was just bouncing around. It was maybe 1/8" thick. I was told it was possibly part of the flex pipe.Tank,
My 2017 2.4L Equinox shows module $7E8 as the ECM. To me the first image looks like Evap troubles. ( Gas cap, an Evap vacuum leak, Evap solenoid valves not opening/closing properly ) Some of the remaining errors look like O2 sensor troubles but since there are two heater fails at the same time I would check the O2 heater circuits first before replacing the O2 sensors. The slow response message might be signs of cat failure or poor cat performance. I would try to resolve the O2 sensor issues and then retest, before replacing the cat.
100k miles on them. Bank 2 reads .7 volts, bank 1 is reading .2 - .4vHow many miles on the O2 sensor ? I just changed my 100k sensors with a fresh set of AC ones in my Tahoe after loosing mpg for the last 20k miles and after 1500 miles my avg. mileage is up 1.9 mpg. on multiple identical 500 mile trips before the virus.
O2 sensors are now on my maint. replacement list at 80k miles on my fleet.
No codes or detectable issues with the old ones either.
Will that cause rough idle and stalling? Still trying to track this down. Majority of issue is at cold startup so o2 makes alot of sense. Also still confused why I dont get a code. I did have a p0506 pend while the rpms dropped but its generic and not to much to go by (I already knew my rpms were low lol) I do agree regardless 100k on a sensor is time to replace, I typically go by 80k miles to start considering replacing.Delayed response and heater codes I'd change the O2 sensor at your mileage. Heaters are there to get sensors up to temp. faster so system goes closed loop for faster emissions compliance so bad heater will make for a slow responding sensor or make a weak one worse. Sensor not up to temp. will keep system in open loop which is a richer mixture to keep engine running, think of open loop as a electronic ''carburetor choke''. Sensor fails way more common than harness issues. Check for corrosion in connectors when changing them and harness no contacting exhaust, critter damage, etc. .
Upstream sensors control engine fueling, after cat just checks that cat is functioning and nothing else.
I've seen some odd battery behavior as well. The few voltage issues I have (no cel) seem to just point at the battery. Car turns over quick even after sitting for a few days. I'm probably overthinking it and just need to grab a new battery already, it's been cold and raining so I've been unmotivated to get to it. In the meantime I'm just reading up on issues and that's not always the thing to do lol.Could be weak battery or connections. I would check voltage at the battery with a meter to confirm what scan tool sees.
Battery strong and stable is a priority in todays vehicles. Since voltage goes as high as it does seems like alt. is working fine. Load test on battery is the only way to confirm it's health and even then battery could be bad. In the last 10 yrs. I've had 3 batteries fail with intermittent internal connector issues. Symptom was no start, smack battery and headlights would come back on and vehicle would start. I'll confess that it was so weird and erratic I was looking skyward for passing over UFO's. LOL
2 batteries in my old Sable and one in my Tahoe. 2 Duracraps and one DieFast battery. They would always load check OK when carried into the store after being pulled out.
Could be weak battery or connections. I would check voltage at the battery with a meter to confirm what scan tool sees.
Battery strong and stable is a priority in todays vehicles.