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Hi I need a full help on how to change oil on my 4cyl terrain it is it's first change oil and I was surprised by the oil filter as I never changed filter like that. And what do i need and where it's located
 

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Hint : Look from the top of the engine, not from the bottom. You also need a large socket - maybe 1 1/4" - not exactly sure. Do a search, and you will find more info.
 

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Cool but I need more info for a noobie like me, I have the Oil and filter I just dont know how to do the filter.

I bought Mobile 1 Full-synthetic and Fram filter.

Need help how to do this guys I may look on top of the engine but i'm not sure which one for the oil filter?

Picture will help if you have any.
thanks a lot.
 

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Do NOT buy Fram filters for the Ecotec engines. The oil pressure is so high it literally collapses the filter media and it starved the engine of oil. Fram is one of the worst filters you can buy these days.

If you look at the engine intake you will see a plastic cover with a bolt like thing sticking up out of it. Now, this is a Malibu but its in the same spot right behind the dipstick.

http://img516.imageshack.us/i/img1870largexn3.jpg/

You will HAVE to use this socket to get it off. HAVE to. If you dont you will round off the plastic nut.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14700-Filter-Wrench-2-2L/dp/B0009OMYAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1277439088&sr=8-1

It says its for the 2.2 but they are exactly the same filter cap.

Now, some oil filters will come with a new oring for the filter cap but I dont replace them unless the current one is damaged or cracking.

The oil pan drain plug is on the back of the oil pan. Cant miss it. IIRC, its a 12 MM but I could be wrong because I changed the oil last week. FWIW, I didnt even have to lift the vehicle either. It was tight but I fit in there and could loosen and tighten the oil drain bolt pretty easy.

Also, take out the filter FIRST but loosen the dipstick out of its tube. Then replace the filter cap back on so dirt/debris wont get back in there but dont tighten it. If you do, you basically put a vacuum on the system and you will get a HUGE mess on the bottom side when the oil is coming out. Trust me on that. lol
 

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A GOOD name brand. Purolater, Mobil 1, K&N (not sure if they make one yet).

Pull the filters out of the box and look at them. Without the cover over the media, its really easy to tell which are good filters and which are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cool, so drain it first right then oil filter after oil filter put back the drain plug then put oil ..cool i'll di it this sunday ill let you know
 

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I changed the oil filter first and leave the filter cap sort of on, and then drain the oil. If you try to drain the oil first, then you will create that vacuum that I was talking about.
 

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As mentioned in other post's, take out the filter first. I did oil/filter change and used the AC Delco 457G Filter AND Pennzoil Ultra 5w30. Mileage was around 2700. Glad I did it before the OLM told me. Will probably change again at 6 or 7 thousand miles.
 

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I am not sure where the information comes from that there is any problem of any kind with the Fram oil filters. I know it has been popular to say that they are not good filters but, I have never seen anything that actually details any kind of a failure or problem. I believe that you can buy filters that filter finer particles from the oil but, I am not sure that the filtering quality of the Fram filter could be considered substandard in any way. I have used them in business (sold hundreds in my auto parts store) and for my own cars, trucks, boats and motorcycles for many, many years. Never a problem of any kind.
 

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During high RPM driving the Fram filters have a history of collapsing and starving #2 and 3 pistons of oil and causing spun bearings. People take out the engines, pull the filter and its completely collapsed on its self. They are just POS crap. In the full canister filters, the end caps are CARDBOARD not metal. That is a HUGE problem in engines that have a higher RPM as it just cant withstand the high pressures of the oil.

For $2 more you can get a QUALITY filter. Totally worth it IMHO.
 

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So, using the OEM AC Delco 457G should be ok. If Chevy put it in and I put it in AND I now use Pennzoil Ultra I would presume all will be better than just the plain old FF ( I read somewhere that the FF is Mobil 5000)
 

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bballr4567 said:
During high RPM driving the Fram filters have a history of collapsing and starving #2 and 3 pistons of oil and causing spun bearings. People take out the engines, pull the filter and its completely collapsed on its self. They are just POS crap. In the full canister filters, the end caps are CARDBOARD not metal. That is a HUGE problem in engines that have a higher RPM as it just cant withstand the high pressures of the oil.

For $2 more you can get a QUALITY filter. Totally worth it IMHO.
You will have to help me on this one. How can an oil filter (good or bad) cause the selective failure of pistons or bearings. Oil filters are generally, if not always, a parallel oil path. Only a portion of the oil goes through the filter on each pass and if the filter were completely plugged the engine would still get oil. The same goes for high RPM or cold engine oiling issues. As far as engine failures of any sort caused by defective oil filters, I believe you would find it hard to identify any, let alone a chronic, problem. If Fram did have a chronic problem, the courts would be loaded with lawsuits and litigation. Again, I am not aware of this going on anyplace. There are some lubrication products that I personally don’t care for. However, the reality is that failures of any kind in a modern engine due to oil or oil filter problems almost doesn’t exist. Modern oils and engines are really quite amazing.
 

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Maybe makers of expensive oil filters spread these stories to get people to buy their product. Just sayin...
 

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I'm on Fram's side - used them for y-e-a-r-s and never an engine problem.
 

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rcturner said:
You will have to help me on this one. How can an oil filter (good or bad) cause the selective failure of pistons or bearings. Oil filters are generally, if not always, a parallel oil path. Only a portion of the oil goes through the filter on each pass and if the filter were completely plugged the engine would still get oil. The same goes for high RPM or cold engine oiling issues. As far as engine failures of any sort caused by defective oil filters, I believe you would find it hard to identify any, let alone a chronic, problem. If Fram did have a chronic problem, the courts would be loaded with lawsuits and litigation. Again, I am not aware of this going on anyplace. There are some lubrication products that I personally don’t care for. However, the reality is that failures of any kind in a modern engine due to oil or oil filter problems almost doesn’t exist. Modern oils and engines are really quite amazing.
It has to do with the way that GM created the oil paths on the Ecotec. I dont know why but Fram filters collapse and then the motor is done for.

Look, all this arguing of $2-3 is STUPID. If you feel that cardboard crap, yes, they are cardboard and CRAP, is good enough for your engine then so be it. Seriously, cut open a Fram and a Mobil 1 filter when you have a chance and you will be SHOCKED at the crap that Fram calls quality. If you used them 3-4 years ago, it was a different filter design. After that they changed the design so that it cost them less to produce and make more profits.

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21883344-Tech-Review-The-Long-Waited-FRAM-OIL-FILTER-REVIEW

This is a motorcycle filter. Crap and cardboard there too!!

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml

Here is the AC Delco part. Can you tell the difference?

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/acdelco.shtml
 

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rcturner said:
I am not sure where the information comes from that there is any problem of any kind with the Fram oil filters. I know it has been popular to say that they are not good filters but, I have never seen anything that actually details any kind of a failure or problem. I believe that you can buy filters that filter finer particles from the oil but, I am not sure that the filtering quality of the Fram filter could be considered substandard in any way. I have used them in business (sold hundreds in my auto parts store) and for my own cars, trucks, boats and motorcycles for many, many years. Never a problem of any kind.
For the same price I can get a better designed filter, which filters lower, and has a better designed ADBV (anti-drainback valve) setup. I run filters by dana corp (wix, napa gold), good price and great overall filters. I cannot see paying 10.00 for a similar quality filter (mobil 1, k&n)...But this is why people hate fram, for the price it should be a nicely designed filter, but it is not. This is why alot of people do not like fram, look at any site that has opened the filters up, they all say the same....Cheap.

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1911376&page=1
 

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It was mentioned that some acceptable oil filters would be Purolator, Mobil and K&N with the Fram being a no-no. The OEM on our 4 cyl was not mentioned. I have changed the FF to Pennzoil Ultra and wonder if I should have maybe used a different filter than the ACD 457G?
 

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Our OEM filter was a Hetco. Ive NEVER heard of that brand. After 2600 miles, the media was showing serious wear. There is NO way in hell that it would of stood up to the 7k that the OLM was saying would be ok.
 

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Is Wallyworld selling the OEM AC Fliters? I always bought AC for my Trailblazer there, The PF46 was like $3.57 ea. Why in the world would anyone want to save 20 cents on a filter for a lesser brand is beyond me.
 
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