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Discussion Starter #1
I had this exact problem one year ago, took my car to the dealer (who had NO IDEA what this was, for $2,500!), yet changed both computer systems on my '10 Equinox. This problem has arisen once or twice shortly thereafter the "repair" and just presented itself more or less a year-to-date.

With no warning, upon starting cold or after a stop, the brake becomes HARD and won't release--therefore the vehicle won't move. When it does release ('if' it releases), the vehicle will stutter for a bit as if its not getting gas, then it disappears. 'If' this symtom locks in from a cold start or stop, the car will not move. You're stuck wherever you are! In the case moments ago, it didn't quite lock up when pulling away from a Stop sign.

ANY advice regarding this mystery fix would be greatly appreciated! I will add that when this originally happened one year ago, I got a Check Engine warning light on my dashboard, which has yet to to present itself again.
 

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Very likely that brake lines in front need to be replaced and maybe calipers too The hoses are collapsed. Fluid goes to the calipers and can't get back so they stay locked. Happened to vues all the time...all the theta bodies had the same system.
 
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John, your 3-replies may make the single most sense of anything I have heard to-date. The dealer had at one point said it "maybe the master cylinders have gone bad," but instead gouged me for $2,500 and overhauled my electrical system instead. Regardless, I like your hypothesis and appreciate the reply and archived responses (Vue). Much appreciated! Thank you!
 

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Best of luck...hope it's helpful. Be sure to post back if you straighten it out so we maybe can help someone else in the same position. The exact same thing happened to my vue so when I read your post it was a very familiar story.
 
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I do not see what year your car is. If it is older, then front or any brake hoses are suspect. It is very common after many years of use for them to come apart inside while looking great outside. When they do come apart pieces get stuck inside and the very low pressure on the return of the calipers can not get the fluid back again. I have seen this failure on many vehicles over the years. I suspect the front more than the rears but I have seen failures on both. Hoses are cheap to replace especially if you do the work yourself and it is a good opportunity to flush the brake fluid at the same time since you will be bleeding the system after hose replacement. I would do one wheel at a time and then bleed that one before going to the next.



This is just a thought and not a guaranteed fix.
 

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OK, I just looked up a 2010 Equinox on Rock Auto and those hoses are between $11 and $25 each. If it were ,I would replace all 4 of them. Then bleed the brakes. It is not a big job but it still is a guess from some guy on the Internet and you will be out $50 to $70 if our guess is wrong.
 

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Having just read both of your posts, I wanted to comment that I had only the front hoses done by my local mechanic yesterday. Unfortunately, I don't know how to do myself. That being said, I did only the front as the problem (likely) stems more from there, but if acts up again, I have no problem replacing the back hoses as well.
 

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I hope that takes care of it. As I said before this was a guess. Remotely diagnosing a problem over the internet is difficult and seldom 100% correct. I am working right now with a guy over 1000 miles away on a generator in a motor home. I ask a question, he takes a reading and a day later I get an answer. Then we ask another question and repeat the process until we find the problem. I sit here and say I wish I could get my eyes on the actual item and just fix it.



Good Luck.

Hopefully your is fixed.

Ken
 

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Story time: I had to chuckle at this as it brought back memories of the first brake job I did on my first car--a '56 Chevy BelAir with a 300 hp 327 and 3-speed manual on the floor. This was in 1969, shortly after I had swapped engine and transmission and gotten the car back on the road; decided it was time to refresh the complete brake system. Pulled and rebuilt/replaced master cylinder and all wheel cylinders, brake linings, had drums turned, etc. Finished reinstalling everything (at military auto hobby shop) and drove back to the barracks (3 blocks away). At the first "stop" sign car stopped with no problems--but it wouldn't move again, or at least not without applying many of those 300 horses. Hobby shop was closed by that time, so I proceeded to the barracks and returned to the hobby shop the next day. Tore out the master cylinder since all four brakes were malfunctioning and it was the sole common point. Discovered when I had reinstalled the dust boot on the master cylinder, I had positioned it such that, when actuating the brakes, it entered the area between the piston and the actuating rod and effectively kept the piston from returning, uncovering the relief ports and allowing the pressure to be released. Simple problem, but major consequences in drivability!! I learned a lot with that car.
 

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Best of luck...hope it's helpful. Be sure to post back if you straighten it out so we maybe can help someone else in the same position. The exact same thing happened to my vue so when I read your post it was a very familiar story.
Problem is back--TWICE in 24 hours last weekend. Surprisingly it released after sitting for only a minute or two. Regardless, vehicle is just sitting at the auto place until it "recreates" for them... which will be slim to nil. This problem is exhausting my wallet, patience and belief in GM products!
 

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Story time: I had to chuckle at this as it brought back memories of the first brake job I did on my first car--a '56 Chevy BelAir with a 300 hp 327 and 3-speed manual on the floor. This was in 1969, shortly after I had swapped engine and transmission and gotten the car back on the road; decided it was time to refresh the complete brake system. Pulled and rebuilt/replaced master cylinder and all wheel cylinders, brake linings, had drums turned, etc. Finished reinstalling everything (at military auto hobby shop) and drove back to the barracks (3 blocks away). At the first "stop" sign car stopped with no problems--but it wouldn't move again, or at least not without applying many of those 300 horses. Hobby shop was closed by that time, so I proceeded to the barracks and returned to the hobby shop the next day. Tore out the master cylinder since all four brakes were malfunctioning and it was the sole common point. Discovered when I had reinstalled the dust boot on the master cylinder, I had positioned it such that, when actuating the brakes, it entered the area between the piston and the actuating rod and effectively kept the piston from returning, uncovering the relief ports and allowing the pressure to be released. Simple problem, but major consequences in drivability!! I learned a lot with that car.
Problem is back--TWICE in 24 hours last weekend. Surprisingly it released after sitting for only a minute or two. Regardless, vehicle is just sitting at the auto place until it "recreates" for them... which will be slim to nil. This problem is exhausting my wallet, patience and belief in GM products!
 

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OK, I just looked up a 2010 Equinox on Rock Auto and those hoses are between $11 and $25 each. If it were ,I would replace all 4 of them. Then bleed the brakes. It is not a big job but it still is a guess from some guy on the Internet and you will be out $50 to $70 if our guess is wrong.
Problem is back--TWICE in 24 hours last weekend. Surprisingly it released after sitting for only a minute or two. Regardless, vehicle is just sitting at the auto place until it "recreates" for them... which will be slim to nil. This problem is exhausting my wallet, patience and belief in GM products!
 

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One thing you can do, not easy sometimes. When the brakes are locked up, get under there and open a bleeder screw on a caliper. If fluid shoots out with some pressure that's the problem line. But there are also a lot of brake calipers with plastic/phenolic pistons that do absorb some of the brake fluid over the many years and swell when hot. You would probably have a very hot brake on that wheel. Not unusual and when one goes another isn't far behind.
 
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