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Discussion Starter #1
I know the 4 cyl requires synthetic, but I want to put a full synthetic in the 6 cyl. Has anyone done it yet??

I used to used Mobil 1 full Synthetic in my Camry with no problems, but I don't know what GM thinks of it
 

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The 4cyl doesn't "require" synthetic....you can use syth or dino with either engine. Your preference..neither will void the warranty and some GM cars come preloaded with synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, good. I'm throwing mobil 1 in it the moment I need to...

Just bought a K & N filter for it as well =) Nothing like trying to save some gas mileage
 

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USFwrestler said:
ok, good. I'm throwing mobil 1 in it the moment I need to...

Just bought a K & N filter for it as well =) Nothing like trying to save some gas mileage
I think there was a poll thread here once, and the majority of posters here are using some form of synthetic regardless of I4 or V6. I use Mobil 1 on my 4cyl..
 

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Interesting comment on the I4 needing syn.
Did you mean the 2011's needing DEXOS?


But has anyone done Used oil Analysis on their 2010/2011 I-4's or V6?

As for Mobil1--- It would be interesting to see results for this in the I4.
Is the I4 Direct Injection?

Ill make a comment here- as to why im curious.
I have a 2010 Traverse- with the DI engine.
Im running Valvoline Premium Conventional 5W-30- its regular dino oil.
Theres other members running Mobil1 5W-30.
And their Used Oil Analysis show the 3.6 DI engine is beating the heck out of Mobil1. quite a few Mobil1 users show HIGH iron counts.
My Used oil report showed LESS iron (at 6K and 12K--- this is still break in)- with 5000 miles on my dino oil- than multiple Mobil1 reports with mileage on the oil of 3000 to 5000.
This was on MULTIPLE vehicle reports running Mobil1-
Ive seen Mobil1 UOA reports where the iron count is 2-5 times higher than my dino oil.
Some of the members then used Pennz Ultra or Platinum (and or another brand)- and then had UOA- and the iron counts improved- significantly.

Well- as you can imagine- Mobil1 is not recommended for the Acadia,Traverse,Enclave on those forums. My Valvoline dino oil has also been adopted by other members- and shown nice results over the other oil....
 

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12k is not break-in...lol.....did you change it before 6k?

were you guys running the same filters?
same climates?
same driving styles/speeds?
same gas even?

not to mention, when were the vehicles produced? even close to one another?

its difficult to compare UOA's to other peoples vehicles because there are too many variables.....its only best to compare them to your own past UOA's
 

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I just talked to my brother about this. He's a 20+ year GM dealer mechanic and recommended it. He advised me that regardless of what the oil life indicator sensor says, to change over to synthetic @ 3K and 500 miles afterwards do another oil change to get ride of the initial oil 3K change which would have some original factory (conventional) oil mixed with the synthetic.

USFwrestler said:
I know the 4 cyl requires synthetic, but I want to put a full synthetic in the 6 cyl. Has anyone done it yet??

I used to used Mobil 1 full Synthetic in my Camry with no problems, but I don't know what GM thinks of it
 

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I know 500 miles is usually considered breakin.
But looking at my UOA- I still had iron going down at 12,000- im pretty confident that if I did another UOA at my next change around 25,000 that it would be lower than my reading at 12K.

Thus my comment on it still being at the tail end of a breakin at 12K.

I was running ACDELCO filters.
Some of those guys were running fancier filters... (Mobil1 filters and some other popular filters)
My Valvoline was used in mild So Cal weather.
Most of the 'bad' UAO were from owners in cold weather running Mobil1.

But theres enough UOA from the 3.6 DI to show- that Mobil1 does badly in these vehicles.
And most owners report an improvement in the UOA when they dont use it.
theres plenty of posted UOA reports on the acadia forum to make you think twice about it.

Theres also mention about the Mobil1 5W-30 not being a full synthetic anymore--
 

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Solrak69 said:
I just talked to my brother about this. He's a 20+ year GM dealer mechanic and recommended it. He advised me that regardless of what the oil life indicator sensor says, to change over to synthetic @ 3K and 500 miles afterwards do another oil change to get ride of the initial oil 3K change which would have some original factory (conventional) oil mixed with the synthetic.
Yeah- the OLM is interesting.
I fully trust it on my 2003 Trailblazer, 2007 Impala, 08 Lucerne.
In my trailblazer- I change oil based on OLM. The oil goes between 10,500 to 11,500 miles between oil changes.
Ive had UOA done at 103,000 and 146,000 and the OLM was right on with the condition of the oil- just as the analysis reported. The oil was at the end of its life.
I now have 157,000 on the Trailblazer and its still purring along.
Now- with the Direct Injection engine- especially the one used in the Lambdas- (3.6)- many of the owners have found that the OLM does not coincide with the analysis. Were seeing that the oil is getting beat up much earlier thatn what the OLM would suggest.
Thats why I only go to 50% OLM and then change oil.
Owners on the lambda forums with 2011 seem to be displaying OLM readings that are more in tune with the actual oil life.. so the OLM may have been modified for 2011.

If I get a NOX- I would run several UOA on the oil to determine how this DI engine is treating the oil and how accurate the OLM is...
 

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I use Amsoil syn 5-30/Wix filters in all my vehicles and do UOA on my Harleys. I have 3 UOA kits left but don't have enough miles for a change yet. Can't wait to see the results.
 

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rbarrios said:
Theres also mention about the Mobil1 5W-30 not being a full synthetic anymore--
you have to get the bottles that say "full synthetic" because just the " Mobil1 Synthetic" is actually a blend. The same thing happened with Royal Purple. I used it until I started noticing that it said "blend" on it. The full synthetic RP is very hard to find and costs like $13 a quart. All retailers for Royal Purple say that they dont carry the full synthetic because it doesnt sell.

I will think twice about using Mobil1 now. There are lots of other brands, maybe ill try Amsoil.
 

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Dave25 said:
you have to get the bottles that say "full synthetic" because just the " Mobil1 Synthetic" is actually a blend. The same thing happened with Royal Purple. I used it until I started noticing that it said "blend" on it. The full synthetic RP is very hard to find and costs like $13 a quart. All retailers for Royal Purple say that they dont carry the full synthetic because it doesnt sell.

I will think twice about using Mobil1 now. There are lots of other brands, maybe ill try Amsoil.
VERY interesting. I, as many others I am sure, also figured that Mobil 1 was 100% synthetic. They have some good marketing people there !
 

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you have to get the bottles that say "full synthetic" because just the " Mobil1 Synthetic" is actually a blend.
You mean that this claim is false?
 

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Solrak69 said:
I just talked to my brother about this. He's a 20+ year GM dealer mechanic and recommended it. He advised me that regardless of what the oil life indicator sensor says, to change over to synthetic @ 3K and 500 miles afterwards do another oil change to get ride of the initial oil 3K change which would have some original factory (conventional) oil mixed with the synthetic.
Everybody's got a theory. Nothing wrong with synthetic oil and most every brand has a good quality synthetic oil. I got a theory too - you would have to hunt for an oil that will not work. Myself, I go for what is easy to find and cost a fair price. Mobil 1 is just fine in my book - I use it in everything I drive. I'm not sure that I buy into the theory that the amount of the original oil left behind during the first oil change is enough to warrant changing the oil @ 500 miles but then again, I also used to believe Alice Cooper was Eddie Haskell on Leave it to Beaver....................I've been wrong a few times :crazy:
 

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There is no break in time on these engines anymore for oil. You can use syn from the start if you like.

Second the blend deal is not a great issue and is there mostly to you can use any oil safely if you need to add anything. Mobil 1 will take about anything you can throw at it.

GM and many major MFG recommend it in most performance engines and Turbo engine. My Ecotec Turbo has it recommended right on the cap due to the extremes in temps.

Do not expect to a major change in MPG if that is why you are doing it. It will help but with any oil it is small. The durability of the oil and less breakdown is the key for better or less wear.

Read here and get a unbiased opinion.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
 

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Any engine will benefit from syn oil, but does it need it - no - unless the engine is special in some way, and there will be a tag supporting that.
As far as I know Mobil1 is a full syn oil. Amsoil and Mobil1 were the first to offer syn oil to the general public back in the early 70's.

I only pay $5.50/qt for Amsoil. $13/qt is highway robbery. I only pay $8.50/qt for my Harley 20-50 mcy specific syn oil from Amsoil. Which is still way cheaper then most motorcycle oil.
 

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I am a Mobil 1 user for over 30 years and have had no issues with it.
 

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skiziks said:
You mean that this claim is false?
I was also aware that the American Version of Mobil 1 was not a true synthetic.
As compared to the European spec.
There was a thread on this on the oil forum -BITOG

Unless its changed lately.
 

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Mobil 1 has been showing high iron on UOA's for many brands of auto engines and many different oil filters.
What that means is anyone's guess; Mobil isn't saying.

DEXOS 1 is a BLEND, and it's ~40% synthetic, 60% conventional oil. You could do as well mixing your own oil blend, and you'd save money doing it. Just stick to a single brand of oil when doing that.

By Dexos being a 'blend' I mean to say that a blend satisfies the GM Dexos 1 specifications for oil. To that point, most all name brand 'BLENDS' meet the Dexos specifications.

Of course, synthetic oil surpasses those specs.

And yes, Direct Injection beats up on oil regardless of who made the engine. That's why GM has been revising it's OLM algorithm for the D.I. engines-for 2014, all GM engines are D.I. with the possible exception of the Corvette.

My 2¢
 

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This is straight off of their web site. It doesn't say a thing in regard to it being a "blend".

Mobil 1™ 5W-30 is an advanced full synthetic motor oil designed to keep your engine running like new by providing exceptional wear protection, cleaning power and overall performance. It meets the demanding ILSAC GF-5 performance standards, and is dexos1™ approved by General Motors.
 
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