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Get as much as you can at a place such as GM Parts Direct

You will probably come out better price wise.

The factory switch is the way to go, keep it simple, fuse your hot wires, use a relay, pick a wire that is only hot when the key is on.



You might visit the dealers parts dept for anything that will help like connectors and wire pig tails.

See link below for the factory switch.



https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2018/chevrolet/equinox/lt-trim/1-5l-l4-gas-engine/body-cat/cluster-and-switches-scat/?part_number=84192536


the factory switch is the way to go other than it’s a momentary switch not an off/on switch you’d have to make up some circuitry to make that trigger and KEEP ON a relay like an on/off switch would this is normally done by the back, but since the factory harness isn’t wired for the switch on an ls or lt, i doubt its possible to use the bcm

so appearance wise, yes it’s the way to go but not for functionality

if i could figure that out id have them on my car already but i refuse to drill holes and add an aftermarket switch... i just don’t prefer how that looks
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the factory switch is the way to go other than it’s a momentary switch not an off/on switch you’d have to make up some circuitry to make that trigger and KEEP ON a relay like an on/off switch would this is normally done by the back, but since the factory harness isn’t wired for the switch on an ls or lt, i doubt its possible to use the bcm

so appearance wise, yes it’s the way to go but not for functionality

if i could figure that out id have them on my car already but i refuse to drill holes and add an aftermarket switch... i just don’t prefer how that looks
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It can be done but it starts to get complicated.
See link to one possibility below.https://www.instructables.com/id/Use-a-Momentary-or-Tactile-Switch-as-a-Pushbutton-/
 

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For those who are considering adding the premier fog lights to the LS or LT and don't mind adding a non-factory switch, this is the one I used with my install. I placed the switch in the black panel below the light switch. I interupted the low beam trigger to the first relay. The switch has a blue LED, closely matching the instrument lighting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-Round-Rocker-Switch-12V-with-Blue-LED-light-dot-car-auto-rv-boat-toggle-SPST/372185206176?hash=item56a7f78da0:g:~30AAOSwEUVZZxKD&redirect=mobile
Howard
 

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So I havent completed this swap on my wife's 2018 LT, BUT, I believe I have all the components. The factory engine to body harness will have the Brown/Violet wire already in it. I was going to build my own harness and pin out this connector on the other side, but for $50 I got a factory GM harness that is plug and play with turn and fog connectors.

For inside the car I got a factory headlight switch with the fog button. I'll pin out the empty hole and run a wire to the BCM connector for the fog lights and (fingers crossed) voila. I believe you only need the BCM reprogrammed so the indicator like on the dash illuminates, but we'll find out.

Did something similar with my 2019 Silverado with the factory off road light button.
 

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I was going to build my own harness and pin out this connector on the other side, but for $50 I got a factory GM harness that is plug and play with turn and fog connectors.
:thumb:
 

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So I havent completed this swap on my wife's 2018 LT, BUT, I believe I have all the components. The factory engine to body harness will have the Brown/Violet wire already in it. I was going to build my own harness and pin out this connector on the other side, but for $50 I got a factory GM harness that is plug and play with turn and fog connectors.

For inside the car I got a factory headlight switch with the fog button. I'll pin out the empty hole and run a wire to the BCM connector for the fog lights and (fingers crossed) voila. I believe you only need the BCM reprogrammed so the indicator like on the dash illuminates, but we'll find out.

Did something similar with my 2019 Silverado with the factory off road light button.


on my cruze you had to have it flashed, hooked the whole kit up and it didn’t work till it was flashed. probably because it’s a momentary switch that triggers a relay in the bcm and not just a standard on /off switch. also to save you some work, then bumper harness with the plugs for the fog lights separates from the rest of the engine bay harness and for other people wanting to do it the way you are, the bumper harness can be had relatively cheaply online


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Wanted to share some info:

1. The factory harness that includes the fog light hookups has a different turn signal plug than the non-fog light harness. With fog is a black connector. WithOUT fog is gray. The black connector will NOT plug into the gray bulb socket. You can get the black bulb socket for your turn signal (ac Delco # LS309, GM 84152979) or swap the black plug off the new harness for the gray plug off the original.

2. The entire front bumper cover needs to come off to swap the harness. There are 3 "hidden" fasteners, 2 up under the headlight in a bracket that connects the bumper cover to the fender (T25 Torx). The other is behind the fender liner going down from the top into the same bracket (7mm). If you find the one behind the fender liner first it might make it easier to find the torx fasteners.

3. The fog light wire is in the vehicles main harness. It runs to the junction on the passenger side of the vehicle. Its pin 16 on the engine to body harness. The body harness connector needs the female terminal and wire added, then connected to the body to front fascia connector in pin #12.
 

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Update to my update. I ordered the other bulb socket for the turn signals. Turns out the eBay fog light housings I ordered use the gray holder, where the oem housings with the fog lights use the black socket. They are not only different plugs from the harness, but they are also a different layout of locking nubs that fit the socket to the housing... 😑
 

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FYI

If anyone is looking for the part numbers for the blacked out OEM Fog light/turn signal housings like off the midnight edition Nox

84779711 - left
84779712 - right


Just had surgery last week so havent been able to tap the wire to the BCM yet. Hopefully next weekend.
 

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Worked on this some more today. Got the new switch installed and the wire run to the BCM. I have 1 more wire to run but ran out of daylight. Last wire goes from the X5 BCM plug to the fuse block under the hood.

To try to make it look not rigged I wrapped the wire I ran in the same cloth tape as the factory looms to try to mask the fact that it isn't 100% factory.
 

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So everything's in. I didn't like the wire to the switch, then adding a second wire, so I remade the BCM leads. Ran both wires together then split off the wire for the fuse block at the switch and ran it through the firewall.

If you are not experienced or very comfortable taking apart your car this might not be for you, as the next part is frustrating and delicate. You'll have to remove the battery (at least I did for extra room) then remove the power leads from the fuse block, there are 2 Christmas tree clips on the left side holding wires on, as well as 2 on the bottom. Remove the power block on the left side of the fuse block, then go around and gently start popping the tabs that hold the 2 halves together to remove the top board from the lower housing.

10mm socket to release the x2 connector (one that is in the middle,opposite the other two)and pop the tabs to release it. Hardest part was getting my wire ran up through the grommet in the fire wall and into place through the rubber boot on the fuse block. Pin #20 will be the hole you are looking for. Pull the retainer out off the side of the housing, put in the pin and reassembly can commence.

Last step in this process is a trip to the dealer, alas they did not fire up upon testing.

The reason this took so long was the multiple orders for terminals and housings. When I identified the manufacturer of each connector I ordered male and female terminals as well as connector housings so I could do trial runs before attacking that particular step. Some of the retainers are tricky to remove and I didn't want my first attempt to potentially mess something up on the car, or have it parked waiting for parts AFTER I broke something.

If it all works after my trip to the dealer I'll post part numbers for all the connectors and terminals to do this yourself. It probably cost me 10x what I needed to spend, but that was mostly due to the extra pieces and the trial and error.

ONTO THE PICS!
 

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Just left dealer where the car was purchased from. I was pretty much told unless I had some kind of code that came with the genuine accessory kit they could not get the software to reprogram the body control module. So, I had a feeling something stupid like this was going to happen so I preemptively ordered a a GM MDI so I could just do it myself. Now when that gets here is another question lately with all the crazy by her stuff going on.
 

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I was told by the dealership that they would need a VCI number from GM to program the BCM and it was almost impossible to get one and if
they did get one Gm would charge sixty dollars just for the number.
 

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The service manager just blew me off. But I have my own methods......
Wow your quality of work and attention to detail is above reproach.

I'm still kicking around doing a fog install on my 2018 Encore.
I think I'll use the factory switch like in the 4th pic of your post #31.
It looks good and the fit and position is right, the LED when on is also nice.

The wire, fuse, and relay part I will do by hand using the factory harness from GM.
Your pics and part numbers for the connectors are what I needed.
I'll skip the BCM hassle and use the hard wire approach.
 

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The service manager just blew me off. But I have my own methods......
Wow your quality of work and attention to detail is above reproach.

I'm still kicking around doing a fog install on my 2018 Encore.
I think I'll use the factory switch like in the 4th pic of your post #31.
It looks good and the fit and position is right, the LED when on is also nice.

The wire, fuse, and relay part I will do by hand using the factory harness from GM.
Your pics and part numbers for the connectors are what I needed.
I'll skip the BCM hassle and use the hard wire approach.
If everything works out I might be able to give you the code to take to the dealer and have them flash it for you, that's the hang up with completing this. If you have a dealer willing to work with you you'll be fine.
 

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Finally wanted to update where I'm at with this project, and the answer is COMPLETE!
So . . what code ( or other things ) was needed to get a reflash done to make the fogs work?
 
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