Are the battery terminals clean ? If so, you may want to check some of the ground connections around the engine area.
Equinox Won't Start
My 2005 Equinox stalled while driving down the road. Tried to restart but the starter won't turn over.
The dash lights come on when the key is turned to the ignition. Then, when you turn the key to the start position, the dash lights go out and I hear the solenoid on the starter close for a second and then everything is quiet.
I checked any fuse related to the ignition and swapped out my starter relay with another one. I wanted to see if it was related to the Park/Neutral switch, so I tried putting it into gear just to see what happens when you try to start it. When you try this, the dash lights don't go off, other wise no difference.
I brought the starter and battery to the store and both tested out OK. The battery tested out at 606 CCA, 12.88V and the starter had a normal current draw.
I'm running out of ideas. The issue started while driving. Could it be the PCM.
The dash lights come on when the key is turned to the ignition. Then, when you turn the key to the start position, the dash lights go out and I hear the solenoid on the starter close for a second and then everything is quiet.
I checked any fuse related to the ignition and swapped out my starter relay with another one. I wanted to see if it was related to the Park/Neutral switch, so I tried putting it into gear just to see what happens when you try to start it. When you try this, the dash lights don't go off, other wise no difference.
I brought the starter and battery to the store and both tested out OK. The battery tested out at 606 CCA, 12.88V and the starter had a normal current draw.
I'm running out of ideas. The issue started while driving. Could it be the PCM.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Yes, the battery terminals have no corrosion. They look brand new.
I noticed that the battery voltage drops to about 7V when you try to start it.
I connected a second 'good' battery in parallel with my other one and the same thing occurs.
I also removed the alternator + wire just to make sure that wasn't causing some drain during starting.
I noticed that the battery voltage drops to about 7V when you try to start it.
I connected a second 'good' battery in parallel with my other one and the same thing occurs.
I also removed the alternator + wire just to make sure that wasn't causing some drain during starting.
Check the 10 amp fuse labeled BACKUP in the underhood fuse box. It is located next the the starter relay. If it's blown you need to also find the shorted wire.
This sounds like an alternator.
Dropping to 7 volts could be one of 2 indicators...a dead short...or a bad batterysbleier said:I noticed that the battery voltage drops to about 7V when you try to start it.
I connected a second 'good' battery in parallel with my other one and the same thing occurs.
I would NOT connect 2 in parallel...not going to be a "fair" indicator
Connect a known good battery and retry
Not saying it's the battery...but what you have done so far does not eliminate it
From what I've read so far...I'm leaning toward a bad battery regardless of who tested what and how
I will check the back-up fuse.
The starter was tested at the store with their fixture and it worked. I would assume the solenoid was part of the test.
I hear the solenoid operating (a big clunk) when you first turn the key to start, but that's about it.
If the battery voltage drops while trying to start, I would tend to think it's a battery issue. Or, in the process of starting, the battery sees a load that is much higher then expected.
I thought it might be a bad alternator so I disconnected the + wire to isolate it from the starting circuit. That didn't change anything.
The starter was tested at the store with their fixture and it worked. I would assume the solenoid was part of the test.
I hear the solenoid operating (a big clunk) when you first turn the key to start, but that's about it.
If the battery voltage drops while trying to start, I would tend to think it's a battery issue. Or, in the process of starting, the battery sees a load that is much higher then expected.
I thought it might be a bad alternator so I disconnected the + wire to isolate it from the starting circuit. That didn't change anything.
I didn't think an alternator came into play while starting the car. IMHOX11Fan said:This sounds like an alternator.
That fuse checked out as well as all the other ones I looked at.
2005? If this is the original battery then its probably at the end of its life.
I connected the battery from my truck which is new and has a higher CCA.
Same thing. No difference.
I think it safe to assume the battery isn't the issue.
It might be time to have it towed to the shop. I'm out of ideas.
Same thing. No difference.
I think it safe to assume the battery isn't the issue.
It might be time to have it towed to the shop. I'm out of ideas.
Ignition Switch?
not to be confused with the iginition lock cylinder the key goes into...but the switch which is usually located on the steering column further down from the lock cylinder.
I assume you actually mounted your truck battery into the Nox (?)
not to be confused with the iginition lock cylinder the key goes into...but the switch which is usually located on the steering column further down from the lock cylinder.
I assume you actually mounted your truck battery into the Nox (?)
Yes, I installed the truck battery into the vehicle. Same as the old one.
I'm not familiar with the ignition switch. Any way to see if it's working or not.
Would a bad switch cause the engine to stall while running? That was my initial issue.
I'm not familiar with the ignition switch. Any way to see if it's working or not.
Would a bad switch cause the engine to stall while running? That was my initial issue.
If you hadn't mentioned that the car stalled out while driving it, I would say - based on everything else you said - that it's either the battery or hung-up brushes in the starter. It usually takes a LONG time for a starter to fail (all my cars have covered a combined 600,000 miles and ALL still have their original factory starters installed), but when they DO start to fail, you hear the click and they start/not-start intermittently. Of course, this can also be a sign of a completely discharged battery!
So it appears it's NOT the battery in this case (and likely not the starter), but it's probably electrical-related. What if the electric fuel pump suddenly lost power while driving (short or blown fuse) and now won't prime? Maybe the car doesn't turn over if the pump is not priming? My Ford has a reset button in the cargo area that trips in an accident to cut off fuel delivery. Maybe such a thing exists on your Equinox and has tripped for some reason?
It's also possible you have more than one problem occurring at the same time and your starter IS hung up. Although I've never done this, I would probably try lightly tapping the starter body on all sides with a hammer to see if that releases the hung-up brushes inside. I once had a starter years ago on my very first car stop working, so I yanked it out and took it to a shop that "rebuilt" them. Whadaya know? - it worked fine on the bench. Just changing the orientation freed up the brushes inside.
So it appears it's NOT the battery in this case (and likely not the starter), but it's probably electrical-related. What if the electric fuel pump suddenly lost power while driving (short or blown fuse) and now won't prime? Maybe the car doesn't turn over if the pump is not priming? My Ford has a reset button in the cargo area that trips in an accident to cut off fuel delivery. Maybe such a thing exists on your Equinox and has tripped for some reason?
It's also possible you have more than one problem occurring at the same time and your starter IS hung up. Although I've never done this, I would probably try lightly tapping the starter body on all sides with a hammer to see if that releases the hung-up brushes inside. I once had a starter years ago on my very first car stop working, so I yanked it out and took it to a shop that "rebuilt" them. Whadaya know? - it worked fine on the bench. Just changing the orientation freed up the brushes inside.
First a story from a friend of mine...and yes there are other symptoms besides what is listed in the bulletins below...stalling/no crank no start/gauge displays going wacky etc
The WOW test he refers to is when the key is turned prior to trying to crank the engine the gauge needles and all idiot lights cycle...
Also the specifics for replacing the ignition switch varies model to model and year to year...
Finally keep in mind his "how to" involves a Montana NOT a Terrain or Nox...but the location in Chevys is fairly common on the steering column...usually 2002 and prior are located lower on the column and don't involve the Air Bag and 2003 and newer are located in conjunction with the lock cylinder and involve putting the Air Bag in "safe mode" first.[/color]
"By far the most common concerns written on ro's is..."my gauges (or gages...lol) go to zero and then come back up to normal," or my truck has no power when pulling away from a stop and my check is light is on. These are the most common concerns for us by far.
I just replaced a ignition switch on a Montana today for a no crank. so like everything elese there are exceptions to the rule.
Now to test.. this can be hard for the guy who has no info such as service manual, it requires checking the power flow from the ign switch using a wiring scmat, the most common is the trans in 2nd and the ses light on(cause the trans sets power loss related dtc's due to the ckt being open(no power) use a test light at the trans fuse, no power at both sides and assuming the wiring harness is ok(never had a harness cause this) you can bet the ign switch is bad. also i catch many intermitent concerns by starting the truck and just wiggling the key around and watching the gauges for drop out, or watching my test light light that i have connected to the trans fuse, if the test light goes out or the gauges drop out while i am wiggling the cylinder then i know the switch is bad. another way i test is turn the key on/off many times hard and fast while watching the gauges, if i know i had the key on and the gauges didn't come up then i know or if the "wow" test ( the bulb check) fails to perform its self test then its the switch. again the most popular concern is either no power from a stop or my ip is in op sometimes these are my normal procedures for ign switches and rarely fail for me
Replacing this can vary from year to year, first thing is to disconnect you battery(first move the seat all the way back cause your going to be under the dash if your seats are power) remove the steering wheel air bag, to do this look for two slots on back side of the wheel towards the ip, these are a spring bar that needs to be pryed to release the bag from the steering wheel, these can make you mental, take your time!! air bags cost a ton!!. then remove the elec. connects that connect the air bag, there is a safety clip that must be lifted up on the connector before you can unplug the connetor, then remove the nut that holds the steering wheel, you will need a steering wheel puller( i leave the nut on by 6-8 threads and firmly but gently rock the wheel back and forth, release and repeat, the nut is left on so you dont eat the wheel when it pops off), ok the bag and the wheel is off, remove the lower hush panel, remove the metal sheild that you see under the hush panel(4--10 mil nuts) then look at your lower strg col cover, some have torx screws to undo some don't. remove the tilt leaver, it pulls straight out remove the lower cover it is snapped to the upper and its a good pull to seperate them, then look up at the upper you will see one more little torx screw holding the upper on to the col assy, remove that screw. now you have the upper loose and the ign cyl. is in the way, look for a little hole on top of the housing...stick a pick in there and turn the ign cyl to the crank pos, once there depress the pin thats down in that hole and pull the cylinder out. right by that hole is a little white tab that has to come out, it has 3 wires going to it the release tab is kinda hard to see so be careful, now go under the dash to the big connector with the 10 gauge wire going to it, undo the 9/32 bolt in the center and pull it out. the 2 outter rows of wires will be staying in the truck its the big center one thats the ign switch harness (some years you will unplug the switch at the switch near the ign cyl, some years you unplug the switch at the big connector under the dash) either way you will see two little slots on each side, stick a pick in there and release each pin while pulling down, be careful the sir coil is near by. so now the switch is out. compare the two, look at the teeth on the old one, set the new one to match, install it and connect all elec connectors for the ign switch, the connect the bat and make sure the new switch is "timed" meaning the acc pos is the acc pos etc, reassembly is the reverse. it sounds hard but its not......so remove air bag, steering wheel, hush panel, metal sheild, lower col cover, undo upper, pick in hole, remove ign cyl. disconnect ign switch harness, remove swtich, time new switch and reass as req....thats all."
Now some bulletins from Chevy (PLEASE NOTE THE INCLUSION OF "2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks" which means those not specifically listed...[/color]
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2005-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E, 4L80-E or 4L85-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M33, MT1, MN8)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and add additional diagnostic information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002D (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
• The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
• The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E).
• The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E).
• The instrument cluster is inoperative.
Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.
Cause
The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission solenoid power supply circuit.
This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.
Correction
Important: If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections. ANY REPAIRS DUE TO AFTERMARKET INSTALLATION OF ACCESSORIES IS A NON-WARRANTABLE ITEM.
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the circuit fuse in the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. Refer to the appropriate SI Document for the transmission solenoid power supply circuit information.
If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens.
If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, test for continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch. If NO continuity is between the fuse and the ignition switch, repair the open in that circuit.
If you have continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch using the appropriate Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in SI.
Document ID# 1371241
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche - 2WD
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Insrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002C - (Aug 21, 2003)
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003 Cadillac ESV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Full-Size Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1997-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, Express, S-10
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe (New Style)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer RH Drive (Export)
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche, TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT
1997-1999 GMC Sierra, Suburban, Yukon (Old Style)
1997-2001 GMC Jimmy
1997-2003 GMC Savana, Sonoma
1999-2003 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL (New Style)
2002-2003 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL
1997-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E or 4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and to add additional models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002B (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
* The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
* The transmission is stuck in third gear.
* The instrument cluster is inoperative.
Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P1860 may be set.
Cause
The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of power to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.
Correction
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the appropriate fuse listed below.
[Edited out chart]
Ignition 0 For the C/K trucks. (2002~2006)
[End edit]
If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect circuit 1020 between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.
If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of power at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.
The WOW test he refers to is when the key is turned prior to trying to crank the engine the gauge needles and all idiot lights cycle...
Also the specifics for replacing the ignition switch varies model to model and year to year...
Finally keep in mind his "how to" involves a Montana NOT a Terrain or Nox...but the location in Chevys is fairly common on the steering column...usually 2002 and prior are located lower on the column and don't involve the Air Bag and 2003 and newer are located in conjunction with the lock cylinder and involve putting the Air Bag in "safe mode" first.[/color]
"By far the most common concerns written on ro's is..."my gauges (or gages...lol) go to zero and then come back up to normal," or my truck has no power when pulling away from a stop and my check is light is on. These are the most common concerns for us by far.
I just replaced a ignition switch on a Montana today for a no crank. so like everything elese there are exceptions to the rule.
Now to test.. this can be hard for the guy who has no info such as service manual, it requires checking the power flow from the ign switch using a wiring scmat, the most common is the trans in 2nd and the ses light on(cause the trans sets power loss related dtc's due to the ckt being open(no power) use a test light at the trans fuse, no power at both sides and assuming the wiring harness is ok(never had a harness cause this) you can bet the ign switch is bad. also i catch many intermitent concerns by starting the truck and just wiggling the key around and watching the gauges for drop out, or watching my test light light that i have connected to the trans fuse, if the test light goes out or the gauges drop out while i am wiggling the cylinder then i know the switch is bad. another way i test is turn the key on/off many times hard and fast while watching the gauges, if i know i had the key on and the gauges didn't come up then i know or if the "wow" test ( the bulb check) fails to perform its self test then its the switch. again the most popular concern is either no power from a stop or my ip is in op sometimes these are my normal procedures for ign switches and rarely fail for me
Replacing this can vary from year to year, first thing is to disconnect you battery(first move the seat all the way back cause your going to be under the dash if your seats are power) remove the steering wheel air bag, to do this look for two slots on back side of the wheel towards the ip, these are a spring bar that needs to be pryed to release the bag from the steering wheel, these can make you mental, take your time!! air bags cost a ton!!. then remove the elec. connects that connect the air bag, there is a safety clip that must be lifted up on the connector before you can unplug the connetor, then remove the nut that holds the steering wheel, you will need a steering wheel puller( i leave the nut on by 6-8 threads and firmly but gently rock the wheel back and forth, release and repeat, the nut is left on so you dont eat the wheel when it pops off), ok the bag and the wheel is off, remove the lower hush panel, remove the metal sheild that you see under the hush panel(4--10 mil nuts) then look at your lower strg col cover, some have torx screws to undo some don't. remove the tilt leaver, it pulls straight out remove the lower cover it is snapped to the upper and its a good pull to seperate them, then look up at the upper you will see one more little torx screw holding the upper on to the col assy, remove that screw. now you have the upper loose and the ign cyl. is in the way, look for a little hole on top of the housing...stick a pick in there and turn the ign cyl to the crank pos, once there depress the pin thats down in that hole and pull the cylinder out. right by that hole is a little white tab that has to come out, it has 3 wires going to it the release tab is kinda hard to see so be careful, now go under the dash to the big connector with the 10 gauge wire going to it, undo the 9/32 bolt in the center and pull it out. the 2 outter rows of wires will be staying in the truck its the big center one thats the ign switch harness (some years you will unplug the switch at the switch near the ign cyl, some years you unplug the switch at the big connector under the dash) either way you will see two little slots on each side, stick a pick in there and release each pin while pulling down, be careful the sir coil is near by. so now the switch is out. compare the two, look at the teeth on the old one, set the new one to match, install it and connect all elec connectors for the ign switch, the connect the bat and make sure the new switch is "timed" meaning the acc pos is the acc pos etc, reassembly is the reverse. it sounds hard but its not......so remove air bag, steering wheel, hush panel, metal sheild, lower col cover, undo upper, pick in hole, remove ign cyl. disconnect ign switch harness, remove swtich, time new switch and reass as req....thats all."
Now some bulletins from Chevy (PLEASE NOTE THE INCLUSION OF "2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks" which means those not specifically listed...[/color]
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2005-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E, 4L80-E or 4L85-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M33, MT1, MN8)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and add additional diagnostic information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002D (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
• The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
• The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E).
• The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E).
• The instrument cluster is inoperative.
Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.
Cause
The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission solenoid power supply circuit.
This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.
Correction
Important: If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections. ANY REPAIRS DUE TO AFTERMARKET INSTALLATION OF ACCESSORIES IS A NON-WARRANTABLE ITEM.
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the circuit fuse in the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. Refer to the appropriate SI Document for the transmission solenoid power supply circuit information.
If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens.
If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, test for continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch. If NO continuity is between the fuse and the ignition switch, repair the open in that circuit.
If you have continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch using the appropriate Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in SI.
Document ID# 1371241
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche - 2WD
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Insrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002C - (Aug 21, 2003)
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003 Cadillac ESV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Full-Size Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1997-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, Express, S-10
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe (New Style)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer RH Drive (Export)
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche, TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT
1997-1999 GMC Sierra, Suburban, Yukon (Old Style)
1997-2001 GMC Jimmy
1997-2003 GMC Savana, Sonoma
1999-2003 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL (New Style)
2002-2003 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL
1997-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E or 4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and to add additional models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002B (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
* The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
* The transmission is stuck in third gear.
* The instrument cluster is inoperative.
Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P1860 may be set.
Cause
The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of power to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.
Correction
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the appropriate fuse listed below.
[Edited out chart]
Ignition 0 For the C/K trucks. (2002~2006)
[End edit]
If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect circuit 1020 between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.
If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of power at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.
Starter nose gears hanging up on the flywheel are much more common than "hung brushes"Colt Hero said:If you hadn't mentioned that the car stalled out while driving it, I would say...
Lack of fuel will not cause...no crank...even if related to a fuel cutoff safety switch as found on Fords...engine will crank but not start...
A failed fuel pump will not prevent cranking of the engine
Thanks to everyone that tried to help me out with this one.
The verdict is in: Just received word from the dealer that the engine seized.
How can that happen?? I had 147K miles, oil level was fine, I change it every 3 months. I started using the high mileage oil after 75K.
The car was running great up to that point.
With all the other things I have read in this forum on the Equinox, I'm not sure I want to spend the 2-3K on a new motor.
I guess the center-line shaft disconnected also and needs to be replaced. Not sure if that occurred after it seized or before.
I have ABS issues as well. The ABS activates prematurely while stopping, even slow speeds.
The verdict is in: Just received word from the dealer that the engine seized.
How can that happen?? I had 147K miles, oil level was fine, I change it every 3 months. I started using the high mileage oil after 75K.
The car was running great up to that point.
With all the other things I have read in this forum on the Equinox, I'm not sure I want to spend the 2-3K on a new motor.
I guess the center-line shaft disconnected also and needs to be replaced. Not sure if that occurred after it seized or before.
I have ABS issues as well. The ABS activates prematurely while stopping, even slow speeds.
wow, sorry to hear about your problems...sbleier said:Thanks to everyone that tried to help me out with this one.
The verdict is in: Just received word from the dealer that the engine seized.
How can that happen?? I had 147K miles, oil level was fine, I change it every 3 months. I started using the high mileage oil after 75K.
The car was running great up to that point.
With all the other things I have read in this forum on the Equinox, I'm not sure I want to spend the 2-3K on a new motor.
I guess the center-line shaft disconnected also and needs to be replaced. Not sure if that occurred after it seized or before.
I have ABS issues as well. The ABS activates prematurely while stopping, even slow speeds.
What viscosity?sbleier said:How can that happen?? I had 147K miles, oil level was fine, I change it every 3 months. I started using the high mileage oil after 75K.
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