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I had a small coolant leak on a Cadillac Northstar that was a gasket. Cost to dissemble front of car to replace was $900. My Cadillac dealer suggested Bars Leak which fixed it for under $2.00. Maybe some mechanics who never used it would rather charge customer $900. labor but I liked the cheap fix which lasted as long as I owned the car.
 

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Barrs leak is not good stuff to just throw in. In an emergency yes to get you home.. same as fix a flat.
Barry causes all types of problems. It cloggs little passages, radiators, in the heads, and can clogg thermostats and also the biggie water pumps. So as I posted somewhere else I will say again.. do not use it unless you have to. It is a pain in the ass when someone brings in a car and they put it in. And instead of bringing it in prior to do a pressure or leak down test. I speak all of this from years of experience working on cars(18+).
 

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Op is the vehicle running properly? If so get a second opinion. If they say the same thing unload the vehicle at a dealership as a trade in.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Car is running fine. Nobody got back to me on Friday like they were supposed to, so I called CAC today. They said they were playing phone tag with the dealer and should get back to me tomorrow or Wednesday. I never saw the oil in the coolant myself. i'll check the reservoir and see if it's foamy as one of you guys suggested. Thanks again!
 

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Yep - look at the coolant yourself. If it's not foamy, and the engine's running fine... then don't get duped.
Feel free to post pictures if you're not sure what the coolant should look like. I'm sure lots of us in here have seen it before. (For me, a blown head gasket in a Jeep led to milky coolant.)
 

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JDubs said:
...

Receipt reads as follows:

Oil in overflow
A10 10.00
Pressure tested cooling system. Performed cyl leak down test oil leaking from engine internally. Hoses contaminated with oil. Clean out reservoir and cooling system. Customer made aware and making decision. Total parts 0.00. Total labor and parts 80.00.

They're basing the cracked block diagnosis on a conversation the Service Tech had with the Technical Assistance Center. The service writer told me that TAC told them the only way there could be oil in the coolant is from a cracked block. So that was me probably hearing it third hand.
I would be highly skeptical of a dealership that told me they had done a cylinder leak down test, and based on that determined that oil was leaking internally. Doing a leak down test to check for oil in the coolant just doesn't sound right to me. About 99% of the cracks I've seen in a cylinder wall are toward the top of the cylinder where combustion takes place. If you had a crack in that area your engine would be running hotter than normal due to combustion gases under pressure getting into the coolant. There is no oil under pressure in the cylinders that would be forced through a crack in the cylinder into the coolant. If anything the coolant under pressure would be getting into the cylinder and show up as steam in the exhaust. The coolant under about 13 psi would be trying to come into the cylinder (on the exhaust stroke when there is no pressure in the cylinder) if there was a crack in the cylinder.

If you are going to have to pay out of your pocket, do yourself a favor and get a second opinion from another mechanic. Don't tell him up front what the other mechanic told you. Let him check your vehicle out and form his own conclusions as to what might be wrong with your engine... if anything.
 

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Looks like this is another dead end thread. What a waste of time. :banghead:
 

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Jdubs answered like 3-4 posts up.. how is it a dead thread? Maybe he is waiting a week or two as suggested on page one... Equinox TN.... a little to quick to pull the trigger on this one..
 

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JDubs said:
Car is running fine. Nobody got back to me on Friday like they were supposed to, so I called CAC today. They said they were playing phone tag with the dealer and should get back to me tomorrow or Wednesday. I never saw the oil in the coolant myself. i'll check the reservoir and see if it's foamy as one of you guys suggested. Thanks again!

Davek said:
Jdubs answered like 3-4 posts up.. how is it a dead thread? Maybe he is waiting a week or two as suggested on page one... Equinox TN.... a little to quick to pull the trigger on this one..
Dave, if it takes 5-6 days to check a reservoir to see if it has foamy oil in it I consider it a dead thread.
 

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EquinoxTN..nothing is instant.. not even coffe or rice.. it may take a week or two to see an issue. Or can you please tell us if the block was indeed cracked how long froth is suppose to take to get in the reservoir?
 

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Coolant with oil in it would have foam in the top of the radiator within a few minutes. It would take some time to get into the reservoir tank but not several days.

If there is oil in the radiator or reservoir tank there will be no doubt about it. Below is what 1/2 teaspoon of oil looks like in 6 oz of water that has been shook vigorously for 1 minute and then allowed to settle for 3 minutes. If it was mixed with antifreeze the color might be different but the foaming would be the same. If oil is in the coolant, that oily, foamy, film is going to be there until it's washed out.
 

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Well nice bottle test.. however I would highly disagree with you. I indeed have seen first hand cracked blocks. It did take a week or two to show some oil in the coolant. Now if a Crack was large enough I would say you would be correct. Or even a head gasket would show faster. But as the OP stated the dealer claimed the block was cracked. So without a visual of thee actual Crack there is no given time line as to even IF the froth comes back like the dealer said was there on initial. So again maybe in another week I will agree with you as this thread to be dead if no other word is heard from the OP. but in some cases things just don't happen over night or in 3-4 days. Take for instance the guy Bryan with the P0014 code.. it took him about 8 days to respond back on the issue after he took it in.. then 2 more weeks after another issue.. so after let's say 14days... then call it done...maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Sorry guys that it took me a few days to give you an update. Have pretty much not gotten anywhere with the CAC. I did, however, meet with a factory rep at the dealership yesterday. When he got there, the service writeup guy put his finger in the coolant reservoir and it came out black and covered with oil. Keep in mind 2 weeks ago, they changed my oil and cleaned out the reservoir. The oil level was not indicating it was low, so perhaps there was only a thin layer of oil on the surface of the coolant. It did not appear to be foamy either. Looks like they're going to tear down the engine a bit to see if this is in any way related to the piston/ring job that was done last March or April. That process begins tomorrow. I'm hoping GM comes to the party on this one.
 

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JDubs.. thanks for the report back.. sorry it has the issue. Hopefully it will be resolved in a timely manner for you. When you have a resolve as you have please post back. THANK YOU!
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm waiting to hear back from GMC CAC. They said they'd get back to me tomorrow.

Receipt reads as follows:

Oil in overflow
A10 10.00
Pressure tested cooling system. Performed cyl leak down test oil leaking from engine internally. Hoses contaminated with oil. Clean out reservoir and cooling system. Customer made aware and making decision. Total parts 0.00. Total labor and parts 80.00.

They're basing the cracked block diagnosis on a conversation the Service Tech had with the Technical Assistance Center. The service writer told me that TAC told them the only way there could be oil in the coolant is from a cracked block. So that was me probably hearing it third hand.
Hello everyone, can someone direct me to where the cooling system is located. I have the same issue and want to pressure test
 
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