Just wondering what brand and type of 5w30 will you use for your 2.4l ecotec. Calls for GM 6094M spec. I'm thinking either mobile 1 truck & suv 5w30 or pennzoil platinum or maybe even a blend.. Attached are the approved GM engine oils
Engine oil brand/type will you use for 2.4L
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I'll use whatever the dealership puts in it with some spare [whatever brand] 5w30 in the backt in case of an emergency. I couldn't really care what the dealership or lube shop uses. I've seen people obsess over brand of oil and whether or not to pay a premium to use synthetic. Providing your changing your oil regularly, it wont matter much in the long run. The engine itself should go for 200-300 miles before giving even a hint of issues anyway, none of which end up relating to oil.
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Amsoil
A properly broken-in engine and an oil change after 50K is going to be far more important than anything relating to oil after the break-in period. Every mechanic I talk to (who actually take apart engines on a regular basis) all mention a proper break in is far more important than brand of oil.
Speaking of breaking in engines, this is pretty much the one where every mechanic I know mentions the manufacturers recommendations are wrong (going easy on it). The only reason why you're told to go easy on it is for liability reasons (they dont want you taking a new car into the road and bagging on it). Going easy on your engine for the first couple thousand miles is one of the worst things you can do for engine break-in. Long story short, the first 50-100K's is the most important, and you need to run the engine through it's entire rev-range. Warm up the engine completely, and then take it onto a road or highway in 2nd or 3rd gear, and slowly and methodically run it through it's entire range with roll-ons.
I also ride sportbikes and I've seen the effects of a poorly broken in engine first hand. Bikes that are broken in on a Dyno or Track (read: properly) always end up making more HP (albeit single digits, not huge numbers here). I personally didn't believe this until I had it done myself on the last bike I purchased, and my friend who purchased the exact same bike didn't, and it showed on the dyno. Take it for what you will, but this is coming from mechanics who work and tune racebikes for professional racing teams. Mention "going easy" on an engine for the first couple thousand miles and they laugh.
Long story short, break-in and other things are far more important than oil brand.
More info here:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Speaking of breaking in engines, this is pretty much the one where every mechanic I know mentions the manufacturers recommendations are wrong (going easy on it). The only reason why you're told to go easy on it is for liability reasons (they dont want you taking a new car into the road and bagging on it). Going easy on your engine for the first couple thousand miles is one of the worst things you can do for engine break-in. Long story short, the first 50-100K's is the most important, and you need to run the engine through it's entire rev-range. Warm up the engine completely, and then take it onto a road or highway in 2nd or 3rd gear, and slowly and methodically run it through it's entire range with roll-ons.
I also ride sportbikes and I've seen the effects of a poorly broken in engine first hand. Bikes that are broken in on a Dyno or Track (read: properly) always end up making more HP (albeit single digits, not huge numbers here). I personally didn't believe this until I had it done myself on the last bike I purchased, and my friend who purchased the exact same bike didn't, and it showed on the dyno. Take it for what you will, but this is coming from mechanics who work and tune racebikes for professional racing teams. Mention "going easy" on an engine for the first couple thousand miles and they laugh.
Long story short, break-in and other things are far more important than oil brand.
More info here:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I thought everyone agreed some 10-15 years ago that "break in " periods were obsolete?scottyyyc said:
At least that's the way I drive them!
I've seen too many gummed, fouled and carboned up engines from peeps "pampering" their new vehicles over the years.
I must agree, scottyyyc, warm it up to operating temp and give 'er heck, albeit smoothly.
Do it while it's under warranty.
Shell Rotella T - full synth - 5W/40
It is a diesel oil and has more zinc in it than most car oils. Zinc is real important - for friction primarily.
Plus, if you are going to do your own oil changes, it is pretty inexpensive @ Wally World in gallon containers.
I'm also a believer in the MotoTune theory of engine break-in.
It is a diesel oil and has more zinc in it than most car oils. Zinc is real important - for friction primarily.
Plus, if you are going to do your own oil changes, it is pretty inexpensive @ Wally World in gallon containers.
I'm also a believer in the MotoTune theory of engine break-in.
That happens with normal oil too.SnowItch said:
Test after test have been done by people OTHER THAN the oil companies, and they all show that changing it is the most important thing. What oil you use is not important at all from those tests. Not in any test done on any engine part, has any oil ever failed if used correctly. None. All the so-called "oil related failures" were from not following instructions, or were pure urban myths.
You can find hundreds of so called "oil tests" on the internet. All of them are done for or by the companies trying to sell over-priced oils. So, don't rely on anything you read on the Internet about Oils, other than trusted 3rd party sources. My sources were the US Air Force studies, a study done on N.Y. City taxi cabs done 20 years go, and other family members in the oil industry. None of these sources say that the origin or make of the oil (real or syn) has any real impact on any car driven on the road today. Just use the right oil per the car maker, and change it when needed. You won't see any difference before the time the car rots and falls apart.
Personally I use a 50/50 blend. Mainly to gain the added miles before changes. I've calculated out that following the DIC computers the 50/50 blend gives me the best bang for my buck when changed at usually around 25% oil life remaining.
I became an Amsoil dealer only to get the discount price because I use a lot of oil. I don't resell it. Except at my cost to my HOG chapter members. I don't call it a pyramid scheme because nobody's getting rich off me except me.
Syn oil is cheaper in the long run because you don't change it as ofter which means less plastic in land fills, less time changing your oil(I do my own changes)...havn't changed the Terrains yet since I just got it. Also less filters. I have to laugh at those that say syn is more expensive...because it's not, you are doubling or tripling the change interval. So yes it's expensive to buy initially, but in long run it's a better buy....and it helps keep the oil a little cooler, which is a good thing since heat is oils worst enemy.
You don't need to buy Amsoil.....I'm not saying you do. ANY quality syn oil will be head and shoulders above dino oil. If you change dino oil every 3k miles or 3 months you are fine. I just like to extend the time intervals that I have to crawl under the car to change oil. And it's less money that Americas enemies will get.
Syn oil is cheaper in the long run because you don't change it as ofter which means less plastic in land fills, less time changing your oil(I do my own changes)...havn't changed the Terrains yet since I just got it. Also less filters. I have to laugh at those that say syn is more expensive...because it's not, you are doubling or tripling the change interval. So yes it's expensive to buy initially, but in long run it's a better buy....and it helps keep the oil a little cooler, which is a good thing since heat is oils worst enemy.
You don't need to buy Amsoil.....I'm not saying you do. ANY quality syn oil will be head and shoulders above dino oil. If you change dino oil every 3k miles or 3 months you are fine. I just like to extend the time intervals that I have to crawl under the car to change oil. And it's less money that Americas enemies will get.
One thing you have to remember also is that this is a new type of vehicle and some places probably won't carry the filters for it outside the dealership. My last car was a dodge Caliber, and I bought it in its first production year being in the Military I got stationed nowhere near a GMC dealer and no one carried the Filter for the car, I had to order it on the internet and take it to a Goodyear to get it changed.
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I always get enhanced performance after a good carwash and wax. ;D ;DSnowItch said:
Don't rule out that engines in general all are different. You are missing the variable of changing to normal Dino oil in this engine which may have given the same result.SnowItch said:
The last V8 truck I owned always performed better immediately after an oil change, no matter what oil was used. So that to me seems to remove validity in your findings. Sorry.
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So would you use GET on your Terrain?SnowItch said:
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Ive been following them for a while and deciding if 1) I want to use it in my Terrain, and 2) Invest in the company. I still have to do my first oil change. I got the "coupon" from the dealer over the weekend and a telemarketer call to schedule my first service. I normally change the oil myself too so Im just reading up now on what to expect.SnowItch said:
Whatever brand or type of oil you buy, change it at the mfg's recommended interval and you can't go wrong. Oil change interval is more important then the oil itself(with very few exceptions).
SnowItch, seeing how a lot of people complain about the price of syn oil, how much does this GET cost and how often do you have to change it. Do you still have to dispose of it in the normal way? Is it only available from Amazon or do stores sell it?
I suppose I could look up their website, do they have one?
Thanks
SnowItch, seeing how a lot of people complain about the price of syn oil, how much does this GET cost and how often do you have to change it. Do you still have to dispose of it in the normal way? Is it only available from Amazon or do stores sell it?
I suppose I could look up their website, do they have one?
Thanks
www.bobistheoilguy.com
Loads of information on the performance of oils and just oil's in general.
I plan on running Penzoil Platinum or Ultra due to the additive package (hgih in cleaning components)
On the "power from oil changes" ......You can gain power from using different oils. But its certainly not just in the "engine oil"...You need to replace all fluids (tranny comes to mind as a big one for us...but I personally wouldnt mess with it)....That is the difference between "crank" HP which is what our engines are rated at on an engine dyno (264hp on engine dyno) vs wheel hp (from a chassis dyno). Typically its a 15-20% parasitic loss, that loss is due to on friction...If you element some of that loss by reducing the friction, you will gain numbers on your "wheel hp" which in term is a HP gain.
Loads of information on the performance of oils and just oil's in general.
I plan on running Penzoil Platinum or Ultra due to the additive package (hgih in cleaning components)
On the "power from oil changes" ......You can gain power from using different oils. But its certainly not just in the "engine oil"...You need to replace all fluids (tranny comes to mind as a big one for us...but I personally wouldnt mess with it)....That is the difference between "crank" HP which is what our engines are rated at on an engine dyno (264hp on engine dyno) vs wheel hp (from a chassis dyno). Typically its a 15-20% parasitic loss, that loss is due to on friction...If you element some of that loss by reducing the friction, you will gain numbers on your "wheel hp" which in term is a HP gain.
All my syn oil is recycled so I am not hurting the environment either. I reuse the plastic containers if the oil reclaimers don't want them. By using syn by the gallon instead of quarts, I am reducing the amount of plastic containers I put into landfills.
One gallon of Amsoil syn costs me about $21 x 2 = $42 per year And 2 filters @ $7 = $14 so for a full year it only costs me $56 for top line synthetic oil.
One gallon of Amsoil syn costs me about $21 x 2 = $42 per year And 2 filters @ $7 = $14 so for a full year it only costs me $56 for top line synthetic oil.
Was at the local GM dealer to pick up a part for my Vibe and noticed a "Big" promotion for oil changes. $49.95 for synthetic! That roughly $10 a quart X 4 and $10 for a filter. Our local retailer (Meijer) runs Mobile 1 regularly for $19.95 a gallon. Using available discounts and shopping wisely, I can get it for $3.00 a quart out the door. A filter at $6-$7 and Im on the road for una quick $30der $20 so I saved a quick $30 and I know the drain plug is in tightly!
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