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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have had my 2011 SRX for 4 weeks and the engine light (or, more accurately according to the manual, the "On-Board Diagostics" indicator) came on and stayed on. I had gotten gas that morning and checked to make sure the gas cap was closed properly - it was. I've never had a GM vehicle so I am coming to really appreciate On-star. I was on a trip and would have otherwise been concerned about the engine light being on. But I pressed the blue button and the On-star person ran a diagnostics for me and said there were no major issues. And that I can bring it into service at my convenience. So On-star gives me peace of mind. But what doesn't give me peace of mind is that I have to bring my car in for servfice less than one month after driving it off the lot. Sort of "good news/bad news" I guess.

What's interesting is that while the engine light is on the remote start feature is disabled. That is what really bothered me since I have come to really like that feature in the short time I have had the car.

Oh well. Just sharing and wondering if anyone else has had this experience. I'm hoping this is not going to be a once a month expeience for me!!!!
 

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Remote Start being disabled- is a safety measure- if the Check Engine light is on.
Cruise Control may be off too.
 

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Since the most common cause of the "check engine" light in newer GM cars is the gas cap and you had just gotten gas before it came on....I would suspect something to do with that even though you checked it for tightness already. I would remove the gas cap and then put it back on until it clicks once and see if that makes it go away.
 

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The car runs a check on the gas tank every x number of cycles.
It does not run a check every time.

I dont know what the current parameters are... but Ive read that it can be every x number of COLD engine starts- or every x number of engine starts-- where the temp is below x degrees.

the point is- that sometimes- if it is the gas cap- it will go away after a few engine restarts. as long as the parameters are met..
so if it doesnt go away the 1st time-- dont despair.

The other option is to get an OBD port scanner.. to read and clear you own codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. Regarding the gas cap, I agree, my intuition screamed that it had something to do with me getting gas that morning. I did remove the cap and close it a few times during the next 24 hours but the light stayed on. Also, regarding the need to have an x number of cold starts before it reads the gas tank again, that's intetersting. Didn't know that. If I estimate I probably had a dozen or so cold starts between the time the light came on and yesterday morning. Still the light stayed on.

But here's an update: I did take it in for service yesterday. They called me late in the day and said it looked like a bad thermostat. They needed to keep it over night to run some further diagnostics and would know for sure today. So we'll see what happens.
 

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rbarrios said:
The other option is to get an OBD port scanner.. to read and clear you own codes.
Do not do this option You can scan to see what the code is but do not clear the code. I was told if you clear the code and something goes bad, by clearing it it will void your warranty and your SOL. I suggest for anybody else to take it to the dealership let them clear it and fix the problem.
 

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lucky19 said:
Do not do this option You can scan to see what the code is but do not clear the code. I was told if you clear the code and something goes bad, by clearing it it will void your warranty and your SOL. I suggest for anybody else to take it to the dealership let them clear it and fix the problem.
I'd tend to agree with that.
That's what the warranty is for.
After the warranty expires, then anything goes LOL!
 

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yeah-- sorry- should have elaborated more on clearing the codes.
If youre under warranty- scan and leave the code.
as when the code is set- it also stores data of what was going on when it set the code.

so yes- read code- but dont clear if you have a new car.

The OBDII software I have on my laptop can capture the data that was set with the light.
Ive cleared a few check engine lights on our cars- a 2008 Lucernce- was the gas cap- as well as our 07 Impala.
For those I went ahead and cleared the light.
Ive also cleared the light on my 03 Trailblazer- for a gas cap- and when my Thermostat failed at 111,000.


By the way--- my understanding is that for the Thermostat code to be set (should still be P0128)--- the computer needs to see multiple occasions of the engine not getting up to operating temp.

it usually detects a case- and sets a pending code. if it encounters the situation several times- it will then set the code.
Its usually something like--- engine needs to be at xxx degrees by x miles driven....

You may also notice that your engine seems to idle at higher RPM's for longer times in the AM--- different trans shift points- longer time to get warm air from the vents... and you seeing you needle taking longer to get up to normal temp....

Since I have the OBD scanner--- I will occasionally go out to the cars and scan for PENDING codes.
So far I have not found any codes that are pending... in our 03 Trailblazer, 07 Impala, 08 Lucenrne, or 2010 Traverse.
 

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by the way- the OBD laptop software is also great for getting actual data.
Maybe someone here can post similar- with MPG on the I4.
on the traverse, acadia, enclave, outlook forums- well get new members who join to complain about how theyre only getting XX miles per gallon. I will post that I get anywhere from 19 to 30 MPG with different scenarios- but that my weekly city/hwy driving will usually get me 19-21 MPG.
they will claim they drive very carefully etc etc.
I will then post the following... drive in such a way to get your trans to shift at these shiftpoints--- then post your MPG's-- what they perceive as EASY driving- is actually driving where theyre hitting 3000 to 3500 in 1st and 2nd. I dont even hit 3500 merging on the freeway.
this is an actual data plot of me driving in the city/residential. low shift points. 2010 Traverse. with the 6 speed trans.
the shift points are the peaks- with the drop offs.

 

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yea thermo codes have to be repeat offenders of coolant issues...

not to mention fairly easy to diagnose without a code reader....

(just changed my this past weekend)
 

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the way I also 'tested' my failed thermostat - and what I recommended to other Trailblazer owners was to get up to operating temp on street.
get on the highway at about 55 mph- highest gear- lowest rpms- max air flow- and the needle drops.
You can also turn on the heater- and temps will drop a little more.
get off the freeway- and the needle goes back up
 

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rbarrios said:
the way I also 'tested' my failed thermostat - and what I recommended to other Trailblazer owners was to get up to operating temp on street.
get on the highway at about 55 mph- highest gear- lowest rpms- max air flow- and the needle drops.
You can also turn on the heater- and temps will drop a little more.
get off the freeway- and the needle goes back up
Excell info! You guys are a wealth of knowledge. Very interesting data. Love the common sense approach to diagnosing by temp Gage ,shifts etc. My dad did it that way years ago. Observe, listen, think it out. Few computers then. LOL

Yes, MPG is so subjective. You're right that "easy" driving to some folks (my son) ain't easy driving to me :) I got about 25MPG highway, on my Enclave @62 MPH, Cruise ON.

MM
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wanted to do a quick update. I started this thread on 12/28 when my OBD light was on and I was perplexed. I had gotten gas that morning and assumed it had something to do with the gas cap. The dealer ultimately replaced the thermostat and I hadn't had any problems since. Until yesterday. The OBD light came on again and the air conditioner wouldn't work (95 degrees out!). Something hit me. The first time this happened to me in December, I not only got gas that morning but I ran it through a car wash. I got the car washed yesterday as well (and didn't get gas) and the OBD light goes on. Probably not a coincidence. But, who knows? I brought it in this morning to the dealer and told them about this. We'll see what they say.

I don't want to feel gun shy about getting my car washed in the future..........
 

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let us know what the code is...
you thinking water getting on some sensor? maybe water getting past the hood seal and landing on engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not sure. I'll let you know what they say. But I just consulted my "My Cadillac" app for the owner's manual verbiage for the engine light. It does say "make sure the electrical system is not wet. The system could be wet if the vehicle is driven through a deep puddle of water". Does a car wash count as a "deep puddle of water"? :-\
 

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Don7019 said:
Wanted to do a quick update. I started this thread on 12/28 when my OBD light was on and I was perplexed. I had gotten gas that morning and assumed it had something to do with the gas cap. The dealer ultimately replaced the thermostat and I hadn't had any problems since. Until yesterday. The OBD light came on again and the air conditioner wouldn't work (95 degrees out!). Something hit me. The first time this happened to me in December, I not only got gas that morning but I ran it through a car wash. I got the car washed yesterday as well (and didn't get gas) and the OBD light goes on. Probably not a coincidence. But, who knows? I brought it in this morning to the dealer and told them about this. We'll see what they say.

I don't want to feel gun shy about getting my car washed in the future..........
Please keep us posted. I am interested to hear the diagnosis. Thank you in advance.

Tricia, GM Customer Service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, I will. I called to get a status and they are perplexed. The service rep I talked to said that there were 3 guys around my car at that moment scrathing their heads trying figure it out. They are going to keep it over night to run some more diagnostics. I'll let you know the outcome. (Fortunatley they gave me a nice new sleek STS as a loaner)
 

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well it could be if the car wash shoots pressurized water into an area with electrical connections.
Remember- most of the connections are water resistant.. not water proof--- especially if the water is being shot at high pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just called the dealer and they still have not figured it out. They asked for the exact timing of events. That is, Car wash at noon, drove fine for the afternoon but engine light went on and air conditioner shut off while driving around 6:00 PM that day. Not sure how that will help but I think they are grasping for any info they can use. Oh well. We'll see what happens.
 
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