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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! First post here and hoping for some help diagnosing an electrical issue. I did a search but no luck. This is for a friends car (2010 Cadillac SRX) and is a weird one. First the retained accessory power for the radio. When the engine is turned off and drivers door is opened the radio continues to play. Door ajar switch?? Secondly the drivers window won't go up or down so I removed the motor and the window and regulator moved nicely up and down without the motor so I replaced the motor. Same problem. The motor acts as if it's binding and won't move the window. I tried the other windows and they work fine as long as the dome light switch is in the off position but drivers window is a no go. If I put the dome light switch in the auto position to activate the dome light when the doors open none of the windows work. I don't have a service manual for this car so hoping someone else has had a similar issue and solved it.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

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I have a 2014 Equinox LTZ that might be similar enough to give you some ideas.
Lets start with the 3 position dome light switch.

The two wires from the back of the switch go to the BCM, the third is ground.
A common problem here would be the BCM will have 8 fuses, all 8 need to be checked.
You can get a fuse diagram in your owners manual or online.
Let me know if you can't find one
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a 2014 Equinox LTZ that might be similar enough to give you some ideas.
Lets start with the 3 position dome light switch.

The two wires from the back of the switch go to the BCM, the third is ground.
A common problem here would be the BCM will have 8 fuses, all 8 need to be checked.
You can get a fuse diagram in your owners manual or online.
Let me know if you can't find one
rednox301
Thanks very much for the lead! I was hoping for just this kind of information before I start tearing into it. I'll post an update in a few days when I get a chance to get at it. I have a fuse diagram, thanks.
Jim
 

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I'll send you the wire colors and pin location to see how close yours and mine are.
I have the 2014 Equinox GM Repair Manual, I'll try get to it tomorrow.
You still have a RAP relay problem, maybe the fuses will help with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks very much for the help! It's appreciated! I won't get a chance to do anything with this for a few days but I'll post my findings.
Jim
 

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Here is the pin and function for the Dome Lamp Switch.

1 Black Ground
2 Purple Interior Lamp Defeat Switch Signal
3 White Courtesy Lamp Switch Signal
4 Yellow LED Backlight Dimming Control

Back of Switch
Pin #1 Black Wire to Ground
Pin #2 Purple Wire to Connector X7 Pin 24 in BCM
Pin #3 White Wire to Connector X7 Pin 19 in BCM

The RAP relay circuit can be activated in two ways, with the RAP relay and Serial Data (BCM).
The Serial Data mode can only control two things, the Radio and the Vehicle Communication Interface Module.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all your trouble!! I'm going to print this out. It will really help. Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update
Finally got a chance to check this out further. Drivers window won't go up or down and when the switch is activated there is a slight but brief motor sound almost as if a circuit breaker has tripped with each attempt. All other windows will operate ONLY if the dome light switch is in the off position. Delayed accessory power for the radio works only with the dome light in the off position and the radio will go off when the door opens. If the dome light switch is in the auto or on position none of the windows operate and the radio will stay on when door is opened with delayed accessory power. Also door ajar indicator will stay on if dome light switch is in the auto or on position. There are two DTC codes B3205-00 and B3205-39. All grounds and power connections seem ok. I'm thinking the BCM is toast but still can't figure out why the drivers window seems to be jammed? With the NEW motor removed the window can be lifted up and glides down so the regulator seems ok. I don't know if I can get a BCM at the wreckers and just plug it in or is there a learning sequence that needs a Tech2? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Check the dome light bulb and see if it has been changed to a led one. If so pull it and check everything out. Either way pull the bulb no matter what type and check.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the suggestions. The bulbs operate and are original to the vehicle. I think the drivers window circuit MAY be the problem but I'm thinking the BCM could be bad. I was a GM Tech before getting into the Fire service over 40 years ago and I've tried to keep up with the technology but this one has me beat! I may just have to throw parts at it until it's fixed.
 

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Wish I could be more help, code B3205 does not exist in my 2014 Equinox Repair Manual.
Other codes close to that number are BCM codes.

Funny how it keeps going back to the Dome Light Switch.
If it were mine I would try a new DL Switch before diving into the BCM.
Easy and cheap enough.

Usually the dealer flashes a new BCM when replacing.
2010 might be old enough to do it with a Tech2 on a Caddy.
 

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Something is interfering with the CAN system. IMO if BCM was bad it wouldn't signal door motor with light on or off.
'08 to '12 GM vehicles had fretting corrosion issues in connectors at the BCM. Cleaning with a good electrical / lube would be my first step at the BCM connectors.
Was a common issue in Malibu's and I had a issue in my old '09 with BCM connectors, they even had a recall with brake light issues on them.
B3205 CADILLAC Possible Causes
What does this mean?
  • Faulty Driver Window Motor
  • Driver Window Motor harness is open or shorted
  • Driver Window Motor circuit poor electrical connection


  • New motor could be a dud. Does it run without it being connected to the regulator ? Only testing I could find for that code was for my '11 Tahoe in Alldatadiy which is below.
  • Circuit/System Testing
    1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the appropriate window motor.
    2. Connect a test lamp between control circuit terminal A and control circuit terminal B.
    3. Ignition ON, command the window UP and DOWN by using the door switch. The test lamp should turn ON when commanding the UP and DOWN states.
  • ¤If the test lamp is always OFF during either of the commands, test either control circuit for a short to ground or open/high resistance. If the circuits test normal, replace the door switch.
    ¤If the test lamp is always ON, test either control circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuits test normal, replace the door switch
    1. If all circuits test normal, test or replace the window motor.
Component Testing

Important:
When performing the following tests, make sure that the window motor is not all ready in the position the test is attempting to produce.


  1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the appropriate window motor.
  2. Install a 25A fused jumper wire between the control terminal A and 12 volts. Momentarily install a jumper wire between the control terminal B and ground. The window motor should perform the UP or DOWN function.
¤If the function does not perform as specified, replace the window motor.
  1. Reverse the jumper wires; the window motor should perform the DOWN or UP function.
¤If the function does not perform as specified, replace the window motor
 

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I still say pull the dome light bulb. You may be getting some feedback through the circuit. I also suggest pulling down the overhead console and checking the wiring up there for any shorts, broken or bare wires. Concentrate on the fact that your issues involve the dome light switch position. You might check the wiring in the door jamb again looking for broken or bare wires.
Quite a few times when you have a break in the wiring, the power will try the next easiest path back to the battery. This may be through another circuit. Trust me, it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
rednox301, repairman54 and rusty503. Thanks for the suggestions and help, it's appreciated and I'm not discounting anything you suggest trying. repairman54, thanks for the flowchart, this will really help. I don't have a Tech2 but I do have Snap-on scanner. Older one but works well. I'll check the connections to the BCM for anything funky and try the motor removed from the regulator (the original motor did exactly the same thing) The regulator seems to move smoothly without the motor but I'll try it anyway. I'll also check bulbs and the wiring to the door. I'll post my results!
 

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If we throw enough darts at the board someone is going to hit a bull's-eye.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I miss the good old days when the only computer around was a calculator! But now I have no choice but to throw some more darts!
 

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When I get sucked into working on family or friends vehicles I make them pop for the cost of a Alldata for their vehicle.
Since I already have a few it's only $20 for additional ones and hey I'm doing you a favor saving you a lot more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The owner is a good friend, worked with him for 35 years so it's self inflicted. I found the location and checked it all out. It would appear the BCM is at fault. If you don't work on these things every day it can be a challenge. Thanks for all the help, it's appreciated.
 
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