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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a 2010 equinox for the wife. All was well for a few weeks. One morning it cranks but won’t start. No check engine light previously. I was told to change the high pressure fuel pump. So I changed it. I rotated engine by hand to get cam in bottom position before installing new pump. I can hear the pumps in the tank kick on when key is turned to on position. I metered voltage at hpfp connector, and it is good. I did not bleed pressure before disconnecting fuel lines, not sure if that is an issue. I’m told mechanical pump don’t need to be primed, but is there something else I missed? I have ohmed out every fuse, ECM relay and run crank relay. Could it be the fuel pump control module in the rear or the map sensor? Any help would be very much appreciated. Considering buying a OBD2 scanner soon.
 

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I was told to change the high pressure fuel pump. So I changed it. I rotated engine by hand to get cam in bottom position before installing new pump. Could it be the fuel pump control module in the rear or the map sensor. Considering buying a OBD2 scanner soon.
You may or may not have had a bad high pressure pump, you have a new one now.
At this point a scan for trouble codes would be the best use of your time and resources.
Too many possible things it could be.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You may or may not have had a bad high pressure pump, you have a new one now.
At this point a scan for trouble codes would be the best use of your time and resources.
Too many possible things it could be.
Yea, that’s kinda what I was thinking. I’m gonna purchase a scanner, need one anyway. Thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Return the pump and get a scanner. Yea don't take it apart first.
I purchased a scanner that will be in tomorrow. I’ll keep the pump though, it did look like there was a leak coming from the gasket of the old pump anyway. I will update when I have the read out from the scanner. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I received my scanner had got time to do a scan and this is what I got....
2 permanent trouble codes
P0690 ECM/PCM power relay sense circuit high
P062B internal control module fuel injector control
performance
I’m no trained mechanic, but I would think that both the codes together would suggest a problem with wiring or a bad ground somewhere, rather than a bad module. Does that make any sense? If anyone can elaborate I would greatly appreciate.

1 BCM code U0198 which says lost communication with telematic control module
I’m not sure what that means....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I received my scanner had got time to do a scan and this is what I got....
2 permanent trouble codes
P0690 ECM/PCM power relay sense circuit high
P062B internal control module fuel injector control
performance
I’m no trained mechanic, but I would think that both the codes together would suggest a problem with wiring or a bad ground somewhere, rather than a bad module. Does that make any sense? If anyone can elaborate I would greatly appreciate.

1 BCM code U0198 which says lost communication with telematic control module
I’m not sure what that means....
Also, the scanner did say that both of the permanent trouble codes are uncommon problems with 2010 equinox
 

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P062B CHEVROLET Possible Causes
What does this mean?
  • Faulty Control Module Fuel Injector Control
  • Control Module Fuel Injector Control harness is open or shorted
  • Control Module Fuel Injector Control circuit poor electrical connection
 

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Like repairman54 said the P062B is most likely to be the issue. That code usually means replacing the ECM as the control module for fuel injector control is internal to the ECM. ( and yes you would need to program the replacement ECM .... ) However you might try checking the fuses and relays in the under hood fuse box before replacing the ECM. Fuses 42 , 38 , and 43 are a good place to start along with relays 66 and 68. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea it’s gotta be either the ECM it’s self, or a wiring issue, but I’m thinking ECM. I have ohmed out every single fuse with my multimeter. Also popped the gray covers off the ECM, Run/Crank, and Starter relays and ohmed them out with a battery and a jumper. This was before I had my scanner and I was just trying to figure it out myself. Good news is ECM isn’t very expensive. Hopefully getting programmed won’t be bad. Thanks for the help. I will update when I do getting it running
 

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How often is it the ECM, though? Extremely rare. "Lost Communications" could just be a cracked wire somewhere .. or a bad or loose plug! I think you need to eliminate all that stuff first ... if you can. What you really need is a way to put a device on the car's network that can test communications to all these modules ... especially those involved with fuel delivery. The Dealer undoubtedly has such tools, and should be able to make quick work of finding the root cause in a single hour's time. If the Dealer guaranteed they could tell you what the problem was for their single hourly rate (say, $130 + towing), would you pay that?

BTW: wouldn't a bad crank sensor cause this same symptom, too? Or is there some way all of the spark plugs could be blocked electrically from one point? Or could bad O2 Sensor(s) be holding the Fuel Injectors closed? And have you tested the fuel pressure?
 

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Any update to your problem? Not wanting to hijack or thread, but Having a similar issue with my 2011 Equinox. Displaying the P062B and P0420 codes.

So far, I've checked the Fuel pump and it is working, just replaced the High Pressure Fuel pump. Not sure if it is related or not, but I have had to replace the manifold twice (2017 @ 95k and 2020 @ 126k miles) and upstream o2. Downstream O2 has never been replaced. Could the downstream (or even upstream) be causing the non-start? Clogged fuel injectors?

When spraying Start Fluid in the Intake it will start and crank, but of course shuts off shortly after.
 

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The P0420 is a Catalyst System Low Efficiency code and is highly unlikely to cause a no-start. The P062B is a Control Module Fuel Injector Control Performance code and would seem to be a good place to start. It is usually a sign that the ECM is not able to control or trigger the fuel injectors properly. I listed a few things to check in post #9 above, otherwise you may want the dealer to have a look at it.
I have never seen an O2 sensor causing a cold no-start issue.... You could try to start it with both sensors unplugged just to see. ( but doing that will set other codes for the O2 sensors... )
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, sorry guys, for the extended delay. I do have an update. I brought the vehicle to a dealer to repair. They had it for 2 months and 1 week, saying first that their “engine specialist” needed to asses the problem, but he was very busy and that was the hold up. 2 weeks later there was no more talk of an “engine specialist, now it was their 1 (and only) technician was out with COVID and would be for 2 more weeks, and his helper didn’t have the knowledge because there was a possible wiring problem. 3 weeks later he still wasn’t back yet but, “was supposed to be coming in today” and the following week in the morning “he hasn’t made it in yet but he would be in shortly” same day around 3, magically a bulletin from Chevy factory appeared telling them to change the ECM. Not to change fuel pump or wiring problem, faulty ECM. However, my vehicle had been sitting there for so long the battery was completely dead, and they needed to install a new one. $282 later, I had a new battery. Now around 4pm same day, they can order ecm, but since it’s so late in the day it would be 2 more days before part arrives and that would cost $785. I ask why so expensive, reply “well $240 for part and the rest labor” $545 dollars to change the ecm that I did myself in less than 10 minutes easy. Doesn’t even require a tool. I reluctantly agree, knowing that new ecm has to be programmed and flashed and all that.
Later that evening I find a ecm $140 from FS1 that comes programmed and flashed, I just need to give them my VIN. All I needed to do was reprogram my key to the new computer. They provided me instructions to do so. Great, so I call dealership first thing next morning, I tell them never mind, I will be coming to get my vehicle, that much labor cost is entirely too much, and how can you tell me the exact cost of labor when you haven’t done the work to know how long it will take? I’m then told “Ohhhh, well the part is already here, I’ll have to see if it can be returned and you’ll have to pay a restocking fee” Now I’m really pissed. Anyway 2 1/2 months and $315 later I have a new battery.
Yesterday the ecm came in, I remove old one and install new one, again very easily under 10 min. Follow instructions to program key and....... it won’t work.
I am trying the 30 minute procedure for all keys lost. My immobilizer light does not stay on like it is supposed to. It only comes on briefly at first then goes away as normal. I have no message on DIC. I scan with my OBD scanner and get a code P0633 immobilizer key not learned. How can immobilizer light go off at ignition on as if functioning normally, and the computer know the key has not been learned. And my key fob will still lock and unlock all the doors? If I attempt to crank, entire DIC goes black, and nothing happens. Absolutely nothing, no sounds, no clicking, no attempt, nothing. So at this point I am lost.
if anyone is still reading this and has any idea what is going on, please help.
I’m told I can bypass immobilizer with my emergency access key code, which could be found in owners manual, but I can’t find it or any mention to such a thing in my manual. Also, if this is true, then there should also be a way to force the transponder to talk to ecm. At least that is my first question when I heard about this bypass procedure. Any info or ideas welcome, anyone know where/how to locate the emergency access key code (EAK) or if that even exists, please share. Thanks guys.
PS you can hijack the thread if you can help me out lol, I’ll gladly give it you
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So no one has to ask, I am only getting 2 codes, the immobilizer key not learned, and crankshaft position not learned, this one is certainly from changing high pressure fuel pump. I just haven’t done a relearn yet. (Funny the dealership never mentioned that code) And it was a GMC dealership not a Chevy dealership. I brought it there because they were recommended to me by a mechanic that does good work (not affiliated with GMC in anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, the ecm I ordered is a OEM A/C Delco identical to the stock ecm I replaced.
 

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That Dealership seems especially bad! They don't seem to know what they're doing, or they just don't have the people, the expertise, or proper management. Whichever it is, you don't need to be dealing with it. And I never would've paid for that new battery, either. It died while in their possession because they were negligent, spending more time making excuses than actually doing any work! How long does it take to assess a problem and get back to the customer? C'mon! You should've gone to Wal-Mart, bought an "EverStart" battery, carried it in, and installed it yourself ... right in front of them ... and then turned around and (angrily) said, "See ... This is how you get things done!".

But at least you finally escaped, right?

Anyway ... did you try this sequence:


... and read this?


.
 

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I tried to replace the ECM about a month ago through the same company without any luck either. Any reason they didn't mention replacing the Fuel Pump Control Module located in the trunk wheel well?

I am currently working on pulling and testing the Fuel Injectors to see If that may be the cause of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The ECM from FS1 wasn’t the problem. I needed to reset my SMS. Once that was done, programming the key went smoothly, and finally the vehicle is back on the road and running like new. If you are asking about why the dealership did not mention the fuel control module, I assume it was because they claimed to have gotten a bulletin from Chevy saying to change the ECM. Apparently this is a common occurrence and most people go for the fuel pump first. The codes also mention possible wiring issue with the ground. My understanding was that Chevy told them to go straight to the ECM. And in my case, that seemed to be the problem. Hope this answers your question.
 
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