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2010 Chevy Nox
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 2010 equinox for the wife. All was well for a few weeks. One morning it cranks but won’t start. No check engine light previously. I was told to change the high pressure fuel pump. So I changed it. I rotated engine by hand to get cam in bottom position before installing new pump. I can hear the pumps in the tank kick on when key is turned to on position. I metered voltage at hpfp connector, and it is good. I did not bleed pressure before disconnecting fuel lines, not sure if that is an issue. I’m told mechanical pump don’t need to be primed, but is there something else I missed? I have ohmed out every fuse, ECM relay and run crank relay. Could it be the fuel pump control module in the rear or the map sensor? Any help would be very much appreciated. Considering buying a OBD2 scanner soon.
 

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I was told to change the high pressure fuel pump. So I changed it. I rotated engine by hand to get cam in bottom position before installing new pump. Could it be the fuel pump control module in the rear or the map sensor. Considering buying a OBD2 scanner soon.
You may or may not have had a bad high pressure pump, you have a new one now.
At this point a scan for trouble codes would be the best use of your time and resources.
Too many possible things it could be.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
You may or may not have had a bad high pressure pump, you have a new one now.
At this point a scan for trouble codes would be the best use of your time and resources.
Too many possible things it could be.
Yea, that’s kinda what I was thinking. I’m gonna purchase a scanner, need one anyway. Thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Return the pump and get a scanner. Yea don't take it apart first.
I purchased a scanner that will be in tomorrow. I’ll keep the pump though, it did look like there was a leak coming from the gasket of the old pump anyway. I will update when I have the read out from the scanner. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I received my scanner had got time to do a scan and this is what I got....
2 permanent trouble codes
P0690 ECM/PCM power relay sense circuit high
P062B internal control module fuel injector control
performance
I’m no trained mechanic, but I would think that both the codes together would suggest a problem with wiring or a bad ground somewhere, rather than a bad module. Does that make any sense? If anyone can elaborate I would greatly appreciate.

1 BCM code U0198 which says lost communication with telematic control module
I’m not sure what that means....
 

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2010 Chevy Nox
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Discussion Starter #7
So I received my scanner had got time to do a scan and this is what I got....
2 permanent trouble codes
P0690 ECM/PCM power relay sense circuit high
P062B internal control module fuel injector control
performance
I’m no trained mechanic, but I would think that both the codes together would suggest a problem with wiring or a bad ground somewhere, rather than a bad module. Does that make any sense? If anyone can elaborate I would greatly appreciate.

1 BCM code U0198 which says lost communication with telematic control module
I’m not sure what that means....
Also, the scanner did say that both of the permanent trouble codes are uncommon problems with 2010 equinox
 

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P062B CHEVROLET Possible Causes
What does this mean?
  • Faulty Control Module Fuel Injector Control
  • Control Module Fuel Injector Control harness is open or shorted
  • Control Module Fuel Injector Control circuit poor electrical connection
 

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Like repairman54 said the P062B is most likely to be the issue. That code usually means replacing the ECM as the control module for fuel injector control is internal to the ECM. ( and yes you would need to program the replacement ECM .... ) However you might try checking the fuses and relays in the under hood fuse box before replacing the ECM. Fuses 42 , 38 , and 43 are a good place to start along with relays 66 and 68. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea it’s gotta be either the ECM it’s self, or a wiring issue, but I’m thinking ECM. I have ohmed out every single fuse with my multimeter. Also popped the gray covers off the ECM, Run/Crank, and Starter relays and ohmed them out with a battery and a jumper. This was before I had my scanner and I was just trying to figure it out myself. Good news is ECM isn’t very expensive. Hopefully getting programmed won’t be bad. Thanks for the help. I will update when I do getting it running
 
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