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2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4L (LAF) LS FWD
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Discussion Starter #1
Am I still able to pressure test the coolant system from the overflow tank and if so how many psi should it hold and for how long?
I feel like I know the answer to this already but I need a second opinion on this dang thing, lol....
Also, when I'm filling up the overflow with the cap off should it leak out somewhere on the back side or underneath before it even gets to the top to overflow because I am getting a stream under the reservoir while filling it up (even tho it holds coolant) and I'm not spilling it or overflowing it.
I leave it parked for a while before checking it and it holds pressure for a lil while but it's crazy cause of the stream I get sometimes when filling it up, so therefore it shouldn't hold pressure if there's a leak in the reservoir tank should it....
I wish I could explain this issue a lil clearer but this vehicle is some kind of crazy, it's hard to explain anything that's wrong with this vehicle, so don't even get me started on the other indescribable issues, lmao, just like the running rich issue I'm having but NO symptoms of a rich condition other than my LTFT running -20 to -28, and the random multiple cylinder misfires....
P.S.- I am NOT a MASTER mechanic but I am pretty savvy with this vehicle (and others) and how it should operate, I consider myself a lil above average on knowledge about the mechanics of a vehicle, but once again, this thing has got me stumped with the unexplainable things that it does, lol....
 

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Helm Manual stays it should hold the rated pressure for at least 2 minutes.

As far as the leak while pouring - it’s funny you mention this because the same thing happened to me once with my 2002 Impala. I was deliberately overfilling the Surge Tank because of a known leak, but I went too high and it started spilling out on the firewall side due to an integral molded elbow at the very top pointing down toward the ground (that I never realized was there!).

I don’t think the Equinox Surge Tank has such an overflow release hole, but you might want to check for that. Otherwise, the tank might have a crack in it? Maybe pull it out, dry it off, and test/inspect it out of the vehicle?
 
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When you are filling the overflow tank it should not leak out anywhere.
The leak location is the first place to start.
After that leak is repaired, then use the pressure tester.

Pump up to 12 to 13 psi, no more and wait at least 2 minutes.
You don't want to put too much pressure in the system and pop a heater core.
 

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2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4L (LAF) LS FWD
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Discussion Starter #6
Helm Manual stays it should hold the rated pressure for at least 2 minutes.

As far as the leak while pouring - it’s funny you mention this because the same thing happened to me once with my 2002 Impala. I was deliberately overfilling the Surge Tank because of a known leak, but I went too high and it started spilling out on the firewall side due to an integral molded elbow at the very top pointing down toward the ground (that I never realized was there!).

I don’t think the Equinox Surge Tank has such an overflow release hole, but you might want to check for that. Otherwise, the tank might have a crack in it? Maybe pull it out, dry it off, and test/inspect it out of the vehicle?
Yes I need to just pull it.
I wonder if they have the same part number for overflow tanks?
That's what I was doing cause I have a tiny leak somewhere (probably the head gasket but that's another subject, lol).
But it's crazy cause I can let it cool down and cone back egr 10 mins later and it still has pressure on it.
It's a weird machine, man, lol....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When you are filling the overflow tank it should not leak out anywhere.
The leak location is the first place to start.
After that leak is repaired, then use the pressure tester.

Pump up to 12 to 13 psi, no more and wait at least 2 minutes.
You don't want to put too much pressure in the system and pop a heater core.
That's exactly what I thought and the procedure I was looking to do, but I guess I'm just in denial about it. Especially after the things/problems here lately I've already done to it, lol....
One of my theories is that the water is expanding and pushing out of the hole/crack in the reservoir, hence the small gradual loss of water.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's exactly what I thought and the procedure I was looking to do, but I guess I'm just in denial about it. Especially after the things/problems here lately I've already done to it, lol....
One of my theories is that the water is expanding and pushing out of the hole/crack in the reservoir, hence the small gradual loss of water.
When you are filling the overflow tank it should not leak out anywhere.
The leak location is the first place to start.
After that leak is repaired, then use the pressure tester.

Pump up to 12 to 13 psi, no more and wait at least 2 minutes.
You don't want to put too much pressure in the system and pop a heater core.
And I pray I never have to change the heater core, have you seen what it takes to get to those things....
 

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As long as we are on the subject of radiator overflow tanks, does your tank have two lines going to it?
I was looking in the repair manual and the 2014 has two.

The top, smaller one is an air bleed that goes from the top of the tank to where the upper radiator hose meets the engine.
The bottom, larger one goes from the bottom of the tank to the thermostat housing.
Make sure to check both if you have two.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As long as we are on the subject of radiator overflow tanks, does your tank have two lines going to it?
I was looking in the repair manual and the 2014 has two.

The top, smaller one is an air bleed that goes from the top of the tank to where the upper radiator hose meets the engine.
The bottom, larger one goes from the bottom of the tank to the thermostat housing.
Make sure to check both if you have two.
Yes there are 2 lines entering/leaving the reservoir. I have felt them and they are always dry.
Is there a place for it to relieve pressure if it gets to high, if so then I haven't noticed it, and if not then that would be a flaw wouldn't it? Cause even a radiator cap has a breaking/relief point.
 

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Yes there are 2 lines entering/leaving the reservoir. I have felt them and they are always dry.
Is there a place for it to relieve pressure if it gets to high, if so then I haven't noticed it, and if not then that would be a flaw wouldn't it? Cause even a radiator cap has a breaking/relief point.
The cap is made to relieve pressure if it gets too high.
Look on the cap, you will 16 or 18 psi listed, this is the max pressure before the cap starts to bleed off pressure.
A good reason to change your cap every now and then.
Change it with a AC/Delco and match the psi of the one you take off.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
The cap is made to relieve pressure if it gets too high.
Look on the cap, you will 16 or 18 psi listed, this is the max pressure before the cap starts to bleed off pressure.
A good reason to change your cap every now and then.
Change it with a AC/Delco and match the psi of the one you take off.
Yeah I'm slowly but surely learning to not put anything on these vehicles but AC Delco, I'm beginning to think they have their ECM programmed for AC Delco ONLY (sensors and stuff like that, I don't think non moving parts would matter but I'm still going with AC Delco)....
 
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