I wholeheartedly agree..! I also try to do this once a year. I then add a good polish after the claybar...next a good wax to top it off(I use my favorite brand...). After this once a year proccess...I use a quick spray detailing wax after each wash. Sounds like alot of work....but after the initial claybaring.. polishing and waxing..the wash and quick spray wax maintains the luster usually untill the late fall.Barry said:For those of you that have never tried claying your car, you are missing one of the most important steps in getting a fabulous shiny finish. Also, convince yourself with this little test: Clay the WINDSHIELD of your car and you will be AMAZED at the difference. Removing the surface contaminants lets your polish and or wax adhere much better and will result in a deeper look. New cars that are transported by train are notorious for have "rail dust" imbedded in the clearcoat. These look like little brown rust spots. Claying removes them. Also, claying is easier and faster than waxing. Every new car should be clayed to remove the surface contaminants from the train tracks "rails" and road contaminants from the car haulers. Then polish or wax to keep it looking good. Wax acts as a sacroficial coating that gets eaten up by sun, rain, acid rain, washing....and all the things that would first attack your paint.
I use soapy water as a lube. Car wash soap, of course. One thing that I use for clay - when in a pinch - is Home Depot window rope-caulk. It comes in a roll - and it is the consistency of clay - maybe a little less pliable, but tons cheaper. If you ruin your car, don't blame me, but it has worked fine for me for the last 10 years !hyperv6 said:One trick I and others have learned is you can water with the clay, IF the car is clean and not in great need to break up any tar etc you can use the water as a lub to rub out the car.
First off there are different grades of polish. I keep anywhere from 7-8 different levels of polish or glaze. On a new car I use a glaze then I seal it with a pure Carnuba wax with no cleaners.1LT said:Some interesting methods described here! My nox is a couple weeks old now, and I really need to get myself in gear and give it a good clay and seal.
My procedure is hand wash, mothers clay kit, wash again, then Blackfire Wet Diamond sealer.
I love the Blackfire stuff, it's too easy to use and lasts too long for me to not use it.
I see some people here talking about polish, then wax/sealer? Polish, to me, suggests that it has some abrasives in it which is definitly a no no, especially on a new car. Your clear coat is not going to get any more shiny than it already is, and a polish would just add micro scratches in the clear coat. Polish is for old hoopties with blown out, oxidized, swirl marked paint, NOT a beautiful new car with fresh clear coat. Oh, the horror!
Truedat, but I'll bet 9 out of 10 could "feel" the difference ! Especially if they put their hand inside a baggie before the "feel your car up" !GARYD said:If I put my washed and waxed car next to a clayed car, I bet 99 out of 100 wouldn't know/see the difference, maybe 100 out of 100.
The truth is clay is a tool that need to be used when there is a call for it. If the surface of the car has sap or embedded material like most daily drivers get claying once or twice a year is fine. Most of it depends on local conditions and where you park it.GARYD said:HYPERV6, that's what I've been saying for years. I've never clayed any of my cars including my Vette show cars. And always received 10 points for paint. 10 was the max points available.
Not knocking claying - it's just not for me - I have a lot better things to do in what little time I have left. :thumb:
If I put my washed and waxed car next to a clayed car, I bet 99 out of 100 wouldn't know/see the difference, maybe 100 out of 100.