Hello,Eric J, Kindly, could you update me, did using the cfm vented oil cap reduce the crankcase gunk from backing up into your cleanside PCV catch can?Thanks for the info! I haven't used the CFM oil cap breather since I installed the catch can; but I think it may be a good idea! I'll give it a shot!
Hi ThreeNox, So I didn't like the CFM cap much because it left oil residue all over the place. I went with the Delco vented cap, and like it much better. I haven't seen much in the oil catch can lately. But I burned a qt in < 900 miles after an oil change! I also tried a new brand of oil that I've never used in the Nox, so maybe that was part of the problem...IDK. Next oil change I'm going back to Mobil 1 probably....although I had decent results with the generic Amazon full syn at a much lower price. I have about 136K on it now.Hello,Eric J, Kindly, could you update me, did using the cfm vented oil cap reduce the crankcase gunk from backing up into your cleanside PCV catch can?
As a background for other folks, as EricJ said in earlier in this thread,
he put a catchcan on his cleanside PCV and noticed it fill up with crankcase gunk quicly
Then , thinking his dirty side PCV was plugged , he replaced the the black plastic intake manifold, which is not an easy job in this equinox. The black plastic intake manifold has the dirty side PCV orificemolded into it.......
Despite a brand new, clean and unplugged dirty side PCV orifice,
Still the clean side breather hose, to which Eric J has a catch can hooked up...
Despite a new and clean dirty side PCV, piston blow by still filled the cleanside PCV catch can with crankcase gunk....
Then EricJ said he would use the cfm oil cap again.
So the question I ask, EricJ, is did adding the cfm oil cap stop the cleanside PCV catch can from filling up?
I predict, since the cfm oil cap keeps crankcase pressure at about zero psi, that ericJ's cleanside catch can should be clean, it should not fill up with crankcase gunk, since there is no crankcase pressure. To push thecrankcase gunk into the clean side PCV catch can...
And that same principle ^^ is how the cfm oil cap prevents rear main seal failure, since it is the gunk in cleanside PCV hose that freezes solid in Ice cold weather., and the cfm oil cap vents crankcase pressure...
I know this is a couple months late....but I would NOT buy a used 2012 Nox w/ 2.4 4cyl. I'm nursing mine along at 136K...I'll probably end up changing the pistons & rings myself at some point...or just get a new crate engine...my wife really likes her car.Wondering because I have been looking at a 12 at a dealer I trust. The pistons, rings and timing chain were done by them at 45K it has 73K on it now. It has the goodies I want and is in good shape and a good price.
Just want to know if I still would need to have to worry about the pvc thing or if anything like the oil cap can prevent that for sure.
I could wait for one with a 3.6L and everything I want but maybe not as nice or the price I want.
Guess I can only figure that out.
Thanks. I ended up getting a 2014 GMC Terrain with the 3.6L 6 cylinder in itI know this is a couple months late....but I would NOT buy a used 2012 Nox w/ 2.4 4cyl. I'm nursing mine along at 136K...I'll probably end up changing the pistons & rings myself at some point...or just get a new crate engine...my wife really likes her car.
Great info, thanks for the feedback,Hi ThreeNox, So I didn't like the CFM cap much because it left oil residue all over the place. I went with the Delco vented cap, and like it much better. I haven't seen much in the oil catch can lately. .
Well, I don't remember the time of year I changed the manifold, but you are correct, that the catch can collects more junk during the winter when it's more humid out, not so much in spring and summer. The radiator hose trick is pretty ingenious!....... Also, I do not recall the temperature when initially replaced your air intake manifold, but I would guess that winter vs summer makes a difference on how much crankcase gunk is collected in your clean side catch can.
I am surprised fc219 oil cap "lately" reduces oil accumulation in your catch can , since I think the cracking pressure of the fc219 oil cap is greater then 1.5 psi, The fc219 oil cap behaves similar to the Oem cap, except for that it vents crankcase at pressure greater then 1.5 psi
AND since you have no "oil residue" inside your engine around the fc219 oil cap, that tells me it is not venting crankcase pressure.... your crankcase is not seeing pressure greater then 1.5 psi.....
Perhaps it is because "lately" it is not winter outside now..
Thanks for the feedback... cheers
All I can say at this moment is WOW!!!
First , I want to thank everyone for their detailed info on this subject ...... but .... after hours of reading, my brain is confused and fried. Maybe it is me but, it seems there is so much conflicting answers, I still don't know what is right. In March, 2021, my 2017 Terrain blew its rear seal at about 70,000 miles and stranded my butt on the interstate. $2000 dollars to repair. Now I really liked this vehicle but now it scares me. This WILL happen again. I have read hours of posts here and discussed it with the dealer mechanic that fixed mine. The conclusions I am reaching are , use a fc219 oil cap. Use a CFM cap in the winter. A catch can is basically useless. Change oil every 5000 miles and use full synthetic. Pay the mechanic $200 every couple years to yank the intake and check it.( maybe even replace it as cheap as it is). If I do this , hopefully, life will be good.
Is this a correct assumption on my part ( in all your opinions)?
All of the opinions and info I have read here makes sense to me, but it can't all be correct because some of it is so conflicting. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, just I am confused.
Thank you all for your wisdom.
I see one problem here. Catch can should be mounted as low as possible so all contaminants and especially condensation drain back to can which should help prevent a freeze point at air box.2.4L 2014 Terrain
chose this can cause I could open it to add steel wool for condensing, and a 'straw' to either suck it to the bottom so fumes have to rise through steel wool, or suck it down through the steel wool and up straw. I didnt keep track of which hole i had the straw in. It was 3/8" nylon water line I drilled several holes in bottom half.
It slip fits inside either fitting in the lid. I put silicone all around the line before final insert.
This lid was also nice as I could remount it with a better choice of orientation of the inlet/outlet fittings.
Cheapest can on amazon was welded, so this was best 2nd choice for me.
Toughest part was the #8 x 1/2" self drilling screws I used to mount to vehicle.
Put masking tape on screw head so it stayed put in the 1/4" socket I used my hex impact with a hex to 1/4 drive adapter to spin them in.
I used the brass plumbing inserts to keep the original 'pipe' from crushing with the clamps.
Personally, i dont feel the clamps are required. The supplied blue hose was a very firm press to get over the original pipe. I would use the clamps at the fittings on the can though.
reverting, just use the supplied blue line as a coupler to rejoin the original pipe.
Ill need to add some 1/2" peel and stick foam insulation strip on back of can to keep can from jiggling.
Otherwise - allow a half hour/1 beer install once you have everything together.
Occurred to me to blow air through it first to ensure no bits loose getting sucked into engine.
Pulled the blue lines off and blew 90psi through inlet/outlet. Nothing came out but ymmv.
reassembled with peace of mind.
Great idea. Instead of using a vacuum port, do you think I could get away with drilling a 1/8 hole at the same location and covering it with foil tape?Here's the same job on the intake manifold in the car. I didn't remove the manifold, but used a combination drill/tap bit, whilst using the shop vac to remove the plastic filings. I drilled the hole manually, I didn't use an electric drill. View attachment 18650 View attachment 18651 and here it is installed (with some RTV on the threads) with a rubber vacuum cap on it. I just pull the cap off and ream out the PVC orifice with some wire every oil change. View attachment 18652