GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
2011 GMC TERRAIN SLT-2 3.0L V6 (LF1)
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Terrain v6 and was wondering if the idle can be raised from my normal 550 to 750?
Has anyone done it successfully to their vehicle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,642 Posts
Running the A/C will raise the idle speed, or run the Defroster. Maybe you trick it to think that the A/C is operating.

Curious, why do you want to raise the idle speed.

Or, you could also add some type of switch to manually make the car think that it is cold outside, and then disengage that switch when you want the car to run correctly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: christopherlompoc

·
Registered
2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L FWD 173k miles
Joined
·
4,190 Posts
Years ago, of course, it was just a turn of a screw ... but nowadays, I would think it's a software patch?

Is it stumbling too much at idle? If so, have you done all the obvious things to smooth it out (e.g.: replace air filter, clean the throttle body)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Is that the dash tach reading or via a scan tool? Dash tach is not super reliable.
 

·
Registered
2011 GMC TERRAIN SLT-2 3.0L V6 (LF1)
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The reason for raising the idle some is it smooths out some when at 750. At 550 im getting headlight and interior overhead light flicker. At 750 the flicker is gone, weird.
The reading is from the dash tach but ill double check it with my scan tool.
Ive been doing a maintenance parts replacement since the truck has 123,000 miles and it is my only vehicle so it HAS to be reliable.
I really dont mind replacing alot of the wear parts as I dont like to be broken down on the side of the road and I want to get alot more miles from it if I can.

Throttle body is new and the air filter is clean. I have a laundry list of small parts that I replaced in the past year or 2.
A couple months back the HPFP, VVT actuators, and an upper cylinder cleaning was done.
I have some more stuff im replacing in the next few weeks like new coils, plugs, rear 02 sensors, thermostat, new tranny fluid, transfer case fluid and differential fluid.
I have new gaskets for the lower and upper intake manifold. sorry for the long winded reply, but it just never ends with this truck. lol

Heres what its doing, when I start it from cold it idles silky smooth in open loop. while it tranfers to closed loop it runs smooth as well, but after I put a few miles on it and the temp
goes to warmed up it idles lumpy but it doesn't try to stall, its just lumpy. I know the plugs are going to be pretty sooty because it was running very rich for awhile before the HPFP
was replaced, so thats a given. Im thinking misfires maybe from bad coils after they get hot. I have a scanner but its not the best. Its an Innova 5160rs. I really need a better scanner someday.

Oh, I do have a new negative battery cable for it also but im waiting to get a positive cable as well before I replace, might as well do both while im in there.
And I have 4 new camshaft position sensors too but ill wait till they fail first.
This summer I plan on walnut blasting the intake valves but for now I will just scrape and wire brush them the best I can till then. I bet they are pretty nasty and may be contributing to the problem.
Its a great truck and plan on keeping it for awhile. Oh yeah I forgot, when I bought it I had all new front suspension replaced and rear shocks as well, it handles great now.

Any other suggestions would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
If the lights stop flickering when you speed up the engine most likely the brushes in the alternator are wearing out. At 123k miles one can expect things to start wearing out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jackass

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
No modern car should have light flickering/pulsing unless there are issues with the electrical system. The battery should be able to provide proper voltage to eliminate pulses from the alternator. So I would say take a closer look at the battery, cables, and alternator to see why there are either spikes or dips in voltage causing the visual pulsing.
 

·
Registered
2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L FWD 173k miles
Joined
·
4,190 Posts
@hron61 : how about the O2 sensors? They live in that terrible environment all the time. And they provide feedback to the ECM to maintain the fuel/air mixture. And they can (apparently) get "lazy" and report back misleading information that could cause the ECM to erroneously adjust air and/or fuel ... maybe even without throwing a code!

That said ... at almost 175,000 miles now ... my O2 sensors are still original from the factory, as is just about everything else on my Nox: plugs, coils, injectors, alternator, air filter - YES, original!, coolant - YES, original ... everything ... except the Purge Solenoid (which threw an explicit code a few years ago, so I changed it).

All I've changed on my Nox is the purge solenoid ($35), oil (~40 times now), transmission fluid (~5 times), brake pads (1 full set), 2 batteries since factory new, 1 headlight, 1 taillight. And this vehicle has now made about (30), 1800-mile round trips up and down the East Coast since January 2011. I've been making these long treks for 27 years now, with multiple vehicles (all bought new): '97 Taurus, '02 Impala, 2011 Equinox ... and I've come to the conclusion that there's something very beneficial about continuously running an engine at 75 mph on the highway for long periods of time.

And likewise, there is something not-so-beneficial about continuously running an engine only in short spurts.

I think my vehicle components have lasted longer due to my usage pattern (running the engine hot on the highway for long stretches).
 

·
Registered
2010 chevy equinox 2.4
Joined
·
950 Posts
summer I plan on walnut blasting the intake valves but
Don't do it, with the cleaning you will see a small % increase in the idle and walnut blasting is the best method you can't really get all the valves to seat the same way / perfect without removing all the carbon from all the valve and seats....its Nearly impossible. If you can then yes. But the equinox alternator will go through several different duty cycles depending on battery % charge, rpm, other factors like eco mode, temperature ECT... Low idle speed is a common problem in some cars with high miles 550 I believe is common on your car though temperature and altitude are some main factors in idle rpm set by the pcm. It can't be changed but could automatically adjust from 500 to 1200 rpm + - depending on ac/ Temp ect. The only way to manually adjust would be to manually adjust the temperature ECT maybe trick the ac system with a switch to / from the compressor (easy) or with some resistors on a temp signal wire... Even with 1 spark plug totally removed the car would idle at the same rpm.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top