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I finally figured out how to turn off my Auto Headlights for around $30 and still have the ability to use the Auto mode!
This is how I did it.
1. I purchased a new Headlamp switch ( $25-32 Rock Auto). AC Delco #84201596 W/fog lights, #84192536 W/O fog lights.
2. I removed the 4 screws holding the back cover on and using an eye glass screw driver I released the 6 tabs holding the back cover on and removed it (fig.1)
Using the same screwdriver I carefully pried off the Printed Circuit Board (fig.2)
Be extremely careful when taking off PCB. There are 2 copper contacts on the underside,( they are very delicate), that are not attached to anything and might be stuck to the PCB (fig.3) View attachment 18155
I used a toothpick to put one back where it belonged.
3. Using a 1.3mm Ball Burr on my Dremel, ( see fig.3 ), I made a new indentation/seat on switch (fig.4 Before)
(fig.5 After)
Now when I turn the switch to the off position it stays in place, (fig.6) View attachment 18153
NO MORE HIDs igniting every time I unlock my car and I can still use the switch as intended!
4. I opened hood, using the appropriate tools (fig.7)
I created as much slack in cable as I could and disconnected cable at the hood release inside car. I didn't try but you might not have to disconnect cable. If you pull the cable down 90 degrees it should pop put.
5. I removed the 3 bottom 7mm screws of the Panel Knee Bolster and using a flat bladed plastic trim tool I released 3 of the Pain In Ass clips on left side ( fig.8)
I have small hands so 3 gave me enough room to reach in and depress the 4 locking tabs and remove the switch. I removed electrical connector by depressing locking tab ( fig.9 )
and installed new switch.
6. I put Bolster back together and reconnected hood cable. Reconnecting cable is a bit tricky but if I can do it you can do it.
This is how I did it.
1. I purchased a new Headlamp switch ( $25-32 Rock Auto). AC Delco #84201596 W/fog lights, #84192536 W/O fog lights.
2. I removed the 4 screws holding the back cover on and using an eye glass screw driver I released the 6 tabs holding the back cover on and removed it (fig.1)
Using the same screwdriver I carefully pried off the Printed Circuit Board (fig.2)
Be extremely careful when taking off PCB. There are 2 copper contacts on the underside,( they are very delicate), that are not attached to anything and might be stuck to the PCB (fig.3) View attachment 18155
I used a toothpick to put one back where it belonged.
3. Using a 1.3mm Ball Burr on my Dremel, ( see fig.3 ), I made a new indentation/seat on switch (fig.4 Before)
(fig.5 After)
Now when I turn the switch to the off position it stays in place, (fig.6) View attachment 18153
NO MORE HIDs igniting every time I unlock my car and I can still use the switch as intended!
4. I opened hood, using the appropriate tools (fig.7)
I created as much slack in cable as I could and disconnected cable at the hood release inside car. I didn't try but you might not have to disconnect cable. If you pull the cable down 90 degrees it should pop put.
5. I removed the 3 bottom 7mm screws of the Panel Knee Bolster and using a flat bladed plastic trim tool I released 3 of the Pain In Ass clips on left side ( fig.8)
I have small hands so 3 gave me enough room to reach in and depress the 4 locking tabs and remove the switch. I removed electrical connector by depressing locking tab ( fig.9 )
and installed new switch.
6. I put Bolster back together and reconnected hood cable. Reconnecting cable is a bit tricky but if I can do it you can do it.