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I finally figured out how to disable my Auto Headlights for around $30 and stil be able to use auto mode!
This is how I did it.
1) I purchased a new headlight switch ($25-35 Rock Auto). AC Delco #84201596 W/fog lights, #84192536 W/O fog lights.
2) I removed the 4 screws holding the back cover on and using an eye glass screw driver I released the 6 tabs holding on the cover in place and removed it (fig.1)
Using the same screw driver I pried off the Printed Circuit Board (fig.2)
Be extremely careful taking off PCB. There are 2 copper contacts on the underside, (they are very delicate),
that are not attached to anything and might be stuck to the PCB (fig.3).
I had to use a tooth pick to put one back where it belonged.
3) Using a 3mm Ball Burr on my Dremel I made a new Indentation/seat on switch (fig.4 before).
(Fig. 5 after)
Now when I turn switch off it stays in the off position. NO MORE HIDs firing up every time I unlock my car. And I can still use the swtich as it was intended.
4) I opened hood and using the appropriate tools (fig.6)
I created as much slack in cable as I could and disconnected cable at the hood release inside car. I bent the cable down 90 degrees and it popped off. I didn't try but you might not have to disconnect cable.
5) I removed the 3 bottom 7mm screws of the Panel Knee Bolster and using a plat blade trim tool I released 3 of the Pain In Ass clips on left side ( fig.7).
I have small hands some 3 gave me enough room to reach in and compress the 4 locking tabs and remove the switch.
I compressed the locking tab a removed the electrical connector and installed new switch (fig.8)
6) I put Bolster back together and reinstalled hood cable. Connecting cable was a bit tricky but if I can do it so can you.
This is how I did it.
1) I purchased a new headlight switch ($25-35 Rock Auto). AC Delco #84201596 W/fog lights, #84192536 W/O fog lights.
2) I removed the 4 screws holding the back cover on and using an eye glass screw driver I released the 6 tabs holding on the cover in place and removed it (fig.1)
Using the same screw driver I pried off the Printed Circuit Board (fig.2)
Be extremely careful taking off PCB. There are 2 copper contacts on the underside, (they are very delicate),
that are not attached to anything and might be stuck to the PCB (fig.3).
I had to use a tooth pick to put one back where it belonged.
3) Using a 3mm Ball Burr on my Dremel I made a new Indentation/seat on switch (fig.4 before).
(Fig. 5 after)
Now when I turn switch off it stays in the off position. NO MORE HIDs firing up every time I unlock my car. And I can still use the swtich as it was intended.
4) I opened hood and using the appropriate tools (fig.6)
I created as much slack in cable as I could and disconnected cable at the hood release inside car. I bent the cable down 90 degrees and it popped off. I didn't try but you might not have to disconnect cable.
5) I removed the 3 bottom 7mm screws of the Panel Knee Bolster and using a plat blade trim tool I released 3 of the Pain In Ass clips on left side ( fig.7).
I have small hands some 3 gave me enough room to reach in and compress the 4 locking tabs and remove the switch.
I compressed the locking tab a removed the electrical connector and installed new switch (fig.8)
6) I put Bolster back together and reinstalled hood cable. Connecting cable was a bit tricky but if I can do it so can you.