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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
On a previous thread I mentioned a few differences between my wife's 2018 (got totalled) and the 2020 we replaced it with.

One of the things the newer cars aren't coming equipped with is the door unlock buttons on the rear doors. After getting some parts and some free time I started the process of adding them. At the time of this post the project isn't complete but I have confirmed it is possible.

Tools needed:
-Trim panel removal tools
-50 ft 20 AWG wire (I used a different color for each door)
-Terminal crimper
-T45 & T15 torx socket
-Zip ties
-Wire wrap (optional)
-Wire Strippers
-10mm socket and extension
-Pick or small flat screw driver

Parts needed:
-Door handles with passive buttons (obviously)
-Female terminal for Keyless Entry Module - 2035170-1
-Mal terminal for Body to Door connection - 13894085
-Female terminal for Body to Door connection - 15344659
-Female housing for connection to handle - SRVLOSB-02A-DK
-Male terminal for connection to door handle (part # to follow)

First step is getting to the keyless entry module. It is in the luggage compartment on the passenger side behind the trim panel. Aka right above the passenger rear wheel behind the plastics. I took out as much as possible to have room to route wires, but I'll list/show you what I did.

Fold down rear seats and open hatch. Remove "floor" carpet piece that covers little storeage area. Remove insert below that hides the spare tire. Remove the 5 nuts that hold the plastic tray down around the spare tire (10mm) and remove the plastic tray.

Remove the trim that goes around the latch/jamb of the hatch at the bottom.

On the right side of the opening that there is the small hook for a cargo net, unscrew this.

Use your pick to open the little hatch in the D ring below the cargo net hook to expose the T45 bolt that needs to come out. Last fastener is a T15 torx screw behind the seat release handles. A long extension will help here.

Next open the rear passenger door and remove the kick/sil trim by pulling it straight up.

With all these removed carefully start to pull the plastic trim off the right side. I started at the rear and worked forward. Be careful of the rear seat release handles and power outlet if applicable. Once you get some room you'll need to unplug the power outlet and pull back on the seat handles to unhook them from the bracket and pop them back thru the panel. Follow your way forward until the entire panel is off.
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Location of fasteners
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Getting to the module was the hard part.

The grey plug has the red locking tab that needs pulled out until it clicks so you can push in the latch and release the connector. Once the connector is out need to remove the retainer off the end and add 2 wires to slots 1 and 2. I used purple for the driver side trigger wire and grey for the passenger side, 20 AWG. Crimping on the female terminal ends and sliding them into the connector until it clicks and putting the retainer back on the front.

Picture shows the retainer popped out 1 notch. From here it can come off totally or just left here until you get the wires installed.
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Wiring diagram for the grey connector, pins 1 & 2 for the rear doors highlighted.
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Make sure you leave yourself enough wire for the driver side door. I didn't get a picture of the routing of the wires, but I'll illustrate using a previous picture. I followed the cable for the seat release down and across to the driver side. From there I tucked it up under the trim panel opposite the one I removed and pulled it out through the kick/sill trim on the driver side (after pulling the kick panel off). Same thing with the passenger side, only with all the panels removed it was easier to route this side to the B-Pillar.
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Remove the B-Pillar trim is the next step and pretty simple. Using a pick pry off the AirBag plug above the seatbelt to expose a 7mm screw. Removing that allows the top half of the trim to be easily pulled off (pull straight back). Once is off work your way down to the bottom, the lower piece doesn't need fully removed, just enough room to get the connector for the door out.

With the door open the wire gasket has a latch on the top, push down and it hinges out from the bottom. Then a locking retainer on the connector itself needs pulled back so you can push in the tab to remove the connector. From the outside there are 2 metal spring clips holding the body side housing into the pillar, pushing them in towards the center of the housing will release it and allow it to be pulled back into the car. There are some "Christmas Tree" style pins holding the harness in place, might need to pull 1 or 2 of these out to get some slack on the cable.

On both the left and right need to crimp on the male terminal to the wires we just ran. Another locking retainer will need pulled out 1 click to allow for the new terminals to slide in and lock, then pushing the retainer back down into place. Position 12 on both sides is where the new wire will go.

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58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Updated a few part numbers in first post for anyone interested.

Also a little fact finding mission today. The two handles I got for "testing purposes" I disassembled today. They are both "Premier" handles, one front door and one rear, I'm planning on painting them and it seems easier to do it in pieces.

The front door handles are what have the antenna inside them to pick up the fobs on each side of the door. The front door handles have 4 wires, the rear door handles don't have the antenna so only have 2 wires.

Picture time!

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56 Posts
I may have missed it but what part number did you use for the door handles? I am pretty sure I found them but I can't find if the inserts come painted or not. The one you show in one of the pictures looks to be the exact color I am looking for. Satin steel metallic with a color code of G9K.

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