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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This should apply to the 3.0 also.
Doing my checks- I noticed a very light drop in the coolant level in the reservoir. I know what that means.
So I checked and sure enough I could see the signs of a slow leak.
I had my wife call a dealer. She told them this was for a V6 Equinox.
She tells me $1200, because its in a hard place to get to.

$1200!!! I yell... Tell them this is the V6.. not the 4. She repeated they said because its hard to get to.

I asked her to call a 2nd dealer... well call you back with the estimate.... they never did.

I found a video on youtube with little details. But enough info that I said- Im doing it myself. Have a long weekend in case I run into trouble.
Went out and bought a Gates water pump and belt. Also bought 2 bottles of Dexcool 50/50 premixed coolant.
Total in parts was $113.99.

1st picture shows 1:22. Last picture when cleaning up timestamp 5:22
4 hours.. though I had visitors come by.... chatted a bit.
My 8 yr old also helped. He took parts and cleaned them. I also took the time to clean up the area around the water pump.

If I did this with out the chit chat- and extra cleaning.. - probably 1.5 to 2 hrs.
93,529 miles on engine.

Signs of a leak. under car. (never saw drops in driveway).



Signs of coolant being flung by the pulley



I lifted vehicle and placed 2 jacktands on each side.
Then removed the pass side wheel.
Put down plastic/tarp.
Then removed a small plastic shield in the wheel well area.
I then use my spring clamp tool to loosen the clamp and slide off the lower radiator hose.
(I didnt even bother with the drain valve).
Coolant was clean/clear





I proceeded to disconnect the connectors on the TB and MAF
Removed engine cover. Air filter cover, air tube, and 2 fasteners and the lower part of the air box comes out.




I then loosened 3 bolts on the motor mount piece (I marked them 1, 2, 3) . Just so I could put them back in the same spot.
I then took my jack- and a piece of 2x6 and placed it under the oil pan- and lightly raised the engine. Just enough to take the weight off the motor mount.
I then undid the 2 large nuts on the black mount shown below.
This assembly then lifts up.
Once this is out of the way- there are 2 large bolts holding the aluminum brace to the engine. I also numbered these 1- 2- 3. For my sanity. The brace can then be removed.



Once the brace is out of the way, I loosened the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley-- while the belt was still on.
I then used a ratchet and pipe to move the tensioner to one side to give the belt some slack and remove the serpentine belt.
Note that on the tensioners pulley- you will have to bend/turn the belt to get it between the pulley/engine cover.
Note-- that you may have to test several ratchets... as some have thick heads- and wont fit between the frame and tensioner. I luckily have 3 ratchets and one fit. ( or use a tensioner/belt tool).



I then proceeded to clean up the area.
Then I loosened the water pump bolts.
Place another container under this area. When you remove the water pump more coolant will spill out.
Then proceed to clean what was left of the gasket material.
I used several paper towels to absorb coolant that kept coming out.
Once it stopped- thats when I installed the pump.



I then reinstalled the pump. Using the NEW bolts included with pump.
I believe these are called torque to yield bolts.
There was also a bulletin released. Says to tighten the bolts in a particular sequence- @ 89 IN/lbs.
then go back and repeat. Then go back and turn each bolt an additional 45 degrees.
I also then used a watering can to to wash down the pulleys. Get the coolant off of them. didnt want coolant residue on the pulleys. Cleaned up the area in general.

I then used my air compressor to help blow off and dry the area.







the sequence.



Before the belt came off- I took pictures of the belt routing.
I ended up googling the 3.6 LFW, and found a picture of the belt routing.




then reinstall the parts.
For this- I do not have torque specs on these bolts. I did it by 'feel'-- if you know what I mean.
I raised the engine a bit to get the parts to be very close together and bolt right up.






reattach the air box and the 2 plugs that were removed.

Reconnect the lower rad hose. Reatach the small plastic shield.
I then put wheel back on.
Lower vehicle

Pour coolant into the reservoir until it stops dropping.
I then removed everything from under car and made sure I didnt leave tools in bay.
Restarted car.
In my case- my fans came on HIGH.
I know thats the result of me removing those connectors.
While the engine ran, I connected my scanner and pulled 2 pending codes...
P0113- Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high.
P2228- Barometric Pressure Circuit Low.

I cleared the codes. Restarted car. Fans were now off.
(Note that this also cleared all my Emissions readyness monitors. So if you you have a smog check due... youll have to wait till all tests have taken place).
Youll need an assortment of sockets. 10mm 18 mm. Some extensions too.
Sorry, I didnt write down which I used.
But they were all readily available in my tool set.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Colt Hero posted these steps to refilling the cooling system.


Well, I just looked in the Helm manual for my 3.0L V6 (LFW), and there's nothing earth-shattering in there. I also have just the "surge tank" on mine ... no radiator cap. The Manual just says:

(NOTE: I've trimmed this procedure from the Helm Manual for conciseness):

1.) Remove the cap from the Surge Tank, then raise the vehicle

2.) Drain coolant out the Drain Cockk (NOTE: others prefer to pull the lower radiator hose for fear of breaking the plastic Drain Cockk). Collect the coolant in a large drain pan.

3.) Inspect the coolant ... if "discolored", then perform a flush, otherwise just continue (to refill)

4.) Reinstall Drain Cockk to 2 Nm (18 lb in) ... (or reattach radiator hose), then lower the vehicle

5.) Fill the Surge Tank with 50/50 DEX-COOL/Water mix until the level reaches the base of the Surge Tank

6.) Wait 30 seconds for level to stabilize, then continue filling until the level stabilizes for at least 2 minutes

7.) Idle the engine in PARK or NEUTRAL (with Parking Brake engaged)

8.) Continue slowly filling the Surge Tank until the level stabilizes at the base of the tank.

9.) Re-install the pressure cap on the Surge Tank

10.) Raise engine RPM to 2500rpm for 30-40 seconds

11.) Shut the engine OFF

12.) Allow engine to cool

13.) Remove pressure cap and repeat steps 5-11 until coolant level has completely stabilized within the Surge Tank

14.) Use a Coolant and Battery Fluid Tester ("J 26568") to test the concentration of engine coolant

15.) Top off the Surge Tank if necessary, and always do a final inspection for leaks.
 

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2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L FWD 179k miles
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WOW, great pics, 5 stars plus.
We wouldn't expect anything less from rbarrios, now .. would we?

So - if rbarrios can do this job in two hours, a garage (with all their tools at the ready), should be able to do it in ...what .. one hour?

If so, then a dealer charge for this job should be something like $300-$400?

That sounds too cheap to me. Betcha there's a "book minimum" of two hours labor - which would run the tab all the way up to $500+ (for the V6).

====
Question for you, rbarrios: "reattach the air box and the two plugs that were removed"? Did you mean "fasteners"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
====
Question for you, rbarrios: "reattach the air box and the two plugs that were removed"? Did you mean "fasteners"?

the bottom if the air box is held in place by 2 bolts on one side- the other side slides into a large plastic pipe- this air pipe goes down and its where air is sucked in. there is also a rubber grommet on the bottom air box that pops into the sheetmetal. As youre reinstalling the box- it wont seat properly unless the pipe and grommet slide into place.



You then reinsert the air filter. Then put the top back on. You can reattach the air tube from the air box to the throttle body (tighten the 2 respective screws for the hose clamps).
Its up to you which order you want to screw down the screws to the air box top.

It may be easier to leave it loose. Re attach the air pipe to throttle body etc.. and then fasten down the top.

Then you can reconnect the 2 connector plugs. One for the Throttle body and one for the MAF


Hopefully that makes sense.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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2011 Equinox 1LT V6 3.0L FWD 179k miles
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No idea if it was on sale recently.


When I bought it- It would be used within days of arriving.

But one of the reasons I chose this one was, I looked at several and looked at the specs.
for the wrenches dimension. length and width.
I wanted one with the shortest handle because of the tight space around the transmission (when re attaching the Trans Control module). And it having a short handle was nice.
Turns out the markings are very nicely printed and the feel of adjusting is very smooth and precise.
if you scroll down and look at the marking- They are clear and sharp. Graduations are spot on when turning.



Ive seen other wrenches were the numbers are stamped into the metal and then chrome plated. You can barely read the numbers.
When you increase- the numbers and lines dont exactly line up.
 

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But one of the reasons I chose this one was, I looked at several and looked at the specs.
for the wrenches dimension. length and width.
I wanted one with the shortest handle because of the tight space around the transmission (when re attaching the Trans Control module). And it having a short handle was nice.
Turns out the markings are very nicely printed and the feel of adjusting is very smooth and precise.
if you scroll down and look at the marking- They are clear and sharp. Graduations are spot on when turning.



Ive seen other wrenches were the numbers are stamped into the metal and then chrome plated. You can barely read the numbers.
When you increase- the numbers and lines dont exactly line up.
The Harbor Fake Torque Wrench has the barely readable scale on it ... but what do you want for $10? LOL!

I bought the HF T/R out of anger when I discovered by beloved Craftsman had failed!! I always set my T/Rs down toward the bottom of the scale before putting them away, and one day I turned it the wrong way - off the scale. That was the end of it.
 

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Does anyone know if the V6 has the drain bolt on the water pump to completely drain all the fluid out of the block? Supposedly the I4 has one but I never did find it and had to do multiple drain and fills from the petcock to get the water to come out clear.
 

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Does anyone know if the V6 has the drain bolt on the water pump to completely drain all the fluid out of the block? Supposedly the I4 has one but I never did find it and had to do multiple drain and fills from the petcock to get the water to come out clear.
Nope, only the 2.4L has the drain bolt you are describing.
It's located on the water pump.

It only drains down to the water pump level, not the bottom of the block.
Pulling the lower radiator hose seems to be the prefered method, not perfect but it works.
 
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Yeah that was a couple of years ago on my I4 that I drained from the petcock, it was a PITA, and I will only do it from the hose from now on. I got to do the job again on a V6 coming up soon and was hoping there was a way to drain out the majority of the coolant in one go instead of only half like I was getting from the I4 from the petcock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does anyone know if the V6 has the drain bolt on the water pump to completely drain all the fluid out of the block? Supposedly the I4 has one but I never did find it and had to do multiple drain and fills from the petcock to get the water to come out clear.

nope.
I removed lower hose. drained a bunch of fluid.
But quite a bit remained in the block.
When I removed the water pump- a bunch of fluid came out.


I guess I could have only removed the water pump and had coolant come out of there.
But my coolant was due for a change due to age. so the more I got out the better.
 
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nope.
I removed lower hose. drained a bunch of fluid.
But quite a bit remained in the block.
When I removed the water pump- a bunch of fluid came out.
That's interesting, with the lower hose off you would think you would get almost all of it.
Maybe the closed thermostat was holding more in until you pulled the water pump.
V-6 coolant capacity is 10.8 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's interesting, with the lower hose off you would think you would get almost all of it.
Maybe the closed thermostat was holding more in until you pulled the water pump.
V-6 coolant capacity is 10.8 quarts.

yeah- I figured the closed thermostat.
 

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nope.
I removed lower hose. drained a bunch of fluid.
But quite a bit remained in the block.
When I removed the water pump- a bunch of fluid came out.
Did you measure how much total coolant you drained out?
 

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Looks like a pretty straightforward repair to have the dealer quote 10 times the cost of doing it yourself; even needing no specialty tools except a torque wrench.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you measure how much total coolant you drained out?



I refilled 2 of the Prestone jugs.

But I didnt fill them to the top.
Id say maybe 1.75 jugs.
Each bottle is 3.78L= 3.99 qts.


So I think I drained out about 6.9 qts.


Ill have to take a look at the bottles.
 

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Looks like a pretty straightforward repair to have the dealer quote 10 times the cost of doing it yourself; even needing no specialty tools except a torque wrench.

.
That 10x quote was for the I-4. The V6 dealer quote would’ve probably been 2 hours labor + parts, or $500-$600, I’m guessing? Still pretty high for what is a routine repair for any mechanic. An Independent mechanic probably does the job for $300-$400 where I am.
 
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