GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I have searched through several threads relating to my problem and have basically found the following:
1. It’s almost impossible to warp rotors
2. It’s not the rotors
3. If they are warped, they were not bedded in.

Yet, here I am. In November, I replaced all 4 rotors and pads. I immediately drove it and went through process of bedding in the pads. Spent about half an hour.

it was fine for a few weeks but then the vibration came back. Frustrated. Got a different rotor this time for the front and more pads. Installed them in January. Fine for a few weeks. Then the vibration came back.

Being more of a parts changer than a mechanic, I took it to a local garage that has a stellar reputation. I had not found any front end problems, wheel bearings, etc, that would contribute to the issue. They checked it and said they found no front end problems either. The rotors were indeed warped and pads looked good. Even though I knew it wouldn’t fix the problem, I had them turn the rotors.

knowing that the vibration will return soon, I’m at a loss as to what to do. I love the vehicle but this is ridiculous. I’ve done brakes many many times over the years and never had this problem.

My understanding is that heat causes a rotor to warp. If a caliper is not sticking then I can’t figure out the cause.

Any ideas????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
What brand of rotors are you using?
There are many brands and quality of brake rotors out there, some in the $40 to $50 range or less.
Even AC Delco makes four different quality choices.

Do some research and buy top quality parts, that has helped me out on problem vehicles more than a few times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
I had a similar issue and while it may not be your cause you may want to look into it.

I changed my brakes with good quality components because the pads were low and I was getting a little shake during braking. I have done a few brake jobs in my driveway and this went as well as expected. After a few weeks I felt the shaking in the steering wheel. I thought maybe I incorrectly torqued the wheels. So I took them off and retorqued again. Issue didn't go away. So I then thought about the slider pins sticking. So I re-lubed the slider pins. No good.

Eventually I took it to a shop and they found that the right front brake rotor had bad endface runout when mounted. They took the rotor off, there was a large size, but thin shaving of rust sitting on the face of the hub. So the rotor was effectively not sitting square on the hub. Unfortunately, because I drove it for a few weeks like this, the rotor got ruined because at high speed the caliper could not keep up with the oscillation generated high endface with the rotor mounted over the rust bits.

They took off both rotors, cleaned the hub face with a steel wool wheel on the dremel like tool. Installed new rotors (same pads could be used). Problem never came back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What brand of rotors are you using?
There are many brands and quality of brake rotors out there, some in the $40 to $50 range or less.
Even AC Delco makes four different quality choices.

Do some research and buy top quality parts, that has helped me out on problem vehicles more than a few times.
The first time I bought Detroit Diesel brand, I think. The second time was TRQ from 1aauto. I have used this brand several times with great results. They were about $100.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a similar issue and while it may not be your cause you may want to look into it.

I changed my brakes with good quality components because the pads were low and I was getting a little shake during braking. I have done a few brake jobs in my driveway and this went as well as expected. After a few weeks I felt the shaking in the steering wheel. I thought maybe I incorrectly torqued the wheels. So I took them off and retorqued again. Issue didn't go away. So I then thought about the slider pins sticking. So I re-lubed the slider pins. No good.

Eventually I took it to a shop and they found that the right front brake rotor had bad endface runout when mounted. They took the rotor off, there was a large size, but thin shaving of rust sitting on the face of the hub. So the rotor was effectively not sitting square on the hub. Unfortunately, because I drove it for a few weeks like this, the rotor got ruined because at high speed the caliper could not keep up with the oscillation generated high endface with the rotor mounted over the rust bits.

They took off both rotors, cleaned the hub face with a steel wool wheel on the dremel like tool. Installed new rotors (same pads could be used). Problem never came back.
Tygriff,

that is very helpful. When I removed the rotors initially, there was a massive amount of rust that came out. Literally there was a pile on the floor and inch and a half or 2 inches high under each rotor when I removed them. They were very hard to get off. I did some sanding at that point but I may go back and check it again. What you are describing makes perfect sense. Thank you again for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
I’ve warped my rotors every 30k miles or so since I bought my Equinox new. I’m at 141K miles and it seems I need to do it again too. I just kept resurfacing the stock rotors and then around the 100K mark, decided to try a set of PowerStop rotors. I’ve now managed to warp them too...I’ll yank them off, have them turned, and keep going again...

...maybe if I didn’t drive like every stop light is a drag strip, it’d stop 🤔😝
 
  • Like
Reactions: Crankme69

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ve warped my rotors every 30k miles or so since I bought my Equinox new. I’m at 141K miles and it seems I need to do it again too. I just kept resurfacing the stock rotors and then around the 100K mark, decided to try a set of PowerStop rotors. I’ve now managed to warp them too...I’ll yank them off, have them turned, and keep going again...

...maybe if I didn’t drive like every stop light is a drag strip, it’d stop 🤔😝
Sounds like my situation. There has to be reason. It’s just not normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
The original front rotors on my Equinox were replaced by the dealer under warranty at 30,000 miles due to vibration. Pads were fine. They attempted to turn the rotors, but after turning them they were below allowable thickness so they simply put new ones on and charged GM.

The vibration was back by the time I hit 52,000 miles, plus the pads needed to be done. Dealer replaced all 4 rotors and all pads with ACDelco "Advantage" parts. I hope to trade the vehicle before needing to get brake work done again.

All GM vehicles I have owned over the past 30 years have had rotor issues, specifically "warping".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The original front rotors on my Equinox were replaced by the dealer under warranty at 30,000 miles due to vibration. Pads were fine. They attempted to turn the rotors, but after turning them they were below allowable thickness so they simply put new ones on and charged GM.

The vibration was back by the time I hit 52,000 miles, plus the pads needed to be done. Dealer replaced all 4 rotors and all pads with ACDelco "Advantage" parts. I hope to trade the vehicle before needing to get brake work done again.

All GM vehicles I have owned over the past 30 years have had rotor issues, specifically "warping".
Good to know. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
All GM vehicles I have owned over the past 30 years have had rotor issues, specifically "warping".
...that’s actually been my experience too...I just figured it was my driving style...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
I've been driving only GM vehicles for around 50 years. Never warped a rotor.

The wife, on the other hand, warps hers often. I lost count how many rotors got replaced on a couple of her previous cars, a '78 Pontiact Trans Am and a '99 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Between the TA and GP she had a sleeper, but appropriate for transporting young children. Except for when she drove the sleeper, she has always tended to drive like she was participating in a Grand Prix street race.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've been driving only GM vehicles for around 50 years. Never warped a rotor.

The wife, on the other hand, warps hers often. I lost count how many rotors got replaced on a couple of her previous cars, a '78 Pontiact Trans Am and a '99 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Between the TA and GP she had a sleeper, but appropriate for transporting young children. Except for when she drove the sleeper, she has always tended to drive like she was participating in a Grand Prix street race.
Under those conditions I can understand getting warped rotors. But we are in our 50s and drive like we are in our 70s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
Equinox/Terrain brakes have very few complaints, even for people that tow.
Something is not right, the calipers, pins, and pads have been replaced numerous times maybe the booster or master cylinder is hanging up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Equinox/Terrain brakes have very few complaints, even for people that tow.
Something is not right, the calipers, pins, and pads have been replaced numerous times maybe the booster or master cylinder is hanging up.
Thanks for the idea. I’ll take a look at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
I've been driving only GM vehicles for around 50 years. Never warped a rotor.

The wife, on the other hand, warps hers often. I lost count how many rotors got replaced on a couple of her previous cars, a '78 Pontiact Trans Am and a '99 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Between the TA and GP she had a sleeper, but appropriate for transporting young children. Except for when she drove the sleeper, she has always tended to drive like she was participating in a Grand Prix street race.
I am definitely not hard on brakes. In the case of my Equinox, when the first set of front rotors were replaced at 30,000 miles, the dealer noted that the pads were in perfect shape. When I had the rotors looked at again at 52,000 miles, the dealer noted the rotors were warped but the pads could have gone another 5,000 miles. They also said getting 52,000 miles out of original brake pads on an Equinox was rare in their experience, let alone being able to go 60,000. I elected to get the rotors and pads replaced because it was approaching winter and I didn't want to have to go back again in the dead of winter for new pads.

With my 2006 Impala, all four rotors were warped at about 32,000 miles. The dealer refused to cover them under warranty even though there was a TSB that explicitly said turning the brake rotors was covered under the 3yr/36K mile warranty. They turned the rotors (at my expense), but left the original pads. When I traded the Impala with 60,000 miles on it, the front rotors were showing signs of being warped again but it still had the original brake pads.

On my 1999 Camaro, the front rotors were warped at only 9,000 miles. The dealer said it was a common problem and replaced them under warranty. I traded the Camaro with only 27,000 miles on it, but the front brake rotors were showing signs of being warped again when I traded it.

I also had a 1988 Chevy Beretta, a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am, and a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix. They all had brake issues of some sort.

None of the Chrysler, Ford, or VW products I have owned had rotor/pad issues.

The Hyundai I owned for 5 years, however, had the most brake rotor problems of any vehicle I have ever owned. It must have gone through at least 3 sets of front rotors during the 75,000 miles I owned it.

I think the issue is with dealers using an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts. They should use a torque wrench, but in the interest of time they just spin them on with the air gun. You know when they are using the same air gun on an Equinox, a SIlverado, and a Cruze they are not setting the torque to the proper setting. Just leaving it at whatever setting and potentially over tightening them. That causes more issues than anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,505 Posts
I thought that these days, when shops used an air gun on lugnuts, they also used torque sticks when then didn't require a torque wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
...just thinking out loud...I don’t like automatic car washes. Depending on how open your wheels are, I’ve never thought it was a good idea to spay water on a hot brake rotor...When you’re driving in the rain, the tires are splashing the water away from the rotors, but when you arrive at the car wash, the water squirts right onto the rotor...99% of the time, I hand wash my cars in the driveway after the rotors have cooled...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
I thought that these days, when shops used an air gun on lugnuts, they also used torque sticks when then didn't require a torque wrench.
Last time I had my car serviced, I watched the technician through the window that lets waiting customers see in the garage. They used an impact wrench to remove the lugnuts, rotated the tires, then used the impact wrench to put the lug nuts back on. The technician next to him then used the same impact wrench on an Impala to do the same. There was no torque stick or torque limiting extension on the gun. The lug nut torque spec for the Equinox is 140lbs, the Impala is 110lbs. Very different.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top